Central FL M1031 project

[CARC686]

Did mine last year. Copper spray is the ticket. No more coolant "smoke".

 

[deank]

Now the light bar will have to come off. Can’t look like it came out the ‘cars’ movie…

 

[CARC686]

Hope your heads aren't cracked. Use an HVAC inspection kit. Spray the mating surfaces with florescent penetrant dye and look at them under a black light with the glasses to make sure it's just the gasket. If they're not bad, you can resurface them at home with a heavy pane of glass covered in emery cloth.

 

[deank]

Does anyone understand the rationale behind the highlighted caution on this page of the -34 manual?


Thanks for any input.

 

[CARC686]

You'll make it not flat.

 

[deank]

So, just a scraper and razor blades…

 

[Mullaney]

Does anyone understand the rationale behind the highlighted caution on this page of the -34 manual?

View attachment 942425
Thanks for any input.

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I'm guessing that the wire brush in a drill and pressing down hard to clean carbon deposits could eat away metal.

 

[CARC686]

Really, you've just got to use an abrasive that's harder than gasket material, but softer than the cylinder head. I'm not afraid to use steel bristle wire brushes on iron, but I wouldn't use a steel bristle rotary tool. Brass wheels wear out fast, but they shouldn't hurt anything. The DIY thing is to scoot your cylinder head mating surface around on a piece of plate glass wrapped in emery cloth afterward. I used scrap glass from an antique aquarium. Marble or granite counter scrap would work. It's a sliding scale of how valuable your time is. You can take a long time and do it cheap or you can pay a machine shop to do it fast, or even not do it at all, but having taken it this far apart, I would face them.

NMWR 9-2815-274 : Using a straight edge and feeler gauge, check flatness of cylinder head to block mating surface. Flatness of cylinder head (11) must not vary more than 0.002-in. (0.051 mm) in distance of 6 in. (15.2 cm), or more than 0.006 in. (0.152 mm) overall. Replace cylinder head (11) if flatness does not meet specifications.

 

[deank]

Here we go again. .. time to pull the heads to see what is leaking.

 

[deank]

Well… No internal coolant leak on the passenger side.

 

[CARC686]

Might as well paint your valve covers while you're in there.

 

[deank]

Could not get anything done without soldier number 2.

 

[deank]

Well. I cannot find where anything was wrong on either side. I am a victim of my own assumptions. And, as Reacher would say, assumptions kill. In this case my wallet and my clock.
That is what I get for not doing the rational thing of flushing the system and refilling it to look for leaks, maybe I had not filled it all the way or it had not burped properly.
Either way, I will pull the block out and set it back up on the stand to properly install and torque the heads. That drivers side last bolt is a PITA.

 

[CARC686]

Bright side is you know everything's fine and you can paint everything prior to reassembly, which I sure wish I had done.

 

[biscuitwhistler37]

Bonus, head gaskets won't need done for a while.....

 

[deank]

Had some down time today. Finished up my t-shirt design. Getting ready to have a few made.


Feel free to download and have your own made. I have a front logo if you want the big picture on the back.

 

[deank]

Looking for some help.
I am ready to pull the block out of the truck. I have never pulled just a block out before. Where is it safe to bolt onto the block? Heads are off. I do not want to break the block lifting it out using headbolt holes.

 

[CARC686]

Looking for some help.
I am ready to pull the block out of the truck. I have never pulled just a block out before. Where is it safe to bolt onto the block? Heads are off. I do not want to break the block lifting it out using headbolt holes.

Good question. Forgive me for talking out of my ass, but my best guess would be to use eye bolts threaded into the head stud holes, squared up to the four corners with a balance bar. I haven't hoisted a headless engine before, so don't take my word for it, but thread matching should be easy since you already have the studs out. Are you going through the entire engine while you've got it apart?

Edit: If you're really worried about breaking the block, you could cradle the engine in several wraps of tow strap and crane it by the pan.

 

[Mullaney]

Good question. Forgive me for talking out of my ass, but my best guess would be to use eye bolts threaded into the head stud holes, squared up to the four corners with a balance bar. I haven't hoisted a headless engine before, so don't take my word for it, but thread matching should be easy since you already have the studs out. Are you going through the entire engine while you've got it apart?

Edit: If you're really worried about breaking the block, you could cradle the engine in several wraps of tow strap and crane it by the pan.

.
Cradling it by the pan might be a lot safer - but it may crush your oil pan.

 

[CARC686]

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Cradling it by the pan might be a lot safer - but it may crush your oil pan.

Having gone so far already, might as well yank the pan and carry on smartly. Just put it all back together on a stand and drop it back in fully assembled.