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M1078a1 - Starter Flange Play

gslader

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I was doing a quick PM once over on my truck today and noticed a bit play - about 1/16" - between the starter and the starter flange (video below) - which means I'll need to pull the entire starter off to tighten the flange. I'm assuming there is no such thing as a "good amount" of play between my starter and the flange - but before I pull it off I thought I'd check. . . .

 

Mullaney

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I was doing a quick PM once over on my truck today and noticed a bit play - about 1/16" - between the starter and the starter flange (video below) - which means I'll need to pull the entire starter off to tighten the flange. I'm assuming there is no such thing as a "good amount" of play between my starter and the flange - but before I pull it off I thought I'd check. . . .

.
Like @GeneralDisorder said, pull it and fix it. LocTite is your friend. OR check it after you fix it - then after every third or so crankings - check it again.

Keeping your starter working and not having to buy a new one is a lot like a wife. If you call a starter a girl or give it a girly name - the Cheaper To Keep Her mantra comes to mind. :)

Hey - we gotta have fun here - and I hope you got a chuckle out of my post.
 

Plasa

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I will bring this topic to the first page. On my starter 2 of 5 bolts where broken and only 3 of them hold the entire starter in place. All of them where loose.photo_2025-01-20_17-17-36.jpg
Christian
 

Plasa

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Definitly.
What wrench did you use to close the 3 bolts that connects the flange to the flywheel housing?
I changed them to normal hex screws because the original ones are difficult to tight up...

Christian
Glad you caught it early. This seems to be an issue with some of these trucks. That was a real pain re-installing the starter (for me anyway!).
 

gslader

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Location
California
Definitly.
What wrench did you use to close the 3 bolts that connects the flange to the flywheel housing?
I changed them to normal hex screws because the original ones are difficult to tight up...

Christian
It’s been a while, but as I recollect the bottom, two bolts weren’t too tough to get tightened. However, the third bolt that is on the back top of the flange required a bunch of extensions and angle drivers, and as I recall, I felt like I was only getting 6° or 7° of movement every time I tightened it. I kept the original bolts, but putting that starter flange back on was a very time-consuming and frustrating process.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Huh. I just removed the power steering reservoir and bracket and pulled the starter out the top. Bolts were no issue - double-wrench used on most of them:


I think the whole process was about 2 hours to swap the starter. Very easy. No issues with bolt access for me. I did the whole job with a 12 point box wrench and a second wrench for tightening leverage. The one inner/lower bolt I did from below.

My snout was loose also. I think this is probably more widespread that people know. Some of my bolts were in fact "backed off" maybe half a millimeter but the goo they used had solidified and they were kinda stuck like they probably weren't going to fall out. Starter had about 1/2" of play at the front with a prybar. None of the bolts were actually broken though so I was able to clean them and loctite them back in place.
 
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