-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
802A engine fuel pump
- Thread starter 91X15R
- Start date
- 3,827
- 5,934
- 113
- Location
- MA
Does your machine have the square Facet style, or the round Airtex style?
- 3,827
- 5,934
- 113
- Location
- MA
Heres what the TM comes back to: MPN 40193
- 3,827
- 5,934
- 113
- Location
- MA
It will come back to the square style Facet with that number: https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep802a-mep803a-new-24v-fuel-pump-facet-40193/
Don't use it, unless you have to. They are a notoriously failure prone pump. The Airtex E1074 is discontinued (the round style). I and other have used Airtex generics in its place (with a little wire jumping, no big deal). E8135, 8131... if memory serves. If you do some searching in the forum, you will find what you need.
If you have the square, there is a little fab work to make the round work... nothing crazy, but the round has a few little extra rigid fuel lines. Searching will show you the difference.
Don't use it, unless you have to. They are a notoriously failure prone pump. The Airtex E1074 is discontinued (the round style). I and other have used Airtex generics in its place (with a little wire jumping, no big deal). E8135, 8131... if memory serves. If you do some searching in the forum, you will find what you need.
If you have the square, there is a little fab work to make the round work... nothing crazy, but the round has a few little extra rigid fuel lines. Searching will show you the difference.
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
I have a few NOS of the square ones and multiple options for the round type ones if the electric pump is what you're looking for.
Honestly, I have seen both fail about the same. The square ones seem to fail more simply because they're all older, so older stuff fails more often. But new ones tend do be fine. I personally replace with whatever will be the easiest to put back in, but that is me!
Honestly, I have seen both fail about the same. The square ones seem to fail more simply because they're all older, so older stuff fails more often. But new ones tend do be fine. I personally replace with whatever will be the easiest to put back in, but that is me!
- 3,827
- 5,934
- 113
- Location
- MA
In a pinch you can steal the auxilliary fuel pump behind the fuel tank cover, and use in place of the primary.
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
Oh I know that, much easier to swap with one on the shelf that fits right in place, or a CHINA copy to make things quick. Just had to do it a few days ago actually as a round one with 31 hours on it died.
- 3,827
- 5,934
- 113
- Location
- MA
I know you knew that, it was for the OP (or anyone else who stumbles into this thread in the future).
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,592
- 5,907
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Careful with the $25 China pumps. I used a couple of them and none lasted very long, so keep another spare on hand at all times.
the universal Airtex pumps are much more reliable and not very much more money, if you can find them in stock.
the universal Airtex pumps are much more reliable and not very much more money, if you can find them in stock.
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
Gee whiz, I feel like an idiot. Can you tell it was a long day? Someone sent me a DM and when I tapped that e-mail, I guess I fat fingered it & opened your reply notification e-mail instead. Or, something like that. So, my brain defaulted to my original task & ignored that I was replying to a thread instead of a DM. I'll go stand in the corner for a bit everyone.....
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
I'm not sure the brand I got a bunch of to be honest. I assumed they were CHINA made, but maybe not. They're ~$50.
Looked it up before posting. I got a bunch of Carter branded ones that are USA origin apparently.
- 16,763
- 24,068
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
CMC wrote:
Honestly, I have seen both fail about the same. The square ones seem to fail more simply because they're all older, so older stuff fails more often. But new ones tend do be fine. I personally replace with whatever will be the easiest to put back in, but that is me!
In fact, the Army had so many problems with the OEM fuel pump, that they went to the newer round type. That involved a parts kit, with more parts to install, to mount the newer pumps.
Buy cheap, buy twice.
Honestly, I have seen both fail about the same. The square ones seem to fail more simply because they're all older, so older stuff fails more often. But new ones tend do be fine. I personally replace with whatever will be the easiest to put back in, but that is me!
In fact, the Army had so many problems with the OEM fuel pump, that they went to the newer round type. That involved a parts kit, with more parts to install, to mount the newer pumps.
Buy cheap, buy twice.
Dewie38
Active member
- 152
- 189
- 43
- Location
- Milford Ct
It was found that upon shutdown the pump would drain of fuel become air bound and not re-prime and burn out.
I would not use a facet pump only Airtex. But Guy is right you need some modifications made to the piping.
I would not use a facet pump only Airtex. But Guy is right you need some modifications made to the piping.
- 16,763
- 24,068
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
I might still have the parts list to the kit. Have to look.
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,592
- 5,907
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Modifications depend on which airtex you use. The E1074 with the welded on 90* end fitting requires the supply pipe extension, which is a piece of 1/4" tube about 4" long with female JIC fittings on the ends. This is needed to convert from the Facet cube pump to the E1074.
You can use steel brake line and make your own, you just need the female JIC nuts and tube sleeves.
Note: a normal hand held flaring tool will make a 45* SAE flare. The AN / JIC fittings are 37* flares, but given the very low pressure in the fuel system they will still seal perfectly fine. If you use CU/Ni brake line the flare angle will conform to the fitting angle even better than steel.
If you use the universal Airtex E8031 , or any other in-line pump like the Carter, China etc. you can reuse the old 90* fittings off the Facet , mount the pump upside down so the hoses will reach and use it without any other mods, just keep an eye on the pump's direction of flow.
You can also make it fit "better" by using 90* NPT fittings off the pump, then add a 45* NPT X AN/JIC adapter ( don't remember if it's a -3 or a -4 ) to put the lines on a 45* downward angle.
Remember to clean and reuse or replace the factory fuel strainer mounted on the infeed side of the pump. It's just a mesh strainer, so it can easily be back flushed with carb cleaner.
You can use steel brake line and make your own, you just need the female JIC nuts and tube sleeves.
Note: a normal hand held flaring tool will make a 45* SAE flare. The AN / JIC fittings are 37* flares, but given the very low pressure in the fuel system they will still seal perfectly fine. If you use CU/Ni brake line the flare angle will conform to the fitting angle even better than steel.
If you use the universal Airtex E8031 , or any other in-line pump like the Carter, China etc. you can reuse the old 90* fittings off the Facet , mount the pump upside down so the hoses will reach and use it without any other mods, just keep an eye on the pump's direction of flow.
You can also make it fit "better" by using 90* NPT fittings off the pump, then add a 45* NPT X AN/JIC adapter ( don't remember if it's a -3 or a -4 ) to put the lines on a 45* downward angle.
Remember to clean and reuse or replace the factory fuel strainer mounted on the infeed side of the pump. It's just a mesh strainer, so it can easily be back flushed with carb cleaner.