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Humvee Body Lift

Anvil Motorworks

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Castroville TX
We manufacture body lifts for both H1 and Humvee applications, even REVs. I will say that there are a few variables to consider when looking at these kits. For instance if you are using the factory style standard bumper with the three holes vs a winch plate you’ll need different brackets or blocks to raise the hood. Also I see a lot of these guys cut corners and just provide a fuel strap extension. We provide you with all new fuel straps the ensure your tank is secure and doesn’t swing. Also we don’t give you just a rubber block between the fuel tank and body, we provide a corrosion resistant aluminum block. Also, for the rear brackets, we designed our kit to raise the bumper with the body. This eliminates the ugly gap that you would otherwise get from just a body lift. In fact we are the only manufacturer that has been able to design a kit for the H1 that also retains the factory hitch so if you ever wanted to add a factory hitch all you would need is to purchase a few brackets and hardware from us. As for the steering shaft setup there are plenty of people that offer closeout panels for the different angle. RubberDuck4x4 has one and ModMafia does as well. If you go 3” you’ll also need to buy one of their shifter extension kits.

You can also message me directly if you have additional questions.
 
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Mogman

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Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100,
I used this guys pucks,
You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a couple pieces of 2" square steel tubing and extended the mounting straps myself.
With any lift 2" or more you will need to drop the boot where the steering shaft goes through the body.
I did this by making a simple filler plate for the old hole and lowering the hole and the boot, you can also see the 2" puck on the body mount
I also use 2 square tubing to raise the front of the hood.
Steering Clearance.jpg
 

Anvil Motorworks

New member
12
13
3
Location
Castroville TX
Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100,
I used this guys pucks,
You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a couple pieces of 2" square steel tubing and extended the mounting straps myself.
With any lift 2" or more you will need to drop the boot where the steering shaft goes through the body.
I did this by making a simple filler plate for the old hole and lowering the hole and the boot, you can also see the 2" puck on the body mount
I also use 2 square tubing to raise the front of the hood.
View attachment 933114
Spacers are definitely a cheap option but realistically it will cost you more than $100. You’ll need to source longer grade 8 bolts for all body mount locations and you’ll also need hardware for the hood lift. Tank strap can be extended if you can weld but if not you’ll need to source, which btw we offer by themself with hardware. As for the steering shaft, for you can get a closeout panel precision cut for the boot. That’s a pretty good deal and means a lot less time trying to fabricate. Also if you have a brushguard, replacing the front brackets will raise the brushguard with the body unlike blocks. The caveat to that is certain bumpers won’t work with new brackets. Lastly, the rear gap between the bumper and body. With a spacer lift you’ll have a gap no doubt. It’s an aesthetic thing so for some not a big deal but for others not so much. You can always make a closeout panel to hide the gap, but again, more fabricating.
 
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