M1009 No Crank

[Wagner]

Day 1, replaced 1 battery with a new one and CUCV started up ran & drove. Day 2, engine would not crank at all and electrical smelling smoke appeared from under the hood. Upon visual inspection I did not see anything wrong with the wiring & the glow plug relay was not hot. Puzzled as to why it would start and run fine 1 day but not the next?

 

[WWRD99]

Day 1, replaced 1 battery with a new one and CUCV started up ran & drove. Day 2, engine would not crank at all and electrical smelling smoke appeared from under the hood. Upon visual inspection I did not see anything wrong with the wiring & the glow plug relay was not hot. Puzzled as to why it would start and run fine 1 day but not the next?

Which battery did you replace? Front or rear? The rear one gives you the 12 volt feed for the fuse box and ignition switch. Could be you burned the fusible link from the rear battery.

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[Barrman]

The battery closest to the headlight on a stock CUCV is the battery that provides the 12 volts to run the basic Chevy stuff. Here is a video about it:

I would suggest checking the voltage on both batteries separately. If they both have 12.6 or so volts then move onto the battery terminals and their tightness.

There is a 10 gauge red wire coming off the negative terminal of the rear battery. That is the 12 volt positive source to the truck. Follow that wire across the top of the firewall over to the diamond shaped engine harness buss. Verify 12.6 volts on both studs of that junction. The 10 gauge red wire already described has a fusible link at the diamond shaped buss. They burn up sometimes.

 

[Curtisje]

And just in case your wondering what a fusible link is:

An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge (AWG) sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.

 

[Wagner]

Which battery did you replace? Front or rear? The rear one gives you the 12 volt feed for the fuse box and ignition switch. Could be you burned the fusible link from the rear battery.

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Replaced the rear battery as the front battery charged up to 100%. where is the fusible link for the rear battery & what would make it go out?

 

[Wagner]

Replaced the rear battery as the front battery charged up to 100%. where is the fusible link for the rear battery & what would make it go out?

PS: The resister on my M1009 has been by-passed earlier because it had failed, resulting in 24v going to the glow plug relay and burning out my glow plugs.

 

[Wagner]

The battery closest to the headlight on a stock CUCV is the battery that provides the 12 volts to run the basic Chevy stuff. Here is a video about it:

I would suggest checking the voltage on both batteries separately. If they both have 12.6 or so volts then move onto the battery terminals and their tightness.

There is a 10 gauge red wire coming off the negative terminal of the rear battery. That is the 12 volt positive source to the truck. Follow that wire across the top of the firewall over to the diamond shaped engine harness buss. Verify 12.6 volts on both studs of that junction. The 10 gauge red wire already described has a fusible link at the diamond shaped buss. They burn up sometimes.

Very good video, thank you. I previously watched 1 of his videos on the Doghead relay modification, though I have not as yet did that on my M1009.

 

[WWRD99]

Replaced the rear battery as the front battery charged up to 100%. where is the fusible link for the rear battery & what would make it go out?

Ok. The rear one wouldn't effect that fusible link since the power comes from the front battery. Fusible links are a fuse so there's a short after it or the trucks pulling to much power.

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[Barrman]

Here is another video on the same theme:

 

[Wagner]

I checked the battery voltages: Old (front) battery was 12.51 volts; the new back battery was only 5.5 volts. I do not know what drove the new battery's voltage down so much. The fusible link that's fed from the back battery and goes across the top of the fire wall looks as though it may be compromised as there is a small spot where the insulation is missing and the bare wire is visible.

 

[Sezzo]

Here is another video on the same theme:

Great Videos @Barrman

 

[Barrman]

Take the terminals off the discharged battery and charge it. Once charged, leave it disconnected and see if it will hold voltage. Once it does that hook it back up and then test hours or a day later.

 

[Wagner]

Take the terminals off the discharged battery and charge it. Once charged, leave it disconnected and see if it will hold voltage. Once it does that hook it back up and then test hours or a day later.

 

[WWRD99]

I checked the battery voltages: Old (front) battery was 12.51 volts; the new back battery was only 5.5 volts. I do not know what drove the new battery's voltage down so much. The fusible link that's fed from the back battery and goes across the top of the fire wall looks as though it may be compromised as there is a small spot where the insulation is missing and the bare wire is visible.

Ok if that battery drained down like that I'd be checking the alt relay next to your starter relay under the dash...could be stuck on...or unplug the passenger side alternator as it could be pulling from there. With it drained that low something is pulling from it.

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[Wagner]

Brand new battery will not take a charge and is toast. Some thing evidently shorted it out to the point it is ruined. I not sure if NAPA will take it back.

 

[Mullaney]

Brand new battery will not take a charge and is toast. Some thing evidently shorted it out to the point it is ruined. I not sure if NAPA will take it back.

.
I would take it back.
Can't imagine them not taking it back - unless there is obvious damage

 

[HelluvaEngineer]

That's unfortunate. A lot of these batteries are being manufactured in China and the failure rates are very high.

 

[Wagner]

Ok if that battery drained down like that I'd be checking the alt relay next to your starter relay under the dash...could be stuck on...or unplug the passenger side alternator as it could be pulling from there. With it drained that low something is pulling from it.

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[/QUOT

I upgraded the starter relay with the "Doghead" modification, Refabricated the fusible link across the top of the firewall, completely disconnected the 24v resisters which had been bypassed previously, from the 24v system, replaced the failed battery, all of the voltages checked out fine, and the M1009 fired right up and ran great with no smoking from the electrical system.

Thank you to everyone sent me comments, it helped out me tremendously.

 

[Wagner]

NA

.
I would take it back.
Can't imagine them not taking it back - unless there is obvious damage

NAPA took back the battery and gave me a new one.

 

[WWRD99]

Sounds like you just got a crappy battery! It happens. I've gotten in the habit to slow charge every new battery I get for a few days. Is it charging normal now that it's running ok? Tidbit on the doghead...it can melt on too. I've got one I had to rip the hot side off of when it did.

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