• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

A/C valve replacement, need cold air please!

taskunitbruiser

Active member
111
51
28
Location
Alabama
I wasn't finding anything useful on YouTube and searches on here did not help much either. While I have fairly decent mechanic skills and a few good tools, I am pretty clueless when it comes to A/C systems on cars (successfully replaced capacitor on home A/C before! haha). I need help.

When I bought my M1151A1 (factory equipped A/C) it blew cold air in the back (i.e. box between rear seats) and hot air up front. I deduced I likely had proper refrigerant levels, etc since I was getting cold air in the back. It may just be a separate system however, yet I get cold air "leak" out of the plastic housing on the passenger side front. I have no gauges to test anything. Mike at Black Dog told me Humvees have some thermal expansion type ball under the hood to select between heat and cold if I remember correctly. So, the engine coolant was heating up my nice cold air, simply overwhelming it. There is no rear heat in my HMMWV, just a/c. My father in law drives big rigs and says those trucks have a manual selector between heat and a/c under the hood; in other words, find out what you need before you start driving.

Mike said this ball falls and if you replace it it will fail again in 6 months. The solution is to put a manual valve to replace it. Has anyone here done this? More recently, my rear a/c box quit blowing air (i.e. no airflow [more problems]) but I get great heat up front, so fan is working there. Can someone tell me where this selector ball is, where to cut it out, and what type of valve to get for replacement? Again, not to be verbose, but I just don't know much about a/c's and have yet to find where this part is located. The TMs I looked at do not cover A/c, but maybe I missed one that does.

Can this be replaced without recharging the system? How big of a project will this be?
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,931
9,592
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Many have installed a manual valve, no need to disturb the AC at all, it is in the hoses in front of the engine side of the fire wall on the passenger side, If it were me I would just use an earlier version valve which is cable controlled or can be switched manually under the hood.
 

HoveringHMMWV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
481
1,114
93
Location
AL
This is the valve that Mike and Mogman are talking about…..


Hot/cold air is a separate problem from “no air flow”.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,931
9,592
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Here is the manual valve, if you want to source one yourself (universal) the hose is 5/8" get some good quality hose also because I think the electric valve is longer so the hoses may be short even if they are in good cond.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,931
9,592
113
Location
Papalote, TX
Here is the part number for a "universal" valve that is 16mm, same as 5/8 they are literally everywhere.
HV2211C
 

taskunitbruiser

Active member
111
51
28
Location
Alabama
Here is the manual valve, if you want to source one yourself (universal) the hose is 5/8" get some good quality hose also because I think the electric valve is longer so the hoses may be short even if they are in good cond.
Is this https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Co...sprefix=hv2211c+universal+valv,aps,200&sr=8-2 the same as the Kascar part? Or is the Kascar OEM and not "universal"? The picture looks the same.
 

taskunitbruiser

Active member
111
51
28
Location
Alabama
So I just unplug the connection in the first pic and zip tie out of the way, disconnect the two hoses in the second picture and remove the electrical heater control value and insert the new manual one in? The shut position on the valve should be AC and the open heat, correct?
 

Attachments

REF

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
117
127
43
Location
Porterville Calif
You can also just unsnap the coil from the holder push it forward to close the valve and snap it back down to hold it closed.
 

taskunitbruiser

Active member
111
51
28
Location
Alabama
You can also just unsnap the coil from the holder push it forward to close the valve and snap it back down to hold it closed.
I actually did this today to test. I got off the spring with some needle nose pliers and then pushed it forward. I disconnected the wiring, but that was likely not necessary. Unfortunately it's not very cold, but it was the main issue. I moved it back and forth once the engine warmed up and made huge difference.
 

taskunitbruiser

Active member
111
51
28
Location
Alabama
Got the manual valve installed a couple days ago. Moved the air intake out of the way a bit, but pretty straightforward install. It is slightly longer than the Thermotion coupler and so did not need extra hose nor that much longer where I needed to cut either. Thanks guys! I basically have a vent now, since not blowing cold (refrigerant leak I'd guess), but no more hot.
 

Attachments

Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks