MEP-003A

[Ray70]

Also, be aware that if your fuel tank is more than about 3/4 full the Auxiliary pump will not run at all, assuming that your float switch is functional.
The 2 others should have power in either switch position.

 

[rlegare44]

Ok, to back up a bit. One rreply suggested I run a wire from + to the pump cap. My meter when reading battery V locked in at 24V. When I checked the quick disconnect plug the meter fluxuated all over the place way to high, but for a second it read 24V. I was going to try the wire to bat. + just to see if anything happened. If the pump is clogged, would that cause the emergency shut off breaker to kick out?

Ok, I ran a wire from Bat. + to the male of the quick connect. The pump immediately started to click. Checked the female end for tightness or corrosion, all clean. Now I'm really stuck. ):

 

[Scoobyshep]

Also, be aware that if your fuel tank is more than about 3/4 full the Auxiliary pump will not run at all, assuming that your float switch is functional.
The 2 others should have power in either switch position.

I'm pretty sure it will. I believe the float deenergizes the valve

 

[rlegare44]

Also for reference I wouldn't run a wire directly from the battery to whatever you're testing because you're relying on absolutely no over current protection so if you have something badly shorted to ground you're going to find out very quickly and very burny. Just something to keep in mind

Did have a large spark but removed right away

 

[rlegare44]

I'm pretty sure it will. I believe the float deenergizes the valve

tank is 1/2 full

 

[rlegare44]

tank is 1/2 full

Since the pump ran with wire from bat. +, does that mean the capacitor is working also?

 

[rlegare44]

Since the pump ran with wire from bat. +, does that mean the capacitor is working also?

With all thos wires wrapped the way they are, do you happen to know where the pump disconnect starts from? Opening up the control panel doesn't show much other than wires coming in to the switch. This unit only has 3 hrs. on it but has been stored fror a number of years.

 

[Scoobyshep]

click the TM tab up top go to generator and electrical TMs about 4 pages in is all the TMs you need for the mep003 download the -12 tm (not the one ending in LO) and look at pdf page 53. thats the control diagram

 

[rlegare44]

With all thos wires wrapped the way they are, do you happen to know where the pump disconnect starts from? Opening up the control panel doesn't show much other than wires coming in to the switch. This unit only has 3 hrs. on it but has been stored fror a number of years.

The breaker only popped twice the first time I attempted to start. Maybe I was running it too long and had not primed it long enough. The clicking was constant until I moved to start position. not knowing at the time that pumps evidently were not engaging. I have turned engine over several times since and breaker has not popped. I don't run it but a few seconds but it stays in. I did once try a small amount of starting fluid into the air intake and it started right away but would not continue running after source was used.

 

[rlegare44]

click the TM tab up top go to generator and electrical TMs about 4 pages in is all the TMs you need for the mep003 download the -12 tm (not the one ending in LO) and look at pdf page 53. thats the control diagram

I don't see any place to download up top. I have downloaded
TM
O P E R A T O R A N D O R G A N I Z A T I O N A L
M A I N T E N A N C E MANUAL
All 243 pages. If it's an electrical problem that requires reading elect. schematics, then I'm stalled.

 

[Scoobyshep]

All the TM's you need to work on the MEP-003A

All the TM's you need to work on the MEP-003A

www.steelsoldiers.com

heres the link. Are you skilled on reading diagrams?

 

[rlegare44]

If I get a 24V reading at the quick connect running from the unit, what is the difference when running directly from bat. + to the plug? As you say that can create a problem, but why would I not have a problem with 24V from the plug to the pump? It's 24V either way. The pumps do click and sound like they are priming when wired directly. Should I, before going any further remove the pumps for a complete cleaning? And once that is done, will that resolve the issue of the plug reading 24V but not supplying power to the pump, or will that solve the problem.

 

[Scoobyshep]

If I get a 24V reading at the quick connect running from the unit, what is the difference when running directly from bat. + to the plug? As you say that can create a problem, but why would I not have a problem with 24V from the plug to the pump? It's 24V either way. The pumps do click and sound like they are priming when wired directly. Should I, before going any further remove the pumps for a complete cleaning? And once that is done, will that resolve the issue of the plug reading 24V but not supplying power to the pump, or will that solve the problem.

The problem is there is no protection (circuit breaker)

So you can jump the pumps to power and they click? if thats the case then there is a wiring fault we need to dig into.

 

[Ray70]

If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection or you have a bad connection inside the control box that is not allowing enough amperage through to run the pumps. Go to the TM and check which pin on the terminal block in the center of the rear wall of the control panel is powering E2 and E3, you'll see it's TB5-7 from there the 2 wires go through the J2 connector on the back of the control box, pins E and F. Trace the circuit with you're meter and reverify you have power. If you still have an issue you can run a jumper from TB5-7 to one of the pumps and if it runs I would suspect a bad connection at J2.

 

[rlegare44]

The problem is there is no protection (circuit breaker)

So you can jump the pumps to power and they click? if thats the case then there is a wiring fault we need to dig into.

Will check readings Sunday at the switch to the plug and get with you then. Have a great evening.

 

[Guyfang]

I'm pretty sure it will. (No it wont) I believe the float deenergizes the valve. Correct. The float deenergizes the Valve. If the valve is deenergized, then the AUX pump can not pump, BUT ITS STILL ENERGIZED.

 

[Guyfang]

Since the pump ran with wire from bat. +, does that mean the capacitor is working also?

YES!

 

[Guyfang]

GOOD QUESTION.


If I get a 24V reading at the quick connect running from the unit, what is the difference when running directly from bat. + to the plug? (None. The pump works.) As you say that can create a problem, but why would I not have a problem with 24V from the plug to the pump? It's 24V either way.
(The problem is between the S1 start switch and the female plug. It you hot wire it and the pumps pum, then there is nothing wrong witht he pump or Capacitor.)
The pumps do click and sound like they are priming when wired directly. Should I, before going any further remove the pumps for a complete cleaning? (I would but its not going to fix your problem) And once that is done, will that resolve the issue of the plug reading 24V but not supplying power to the pump, or will that solve the problem.

 

[Guyfang]

Ray wrote:

If you were measuring 24V at the cannon plug with the switch on and none of the pumps were running and then you put 24V to the pump directly from the battery and both pumps ran, then either the cannon plugs weren't making a connection, ( And this happens a lot. People take the plug apart, and when they install it, the pin dosent go into the hole. So no power to the pump.) or you have a bad connection inside the control box that is not allowing enough amperage through to run the pumps. (Or the S1 switch is bad. ) Go to the TM and check which pin on the terminal block in the center of the rear wall of the control panel is powering E2 and E3, you'll see it's TB5-7 from there the 2 wires go through the J2 connector on the back of the control box, pins E and F. Trace the circuit with you're meter and reverify you have power. If you still have an issue you can run a jumper from TB5-7 to one of the pumps and if it runs I would suspect a bad connection at J2. (Thats why I said hot wire the pumps. The problem is before the pumps, if hot wiring made the pumps run.)

 

[Guyfang]

Lets go to school here. See S1. It is the Start/run/Aux and stop switch. Push in CB2. Turn the S1 to the run position. Check from ground to pins 13-14 on the S1. You should have 24 VDC. If you do, then check from ground to TB5-7. You should have 24 VDC. If you do, check from ground to the 2 female plugs, J2-E and J2-F. You should have 24 VDC. REMEMBER! There are 3 pumps. And 3 wires. So if you do NOT have 24 VDC on one wire, but DO on the second wire, you could have two of the 3 wires in the wrong place. The easyist way to figure out what is what, is take off all 3 wire. The 2 wire with 24V DC on it, go to your primary fuel pumps, E2 and E3.

You will ONLY have 24 VDC to the AUX pump, when it is in the AUX position, or the Start position. Look, S1-17 is for ONLY the E1. In fact, if you place the S1 in the RUN/AUX position, ALL 3 wire too the fuel pumps WILL have 24 VDC.