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Wet..... Dry.... torque on lugs

coachgeo

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have not found it in TM's yet.. though it may have bit me 5 times and I still don't see it....

What is the torque rating for nuts on WET lug bolts (aka anti seize etc.) when tightening lug nuts? Dry is 400 to 450. but wet? Same question for bolts that hold two piece wheel halves together? Or is this a pooh pooh thing to do for one or both? Would think not but am wrong several times a day at least. (make that an hour)
 
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snowtrac nome

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i've known a lot of tire guys torque the same with antisize as with out. when using the cat manual for replacing heads they. require wet torque with a cat specific lubricant but the manual cautions not to use antisize. It did not say why I would guess its lubricating property's aren't uniform enough. I doubt you are going to do any damage to a 3/4 inch stud by over torqueing it so with anti size I would torque as dry.
 

Primussucks

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Old thread. I know. But still relevant.

Can a torque multiplier be used to install the lugs? Or just remove?
My torque only goes up to 325 ft lbs.

Wet/dry?
I never knew there was a difference.
Do I use compound on the lugs or not?

If it’s 60%. does that mean i tighten to 270 ft lbs with anti seize?

Thanks.
 

Ronmar

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I have never wet torqued lug nuts or done anything to wheel studs beyond cleaning them throughly… I found no indication that any lubricant was used on any of mine…

You can use a multiplier to torque, but your margin for error in the final torque is a little higher I think, especially with the typical ~60:1 wheel multiplier ratios. 450/63 = 7.14 ft/lb. A half a ft/lb error on the input = a #30 error on the output. I prefer a long lever with a known weight. IE 450 ft/lb = #150 at the end of a 3’ lever, or #75 at the end of a 6’ lever…
 

GeneralDisorder

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I use a 4:1 multiplier (X4 - https://www.x4tool.com/torque-multipliers/3-4-inch-torque-multipliers), and they recommend 10% additional torque to compensate for mechanical losses in the planetary gears. 125 ft/lbs input = 450 ft/lbs output. With a ~24" torque wrench you only need apply 62.5 ft/lbs of force to torque each lug nut. Very easy and still reasonably fast without the crazy "wind up" of the 60:1 stuff. I made an extension handle from an old hydraulic cylinder ram I picked up at the steel scrap yard for $10 so the whole thing breaks down to the multiplier head, handle, and extension and fits neatly in the BII box.

1000005945.jpg

Lug nuts are torqued dry. Lube just attracts dirt and debris. I use cosmoline spray to prevent corrosion (after torquing). It dries and does not attract dirt and sand, etc:

 
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Jbulach

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….You can use a multiplier to torque, but your margin for error in the final torque is a little higher I think, especially with the typical ~60:1 wheel multiplier ratios. 450/63 = 7.14 ft/lb. A half a ft/lb error on the input = a #30 error on the output…
If you use a high ratio multiplier, convert to inch pounds and adapt down to you inch pound wrench. Much less error likely other than friction loss in the multiplier
 

Ronmar

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If you use a high ratio multiplier, convert to inch pounds and adapt down to you inch pound wrench. Much less error likely other than friction loss in the multiplier
Exactly, and there is no real telling how much loss is in a planetary with 60:1 multiplication at this force level unless you build a jig and instrument to measure the actual loss(lever and scale to apply force in, lever and scale to measure force out). As mentioned it is also a little weird sneaking up on a 7ft/lb input force force with all the wind-up in a 60:1. 60;1 makes taking them off easy but Generals setup will be a whole lot more predictable putting them back on at 4:1... 125ft/lb(#62 of force at the end of a 2' wrench) sounds very manageable with common tools. but my #190 pound ass stepping onto the end of a horizontal handle 2'-4" long also creates the same 450 ft/lb of torque...

Its not rocket science, but Torque does tend to get folks wrapped around the axle...:)
 
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