Steelsoldiers’ BIG M1152A1 HMMWV Project!!

[steelsoldiers]

You’ve done a fine job restoring that vehicle!

Thank you, sir!

 

[steelsoldiers]

Sorry it has been so long since I updated this post. I got everything done and the truck on the road, but didn’t get all of the pics and info posted. I’m going to try to go back and do it from memory.

After installing the soft top, I had to add a few things to make it road legal in WV. First, I installed a license plate mount and light from Midwest Military Equipment. It was very easy since it used the existing bumper bolts to secure it. I ran the wiring in a piece of loom through an existing hole in the body.

Next, I installed the Black Dog led reverse light using the existing antenna bracket bolt holes and the Black Dog reverse light switch/harness kit. Getting the shifter out and installing the new detent switch was a pain, but the rest was very straightforward.

After that, I installed the Black Dog bulkhead kit. I wanted a little more protection from the elements and sliding objects in the bed, and this kit fit the bill perfectly. FYI, you definitely want to use a drill bit stop when you’re drilling holes in the floor for the seal. It would be easy to punch a hole in the fuel tank if you’re not careful.

Lastly, I installed a new tailpipe extension to replace the fording stack. The stacks look cool, but they seem to catch every branch off road!

More updates later!

 

[Mstng65HummrMan]

Thank you, sir. I’ll try pulling the alternator first. You know it’s a heavy pig when it comes with a lifting ring installed in it! I’ll park the tractor bucket over the truck and use a ratchet strap to pull it.

Yeah the bolts broken off in the head would be some bad juju. I’ll check them while I’m at it.

My 1151A1 321xxx serial number had two sheared bolts in the alternator support bracktry, the lower rear support to engine bolt was sheared off in the block, and the lower outermost bracket bolt is sheared in the block as well. Both of the other bolts under the thermostat and and behind the power steering inlet hose to pump were loose.

Anyone have any advice on getting the lower cylinder head bracket bolt out from behind the bracket. Looks to be an alternator/bracket removal to get to it.

Thanks again for all the assistance.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

My 1151A1 321xxx serial number had two sheared bolts in the alternator support bracktry, the lower rear support to engine bolt was sheared off in the block, and the lower outermost bracket bolt is sheared in the block as well. Both of the other bolts under the thermostat and and behind the power steering inlet hose to pump were loose.

Anyone have any advice on getting the lower cylinder head bracket bolt out from behind the bracket. Looks to be an alternator/bracket removal to get to it.

Thanks again for all the assistance.

very common, I did 2 trucks in one week not to long ago, but you need to pull it all out and asses from there, you have a 75% or better chance that the bolts are Finger loose and just need to be hit with some heat.

 

[TOBASH]

RWH is the king. My comments are general and not specific to HMMWV.

If superficial, use a short Dremmel to rip a slot across the top and a stubby flathead screwdriver to remove.

If deep, use an aluminum or copper pipe to protect threads and flux core wire to build up a neck and then weld that to a nut and unscrew.

If not deep, weld a washer and a nut to the bolt and remove.

 

[Mstng65HummrMan]

very common, I did 2 trucks in one week not to long ago, but you need to pull it all out and asses from there, you have a 75% or better chance that the bolts are Finger loose and just need to be hit with some heat.

Thanks. I got lucky on the lower rear it came out as I backed the drill bit out. Hoping for the same with the front of the cylinder head one.

 

[Mstng65HummrMan]

RWH is the king. My comments are general and not specific to HMMWV.

If superficial, use a short Dremmel to rip a slot across the top and a stubby flathead screwdriver to remove.

If deep, use an aluminum or copper pipe to protect threads and flux core wire to build up a neck and then weld that to a nut and unscrew.

If not deep, weld a washer and a nut to the bolt and remove.

Thank you

 

[Mogman]

Thanks. I got lucky on the lower rear it came out as I backed the drill bit out. Hoping for the same with the front of the cylinder head one.

You can try a left hand drill bit if you are going to drill it, many times they will "catch" and simply back out the broken bolt.

 

[Cybul]

Hi.
Nice job!

Do you have any plans or technical drawing with dimensions for rear seat frames?
Where did you buy rhino mount and doors? (whether they are made of fiber?)

Thanks.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Hi.
Nice job!

Do you have any plans or technical drawing with dimensions for rear seat frames?
Where did you buy rhino mount and doors? (whether they are made of fiber?)

Thanks.

I got the rear seat mount kits from Midwest. They may be able to provide drawings.

I got the tire carrier on FB Marketplace.

The doors are from Chris at South Georgia Corvette parts. The doors are fiberglass produced from a mold of an original door. The hardware is aftermarket and is decent. The latches are a little weak so I will be replacing them with OEM at some point. Also, the window latches will hit aftermarket seats when in the down position. I’m going to swap them to some low profile power window kits made for hot rods. I want to be able to raise and lower the windows from the driver’s seat.