M1009 Little Red Riding Hood.

[cucvrus]

I installed the door baffles after a hood cleaning. That is another step. I have the passenger side door handle sanded and painted. Paint is drying. Take Care.

 

[dougco1]

I installed the door baffles after a hood cleaning. That is another step. I have the passenger side door handle sanded and painted. Paint is drying. Take Care. View attachment 932508
View attachment 932509

New one to me;
Whear is the door baffle located and what is their purpose?

 

[CARC686]

Keeps the rain out. Lets the air out when the blower motor is operating with the windows up.

 

[cucvrus]

The vent is located behind these slats in each door. It allows the pressure to release when the windows are all closed and you shut the doors. It also allows air pressure in the cab to escape during running the fan when all the windows are closed. Most old Chevys dont need any help allowing the air to escape. Rust holes do that.

 

[CARC686]

View attachment 932626 The vent is located behind these slats in each door. It allows the pressure to release when the windows are all closed and you shut the doors. It also allows air pressure in the cab to escape during running the fan when all the windows are closed. Most old Chevys dont need any help allowing the air to escape. Rust holes do that.

You're not kidding. I yanked my bed liner out this morning. Slower than a grinder, but just as effective.

 

[cucvrus]

My experience has been put nothing on the floor and just keep it painted. But I have also had great success with Line X. I had a DIY brush in liner and had terrible results. A false sense of protection that failed in a few years and took me months to clean and repair and in the end I had LineX sprayed in it. My current build I am planing on covering in a rubber mat for OEM purpose. I hope it has a dry life and I am able to keep it dry and original. I had the M1009 Mule floor painted in CARC 686 Tan and had about 5 hood coats on that floor. It held up well and it eventually rusted thru from the bottom side. Once they start rusting it is an up hill battle. Rust never sleeps. Do your best to hold it off but it eventually wind in the end.

 

[Sezzo]

My experience has been put nothing on the floor and just keep it painted. But I have also had great success with Line X. I had a DIY brush in liner and had terrible results. A false sense of protection that failed in a few years and took me months to clean and repair and in the end I had LineX sprayed in it. My current build I am planing on covering in a rubber mat for OEM purpose. I hope it has a dry life and I am able to keep it dry and original. I had the M1009 Mule floor painted in CARC 686 Tan and had about 5 hood coats on that floor. It held up well and it eventually rusted thru from the bottom side. Once they start rusting it is an up hill battle. Rust never sleeps. Do your best to hold it off but it eventually wind in the end.

Will you still sell Little Red?

 

[dougco1]

View attachment 932626 The vent is located behind these slats in each door. It allows the pressure to release when the windows are all closed and you shut the doors. It also allows air pressure in the cab to escape during running the fan when all the windows are closed. Most old Chevys dont need any help allowing the air to escape. Rust holes do that.

And all this time I thought the cold air coming in around my window crank was just free CUCV air-conditioning

 

[cucvrus]

Well technically there should be plastic and paper inner door skin seals. I see them on new cars and I never seen them on a CUCV. I don’t even recall seeing the plastic on new ones. Same as the push pins on the door panels. Not many CUCVs have the plastic push pins on the door panels. First time the door panel was removed they broke and that was the r end of that. The screws do a great job without the push pins. They used butyl chalk to hold on the inner plastic skins on most vehicles back then.

 

[cucvrus]

Will you still sell Little Red?

Good ?

 

[cucvrus]

A little progress over the weekend. I had lots of grass to mow. Door latches and door linkage can be a challenge. It either goes right on or fights all the way. The Left door bam. The Right door struggled. The clip for the outside handle rod is already a challenging piece of hardware. New stuff is 10 times easier to work on. Have a Great Day.

 

[cucvrus]

This is my dating profile picture. She is a beauty.

 

[cucvrus]

No, the windshield is not that clean but I’m not letting on to that. That weeds out my prospects. If they are that easily fooled I don’t push the like button.

 

[cucvrus]

I have been pushing forward with my projects and trying not to take on any more work. I have a few snowplow trucks to get ready and turned down a few CUCV repairs that I was afraid of. Anyway, I think as much as I hate to say this, I am pulling the engine out of Little Red M1009. I had it running and it runs fine but I looked at the orange coolant and it appears burnt orange. I also found some rust particles in the coolant. I was not happy. The radiator and heater core do not have any particles in them. I pulled them both out and have begun getting the engine ready to pull out. Pulling the engine will serve 2 purposes. I detail the entire engine and under hood area. I have this M1009 in my barn since 1996. I had all new hoses an OEM new Harrison radiator in it and all. The hoses were rock hard I had to cut them off the radiator and they bonded to the inlets. I know this is going in the wrong direction, but it will be an opportunity to change the OEM head gaskets and all. This M1009 has 12,674 original miles on it. It was from 28 th ID FITG. I bought it at a sale, and it was code H with the front axle full of water and I decided I was going to do a complete rebuild. So going forward my project took many steps backwards. But it is all time and money well spent. It is not being exposed to weather or hacking and is now 41 years old being built in 8/83. I think this is the proper way to do it. Unfortunately, I must cover and mask the entire front end to protect the new paint. I can do it. I will send the heads out or I may opt to open up 2 OEM GM heads I have in wooden crates. But as far as the short block I think that is fine. I just don’t want a defect internally in the cooling system and I know how old head gaskets look when they have been in service over 40 years. Huge expense but worth it in the end. I had the transmission and transfer case rebuilt/ resealed, and May as well do it right. Take Care. I broke the thermostat housing for starters, and it just kept going from there.

 

[cucvrus]

 

[cucvrus]

I found rust particles in the heater hoses. I had the heater hoses tied together and used a barbed connection to tie them together. It was a 5/8" butt connector. When I was going to change all the hoses and drain all the fluids, I discovered the heater hoses had rust particles in them. There was that mush rust in the hoses I could not put water from the hose thru the short heater hoses. I split the hoses full length, and it appeared to be light metal rust. The only thing I know in the engine that would corrode into light metal rust is the head gaskets. I pulled the water pump and the radiator, and no particles were in either of them. Rust stains but no particles. I flushed the radiator both ways and did not see any particles. I carefully drained the oil and filter the oil was clean. This oil change I did 25 years ago. if it has 10 miles on it would be lucky. I am going to pull the engine and detail everything on the engine and engine compartment. I am sure that the rust is head gasket material. I know nothing else that would corrode into small particles in the cooling system. I used Orange Dex Cool GM coolant. Probably 1999 2001 era. Not sure any opinions?

 

[cucvrus]

I am tossing the new fuel pump. It is over 20 years old, and I threw away the thermostat and broke the housing. I have brand new coolant manifolds. I will be sending the injection pump out for rebuilding. It is the OEM pump from the factory. The intake was never off of this truck before. Everything will look better and just be better. It probably has a rope rear main seal. It never leaked so I never changed it. But 25+ years sitting in y barn the antifreeze turned acidic. I tested it with test strips but did not test it for a few years. Can't remember when. It will all work out. I need some help to take the hood off. The hood had to come back off anyway because I have the wiper transmission and link removed for the total paintjob. That and I painted and lubed all the linkage joints. No squeak squeak every revolution of the wiper motor. Take Care Be Safe. look how clean the inside of the crankcase is. No black stains in the timing cover and very little rust on the water pump plate.

 

[WWRD99]

Well...I didn't see that coming! I understand getting it done right though. The rest of the truck looks new. I can think of a few parts that will look great on that engine now too!! Glad you'll use them. Wish this caught me a few weeks ago...I had a brand new cross over pipe I just sold on ebay...I'll look to see if there's another new one up there. Are you changing the water pump? We used the flow cooler one on a few of ours...look stock fit great. Due for a run up there anyhow. Keep rollin!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[Sezzo]

Green HD Truck Coolant is the way to go.

An old vehicle needs to run and drive regularly otherwise it will get severely damaged internally by standing, dozens of cold starts and just idling. It is how it is.

 

[cucvrus]

Green HD Truck Coolant is the way to go.

An old vehicle needs to run and drive regularly otherwise it will get severely damaged internally by standing, dozens of cold starts and just idling. It is how it is.

I don't see any severe damage on anything. Worse case is that the freeze plugs are corroded. Nothing seen so far is shocking. Mainly I was looking to improve the cosmetics under the hood and on the engine and should have done that before painting. But I didn't and I will deal with it in my own way. As long as it is in my barn it is in the time capsule. This is an improvement nothing more. It runs perfect and the throttle response was not what I wanted but I would have run a few tanks of fuel thru it and then decided if I wanted the injection pump rebuilt. increase in RPM's was no trouble when you left off it stumbled and stalled. Expected from something that was sitting as long as this has been sitting. But there is NOT anything SEVERELY damaged. I drove up the road on a wooden stool several times over the past 25 years. It shifted and ran fine. I am not worried just doing it right so when I take it for a 100 mile run it runs perfect. Have a Great Day.