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MEP-80X Blow by
- Thread starter jimbo913
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Don't know if you have mud wasps where you are, but they will fill that drain port unless you block it when not in use.
That photo was after installing the fitting and prior to oil change. This is what it looks like until I buy some rubber hose and a plug.
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2Pbfeet
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Thanks, the uploaded photos seem to be lower resolution. Piston and bottom of the cylinder looks good. I think it just needs broken in.
Found these two issues. Quite sure everyone experiences the fuel hose issue, I don’t know why they install the wire ties so darn tight. I think the electrical wires were routed incorrectly and rubbed the radiator hose. Probably fine but not worth the risk of failure when I start running it hard and I don’t want to babysit the thing.
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I do have clips available. We can discuss by PM if you want.
Thanks, PM sent
I am planning to use an old stove as my load bank. I have a 30A 240v power cord that I will wire up. The plan is to run just the oven (door opened) and see what the load is and if necessary I can turn on/off a small burner as needed to hopefully work in the 75-100% operating range.
I finally got a decent weather day to wire up the stove and give the generator a 6hr shakedown. It didn’t like brief 100% loads very much but it was doing a little better at the end compared to when I started.
I ran the oven on 400f, which put the base load around 55%, and I turned on two small burners which would kick on/off and jump the load up to 70% with one kicking on and 90% with both kicking on. Finished the test with no leaks or other issues besides vibration of trailer components, some of which I will remove. The 802 really shakes compared to the 803.
At 70% load I measured 17.7A on one leg and 11.55A on the other, which is about 3510 watts or 70% of 5000w. I will definitely have to be careful with circuit loads per leg, but this is mainly a nighttime / backup generator to my 803, which is overkill during nighttime.
I still see blow by when I pull the dipstick but I will keep breaking it in whenever I can to see if it improves. After the shakedown I feel more comfortable knowing that I could run it if needed for house power generation.
I ran the oven on 400f, which put the base load around 55%, and I turned on two small burners which would kick on/off and jump the load up to 70% with one kicking on and 90% with both kicking on. Finished the test with no leaks or other issues besides vibration of trailer components, some of which I will remove. The 802 really shakes compared to the 803.
At 70% load I measured 17.7A on one leg and 11.55A on the other, which is about 3510 watts or 70% of 5000w. I will definitely have to be careful with circuit loads per leg, but this is mainly a nighttime / backup generator to my 803, which is overkill during nighttime.
I still see blow by when I pull the dipstick but I will keep breaking it in whenever I can to see if it improves. After the shakedown I feel more comfortable knowing that I could run it if needed for house power generation.
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It’s touching 60F today and I had some wrenching to do outside so I figured it was a great day to resume operation break-in.
Right away I noticed that it’s handling the couple second spikes to 100% much better. I am going to try and post a video of the droop I am noticing to see if it’s normal. At 50% load the hz are 60.25. At 75% the Hz are at 59.5 and 100% is in the photo (58.5). If I can’t get the video to post I will post a snapshot from the video.
Right away I noticed that it’s handling the couple second spikes to 100% much better. I am going to try and post a video of the droop I am noticing to see if it’s normal. At 50% load the hz are 60.25. At 75% the Hz are at 59.5 and 100% is in the photo (58.5). If I can’t get the video to post I will post a snapshot from the video.
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Where does everyone run their no load Hz on the 802A.
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- Efland, NC
Your no load RPM should be set around 61.5hz. That should give you near 60hz at full load.
Then my genset is a bit weak. At 75% with resistance load its at 59Hz from a no load of 61.5Hz
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If it makes rated power, its working just fine. You may just have a slightly weaker governor tension spring. You could fiddle with the droop adjustment too, but I wouldn't. I'd just get the load to where you plan on running it and compensate as needed. They aren't race cars.
- 2,532
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How are you measuring load? With an amp meter or using the onboard load meter?
- 2,532
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- Efland, NC
Noticed in the photos that your temperature gauge is way low. You should see it up around 180-190 when its up to temp and loaded.
Is the gauge reading correctly? I looked back through this thread but I didn't see any mention of it running cold. If its really that cold its problematic. Diesels don't like that.
Is the gauge reading correctly? I looked back through this thread but I didn't see any mention of it running cold. If its really that cold its problematic. Diesels don't like that.
Good
Good eye. Yes, it runs on the cold side according to the gauge and my assumption is that it is a faulty gauge. What else could it be besides the gauge and is there an easy location to obtain another reading?
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Could be a stuck thermostat. I'd suggest troubleshooting that and find out if the gauge is correct or not.
I did touch the upper radiator hose today after 2hrs at load and it was hot but I could touch it without getting burned so after reading that the thermostats are either 165 or 190 (seen both listed as replacements), it seems as though my unit may be missing the thermostat or it’s stuck open. I will lookup numbers to figure out the correct temp thermostat and just replace it or add it. Hopefully I can find one locally.