CUCV Heaven, My build of a 1009 and 1008

[WWRD99]

I think it fell off. That would take great effort to get up there and hold the nuts while untightening the bolts. As I recall they came OEM with 5/16" fine thread bolts with a star washer. Not to start controversy but a friend of mine lost a license plate off the front of his truck and assumed someone had stolen it and he had it bolted on with 1/4" bolts. I was cutting firewood on his farm and found the license plate laying in the field. 1 bolt was laying 2 feet from the plate. I reinstalled the license plate on his truck and used nylok nuts and it is still there to this day. Just saying. Happy Holidays.

Yeah someone really wanted it bad! I bolted it on there with 3/8 ×16 grade 8 bolts with a lock washer and got them very tight. His truck didn't come with one but I found one on marketplace. We're gonna weld the nuts on the new one.

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[cucvrus]

Yeah someone really wanted it bad! I bolted it on there with 3/8 ×16 grade 8 bolts with a lock washer and got them very tight. His truck didn't come with one but I found one on marketplace. We're gonna weld the nuts on the new one.

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Just use lock nuts the crimped type. I took them off many times they are not as easy as a few bolts. Where would it sit to allow time to remove it?

 

[WWRD99]

Just use lock nuts the crimped type. I took them off many times they are not as easy as a few bolts. Where would it sit to allow time to remove it?

We're guessing school...he parks in the back since he's a night student. Work is wide open with cameras so we don't think there. Hoping some kid drives in with it mounted to his truck. They can be that stupid.

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[WWRD99]

Ok so the last few weeks we've been fighting the return lines blowing off the injectors. I had the braided 3.5mm hose and 6.5mm clamps that didn't work. Then I found a dorman kit that had the 3.5mm hose non braided and 6mm clamps. Nothing held. So off the the kiss world and had him check the return line going to the tank. Turned out when he put the tank in he pinched the hose on the frame...so the return was blocked....ugh. So now he has the new hoses and clamps on it and it's running great. He got the parking brake cables all hooked up today too. Tomorrow should be a good day.

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[87cr250r]

You found the cause of your problem but for everybody else, use Viton tubing from an industrial supply house. The original tubing was Viton but most of the aftermarket stuff isn't. The aftermarket tubing will be hard and full of cracks after a year or two of daily driving. With good quality Viton tubing you don't need the clamps which simplifies everything.

 

[WWRD99]

You found the cause of your problem but for everybody else, use Viton tubing from an industrial supply house. The original tubing was Viton but most of the aftermarket stuff isn't. The aftermarket tubing will be hard and full of cracks after a year or two of daily driving. With good quality Viton tubing you don't need the clamps which simplifies everything.

Yeah it was frustrating not thinking the new tank and lines that the return got pinched going in. The kit I got is called FKM which from what I can find is decent stuff...some searches said it was the actual material Viton is named after but not 100% sure. My son can replace them in about 20 minutes since he can contort himself in ways I can't anymore!! The tm called and used the clamps 11663000 which I found but nothing local unfortunately. The contitech 3.5mm braided line is what I wanted to use with the 6.5mm clamps but gave up on it thinking the clamping force wasn't enough. I haven't had this return line problem before but if I do I'll be running an air check into the line for obstructions pretty quick!

 

[87cr250r]

FKM is the generic name for Viton.

 

[WWRD99]

FKM is the generic name for Viton.

Oh that's great news then!! I really didn't know. So that kit is actually a decent one then. Advance auto for the win there...I really was not expecting much for 20$.

 

[WWRD99]

Alternator rebuild day for the 1009. Unfortunately one of the rear bearings got damaged so I won't get both done tonight. These are easy and fairly inexpensive to do plus I get to keep the made in USA cases and internals. Got new fans for this set.

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[WWRD99]

So someone got something for his 1009 the other day. The funny story was 2 falls ago. I ordered the tag m1009...state said it was available and ready to go. I hit the notary and waited 3 months only to have it denied. That summer we're out looking at a local surplus guys stuff only to find that very tag on the back of a 1009...we both laughed a ton now knowing why it got denied. It hadn't been registered in a long time so the computer didn't pick it up.

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[WWRD99]

Ok so I got a question about the horn wiring. I was driving the other day and the horn blew for a second, then stopped, but then the horn button didn't work. Came home and found the horn fuse blown. Pop a new fuse in and turn on the blackout switch and the horn blows! Removed the relay and the horn still blows! So I found a diode right at the horn relay plug that had failed for some reason. It's way up on a short harness so I'd have to remove the fuse box to really get to it to replace it. I cut it and now the horn works normal. The diode goes from the fused power to the horn so its a bypass of the relay. I have no idea why there would be that on there other than some kind of radio interference possibly? I'm not going to replace it. The second thing that hit at the same time was the rear brake light bulbs burned out...turn signals wouldn't flash right. Very dim and slow. Replaced the bulbs but it still wasn't right on the dash. You all know that one ground under the dash that goes next to the parking brake...well I tested it at the firewall and had very low resistance...thought that was ok but I still wasn't getting the correct ground to the relays or the dash. Pulled some tape and found a bad crimp connector...it was warm!...ugh...so I fixed that and now everything works. That ground does a ton of stuff inside the truck. I think I'm gonna do more tape pulling and make sure the splice is good where all those grounds come together.
Any ideas on that diode throw them up!

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[Mullaney]

Ok so I got a question about the horn wiring. I was driving the other day and the horn blew for a second, then stopped, but then the horn button didn't work. Came home and found the horn fuse blown. Pop a new fuse in and turn on the blackout switch and the horn blows! Removed the relay and the horn still blows! So I found a diode right at the horn relay plug that had failed for some reason. It's way up on a short harness so I'd have to remove the fuse box to really get to it to replace it. I cut it and now the horn works normal. The diode goes from the fused power to the horn so its a bypass of the relay. I have no idea why there would be that on there other than some kind of radio interference possibly? I'm not going to replace it. The second thing that hit at the same time was the rear brake light bulbs burned out...turn signals wouldn't flash right. Very dim and slow. Replaced the bulbs but it still wasn't right on the dash. You all know that one ground under the dash that goes next to the parking brake...well I tested it at the firewall and had very low resistance...thought that was ok but I still wasn't getting the correct ground to the relays or the dash. Pulled some tape and found a bad crimp connector...it was warm!...ugh...so I fixed that and now everything works. That ground does a ton of stuff inside the truck. I think I'm gonna do more tape pulling and make sure the splice is good where all those grounds come together.
Any ideas on that diode throw them up!

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My best guess is that the wire that runs down through the column has rubbed itself bare somewhere along the way. Attach a new piece of 14ga to the old wire and pull it out through the bottom of the column, then thread it to where it touches the wiring harness.

 

[87cr250r]

It's called a flyback diode. When the coil in the relay is de-energized it creates a reverse voltage spike which causes an arc across the contacts that control the relay. The flyback diode shorts the reverse voltage to prolong the life of the contact

With that said, all of these flyback diodes fail on these trucks. It usually causes the horn to stick on. The contacts in the horn button are robust. Cut the diode out and carry on.

 

[adf5565]

I'm pretty sure one of the first things I did after purchasing my m1008 was removing that diode as my horn would blow constantly like yours.

 

[WWRD99]

It's called a flyback diode. When the coil in the relay is de-energized it creates a reverse voltage spike which causes an arc across the contacts that control the relay. The flyback diode shorts the reverse voltage to prolong the life of the contact

With that said, all of these flyback diodes fail on these trucks. It usually causes the horn to stick on. The contacts in the horn button are robust. Cut the diode out and carry on.

Ahhhhh that makes perfect sense it just didn't click until you said that. The relays that are 4 prong have that built in. I'll pin a jumper wire in it and call it a day.

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[87cr250r]

You don't want a jumper, that would be a dead short. Just remove the flyback diode. If you want a flyback diode buy one with a higher reverse voltage rating. It's most likely a 1N4000 series. 1N4001 has the lowest voltage rating. 1N4007 is the highest. Make sure what you get is higher than what it replaces.

 

[WWRD99]

You don't want a jumper, that would be a dead short. Just remove the flyback diode. If you want a flyback diode buy one with a higher reverse voltage rating. It's most likely a 1N4000 series. 1N4001 has the lowest voltage rating. 1N4007 is the highest. Make sure what you get is higher than what it replaces.

Yup that would be a quick spark.. wasn't thinking...if I do anything I'll wire up a 4 pin relay...be nice if I could find a male connector to plug into the harness but not 100% needed.

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[WWRD99]

Had fun digging through all the surplus stuff today getting ready for spring Carlisle. I found 3 of these little gems for the drivers rear head. Nice that it comes with the harness adapter and directions. I think one of these is getting put in now too. New steering wheel and return lines look great in this 1009.

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[WWRD99]

Ok so the day has finally come after over a year of my son working on his second blazer. It's on the road! Had a glitch with the power steering pump going out after 5 miles but other than that it's all painted up nice. I replaced all the light sockets with new ones and put new lenses on the brakes. Popped the top off and it's a blast to drive. The plan is he drive this one while he works on his other. Wants to replace the rear floor and mount a safe in the back for radio stuff. He's got a 524 and a 442 radio for it.
First pic is of the power steering leaking everywhere.
Gotta thank a certain guy @cucvrus for the incredible paint!! It worked great and should last a long time.

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[WWRD99]

Been fighting my glows, if the truck sits for about an hour after I drive it up to operating temp. Even replaced the stock temp sensor with a nos one to turn on the glows for a few seconds so it starts easy...but it still won't. So I did a thing that isn't stock but I hid it pretty good in the ash tray. Did the manual ground for the relay just to give me glows when it just needs a 5 second heat up. I'll only use it when it sits for that hour though. Card still works great for everything else. I ended up pulling the ash tray out of my parts cab out back for the springs and found a switch in it ready for me to use. So it was a free mod. I like the lug nut washer they used to make it fit. I'll put the proper back probed fitting on the box now that I know it works too...can't stand those scotch locks but that's how they wired it in the cab...no way it worked in that anyhow since they poked the wrong wire.

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