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MEP 531a broken fan housing bolt

FarmingSmallKubota

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I work on a lot of mep 531a units and it is very easy to break the fly housing cover bolts. I like to replace the rubber vibration dampeners when needed, but the one i am working on has a pre broken bolt. I tried last night with channel locks as enough is sticking out to try and spin it out. Not enough is sticking out for 2 nuts but i can get 1 on. I will try vice grips tonight, but just wondering if i weld the nut on the bolt am i prone to fry the stator or gen head? I really do not want to take the motor off just for this one bolt.
 

Toolslinger

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Yea, they come pretty small now... And man when they inevitably snap off, then you got some real good times in front of you, 'cause you're not going to drill those things out...
I'd be more prone to drill out the core of the screw to relieve it. Even better would be to use a left hand bit to do it.
 

kloppk

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... I will try vice grips tonight, but just wondering if i weld the nut on the bolt am i prone to fry the stator or gen head? ....
EZ outs always break and make a bigger issue. Left hand drill bit can snap off too. Have had both happen. Had to grind them out with a titanium bit on my Dremel. Sucked.
If it were me, I'd weld a nut on it. Have used that method many times. The heat from welding helps break the bolt loose too.
Protect the area with a welding blanket to prevent molten metal from damaging anything.
 

2Pbfeet

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EZ outs always break and make a bigger issue. Left hand drill bit can snap off too. Have had both happen. Had to grind them out with a titanium bit on my Dremel. Sucked.
If it were me, I'd weld a nut on it. Have used that method many times. The heat from welding helps break the bolt loose too.
Protect the area with a welding blanket to prevent molten metal from damaging anything.
What about the electronics in the machine, e.g. the voltage regulator?

All the best,

Peter
 

Light in the Dark

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Whats the torque figure on these bolts that give you issues? Thinking outside of the box... if you have the threads enough for one nut, find the strongest industrial Loctite (or similar) whose shear figures are well above what the bolt is stuck in there at, and use it on the single nut.

I don't know anything about welding, can't help you there.
 

2Pbfeet

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@FarmingSmallKubota there are ultrasonic bolt removal services, but they aren't cheap around here.

Speaking as a welder, I would not be TIG or arc welding that close to generator windings. I've always been told not to do it due to the induced currents and voltages, so I have never done it. On a 531, it is not as if you are miles away from the coils. Any chance of using a gas torch with a small tip?

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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So as expected things did not go well. i tried heat, easy out, welding a nut to the stud, everything i know of and ended up with an off set wallerd out hole, so like my solution or not this is it, i am going to cut off the head of an m6 bolt and jb weld it in place and use a nut on the outside. no other option dissimilar metals and cross threading are at play here.
 
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FarmingSmallKubota

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I worked on the 531 some more today. i realized that a brass bushing in the end of the starter was broken and that was the original noise i heard clanging around. so i looked in the tm and it told me i had to remove the generator from the engine to change the starter which i was not about to do. I looked like a slot was there to remove it just had to remove the fly wheel. I did not have a flywheel puller and the old pry from behind and hit the nut was not working so off to Harbor freight today and tractor supply for some long m6 bolts and it came off in 2 minutes. The starter does come right off so sometimes it pays to not listen to the tm. m6 bolt that i jb welded is setting up and tomorrow i will grab a parts machine and steal a starter. hopefully the rubber isolators in the fly wheel housing cover come in or else i may rob some from another unit because these just turned to goo.
 
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