Kinda got carried away..... M1028 rebuild

[Mullaney]

I'm coming down the home stretch on the interior. Got the new gauge cluster completed and installed. None of the gauges are hooked up yet, that will be done when the new P400 powertrain goes in later in the summer. The carpet set fit like a glove, even the piece for the rear cab wall. For the console, I purchased a center console kit for a Tahoe PPV (Police Patrol Vehicle) and fabricated a custom steel bracket, bolted to the seat bolts in the cab floor, to hold it in place in the front. The back of the console simply sits on the level package rack behind the seats. Worked perfect. I moved the console towards the passenger side an inch or so to provide sufficient room to operate the new cable shifter. In preparation for the Vintage Air, I went ahead and fit the new vents into the dash and instrument bezel. Had to relocate the black-out switches down into the steel dash to make room for the outboard vent, and had to relocate the amp gauge down into the bracket for the diagnostic port. I completely removed the diagnostic wiring harness and this opened a 2" hole in the firewall, into which I plan to fabricate a custom rubber grommet to seal all the leads from the new gauges.

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That is a sharp looking gauge cluster!

The good part is that there are two bucket seats, so nobody ends up riding in the middle.
Safety matters and it won't be a problem the way you designed it. Very Cool!

 

[vanaisa]

Are those clusters rare? Seen it installed, i am sure need one for my 1009
Nicely keeps this old military look...

 

[Sharecropper]

Are those clusters rare? Seen it installed, i am sure need one for my 1009
Nicely keeps this old military look...

Sorry to take so long to reply. Been crazy busy on honey-do projects. I have a couple of those clusters left over if you are interested. I had originally designed the cluster for six gauges (tach, oil pressure, water temperature, oil temperature, fuel pressure, and transmission temperature), but after deciding to go forward with the Bullet Supercharger, I had to design and build a new cluster housing to accommodate two more gauges (boost and EGT). So I still have the six-gauge cluster if anybody wants one. I also have a couple aluminum six-gauge prototypes I used in the design and developmental stages. You will need to produce your own top plate, as I only produced the one shown in the photo below. The gauge holes are all for 2-5/8" AutoMeter instruments, except for the tach hole, which is for the HMMWV tach.

 

[vanaisa]

well, i am interested. But shipping is killer, i afraid
Do you have drawings? And do you want share them?

Kind of penny stretcher request of course

 

[Sharecropper]

well, i am interested. But shipping is killer, i afraid
Do you have drawings? And do you want share them?

Kind of penny stretcher request of course

I have a substantial amount of engineering time involved in the development of the cluster. Because of that, I would prefer to simply sell the finished cluster and possibly the prototypes, which are fine except they are produced from aluminum instead of steel. Send me a PM with your exact mailing address and I will see what USPS Parcel Post would cost to get one to you. One thing to keep in mind, however, is the HMMWV tach will need to get its signal from somewhere. Because I will be using a 700R4 instead of a TH400, I am able to abandon the OEM vacuum pump and instead use a HMMWV oil pump drive with the tach sender on top. Before I expended the time and effort on the new cluster, I temporarily hooked up the tach to 24v and chucked-up the tach drive spindle in my cordless drill to make sure it worked as intended, and it did. So all my extra clusters are designed to accommodate the HMMWV tach and five (5) 2-5/8" AutoMeter gauges. A different set of gauges with different sizes would make my drawing obsolete. So you might be better off simply using my idea and then developing your own engineering. I am not an engineer or anything close to an engineer. But I do claim to be an efficient technician, having enjoyed over 50 years in the architectural millwork business. If you are handy with your tools and hands (and brain), you can do as good or perhaps even better than I have done. I had never designed a gauge cluster until I designed mine. I simply sat in my driver's seat and determined where in my immediate vision would be the best place for gauges. There was really only one place, and that was where the ashtray was. I then decided what gauges I needed, and then drew the cluster face on a piece of cardboard. I then determined that the cluster face would need to be "cocked" towards the driver by 30 degrees, and also rotated upwards (from the bottom) by 30 degrees. Once I had this data, I cut more carboard and began taping things together. After much trial and error, I arrived at the final design and angles. One difficult task was developing the shape of the lower OEM dash, as it is not a true radius but instead a portion of an ellipse. So I had to trace this and then transfer the shape into my AutoCad drawing. Here's a photo of the first mockup dated January 2020 -

 

[vanaisa]

Thanks, i somehow understood that this console is OEM. My mistake. But still great piece. I have TinyTach, so too much holes for me anyway.
I probably try to fabricate something similar - truly nice addition to CUCV.

 

[DREAD KT]

Just want to put this out here: https://800nonoise.com/product/acoustical-floormats/ (no affiliation, no compensation) they have a 383 green (and 686 tan) textured vinyl composite floor material by the roll. I had been going this way with the M1009(s) to give a quiet decoupled limp loaded mass on resilient padding foam over a KillMat/Dynamat damped floor pan and firewall, which still would be cleanable with a hose. SEM does custom colors for their flexible vinyl/fabric/carpet paint, and once upon a time I had sent them the FS-595 (now SAE) color swatches to match. This was before they got purchased a while back.

Nice! I was looking for something. My Deuce had mats that were so disgusting and torn up that I did not even keep them (but should have to make measurements). They caused a lot of rusting, so I repainted and used truck bed liner to paint the floor. Now I am thinking of putting some nice mats to reduce sound. The originals did not fit that well, so not sure if I want to spring for original replacements (found a few on eBay), but like your idea. Here is the link https://shop.800nonoise.com/Twist-Grain-Floormats-10-Roll-CC-1LB.htm to buy the material on-line. They even have pictures of a Deuce redone. A little expensive at $305+freight for 45 feet. Anyone use this stuff yet?

 

[Tinstar]

Anyone use this stuff yet?

This flooring was installed on both my 5 tons that were just out from fresh military rebuilds.

It definitely keeps the sound down but their heavy and even heavier when wet.
They act like a water sponge and really hold the water and take forever to dry.
At least the ones I had did.

That’s why the shipping is expensive.
Big, bulky and heavy.

 

[ballencd]

So, 2 more years gone by and no word on the truck! Is it complete, running?

 

[Sharecropper]

So, 2 more years gone by and no word on the truck! Is it complete, running?

No, unfortunately I have not finished my truck. Even at 74 years old I've been swamped with career responsibilities and in March, my wife & I lost our only daughter to a sudden heart attack. Losing her threw a curveball in our life plans to say the least.

But I have completed the new P400/765R4/NP241 drivetrain, and it is ready to install as soon as I can carve out some time. I posted a photo over in the "What Have You Done..." forum but will re-post it again here. I spared no expense in assembling the drivetrain and I believe it may be the last and only non-cranked P400 in existence. I started on this drivetrain way back in 2017 or so when LeRoy called to say that he had an opportunity to purchase ten (10) P400 long blocks from GEP and wanted to pre-sell them. I bought one sight-unseen and wish now I had bought all ten. Anyway, over the course of the next few years I added components until the final nut was torqued a few months ago. I had to fabricate all the custom bracketry and truly enjoyed the process. I'll be happy to answer any questions you or any other SS member may have pertaining to how I did this or that. Many of the applications had never been done before, or at least I had never heard of them, so I had to envision and engineer many things to make everything work together. So if you have any questions, fire away.

Whenever I can carve out a couple weeks from my busy schedule, I plan to remove the front clip including the radiator and core support. I will then disconnect the original 15,000-mile OEM 6.2, transmission, and NP208 from all connections, and ease it out with my forklift and adjustable engine hoist attachment. I've already lifted the P400 assembly off its cradle with the hoist and adjusted it so that the entire drivetrain is perfectly level when lifted. After removing the 6.2 with transmission & TC still attached, I will set it aside and then pick up the new drivetrain and ease it into position, watching carefully for clearance between the crossmember and the girdle/cast aluminum oil pan of the P400. If insufficient clearance exists, I will either order one of the aftermarket crossmembers from ORD or simply modify my crossmember myself. I'll just have to cross that bridge when I get to it. Anyway, it should be fun and I am looking forward to it. I will indeed update this thread when all the fireworks start.

 

[dougco1]

No, unfortunately I have not finished my truck. Even at 74 years old I've been swamped with career responsibilities and in March, my wife & I lost our only daughter to a sudden heart attack. Losing her threw a curveball in our life plans to say the least.

But I have completed the new P400/765R4/NP241 drivetrain, and it is ready to install as soon as I can carve out some time. I posted a photo over in the "What Have You Done..." forum but will re-post it again here. I spared no expense in assembling the drivetrain and I believe it may be the last and only non-cranked P400 in existence. I started on this drivetrain way back in 2017 or so when LeRoy called to say that he had an opportunity to purchase ten (10) P400 long blocks from GEP and wanted to pre-sell them. I bought one sight-unseen and wish now I had bought all ten. Anyway, over the course of the next few years I added components until the final nut was torqued a few months ago. I had to fabricate all the custom bracketry and truly enjoyed the process. I'll be happy to answer any questions you or any other SS member may have pertaining to how I did this or that. Many of the applications had never been done before, or at least I had never heard of them, so I had to envision and engineer many things to make everything work together. So if you have any questions, fire away.

Whenever I can carve out a couple weeks from my busy schedule, I plan to remove the front clip including the radiator and core support. I will then disconnect the original 15,000-mile OEM 6.2, transmission, and NP208 from all connections, and ease it out with my forklift and adjustable engine hoist attachment. I've already lifted the P400 assembly off its cradle with the hoist and adjusted it so that the entire drivetrain is perfectly level when lifted. After removing the 6.2 with transmission & TC still attached, I will set it aside and then pick up the new drivetrain and ease it into position, watching carefully for clearance between the crossmember and the girdle/cast aluminum oil pan of the P400. If insufficient clearance exists, I will either order one of the aftermarket crossmembers from ORD or simply modify my crossmember myself. I'll just have to cross that bridge when I get to it. Anyway, it should be fun and I am looking forward to it. I will indeed update this thread when all the fireworks start.

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My condolences. From someone that experienced the same.

 

[1love]

My condolences brother, I pray nothing but fast healing.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

My condolences - there are no words we can say to ease this pain.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

My condolences. From someone that experienced the same.

You expierenced the nightmare for all parents. May some day come Happiness back in your lifes.

 

[nattieleather]

I'm so sorry for your loss. My prayers to you and your family.

On the brighter side your engine looks sweet! A 6.5 diesel with a blower who would have thought!

 

[ridenby]

I was thinking of you today. So sorry to read of your Daughters' passing. Hope you and wife are in good health.

 

[Sharecropper]

Well folks, what started as a simple hood replacement project fifteen years ago and evolved into a full-blown rebuild, has now been restarted to complete the ordeal. As many of you know, in 2018 I made the decision to build & install a new drivetrain. Over the past eight years I have been patiently assembling that powerplant and have now begun the process of removing my OEM drivetrain which has slightly over 15,000 original miles, and installing my newly completed P400 / 765R4 / NP241 drivetrain. I had to continually postpone this work due to health issues, career obligations, and the passing of my only daughter. Now at 74, I realize that if I am to get this project completed and be able to enjoy it before I too am called home, I need to git-er-done.

Over the weekend a friend and I removed the front clip, and continue to be amazed at how rust-free the truck is due to it living its life on a National Guard Base in Scottsdale, AZ. Yesterday I drained all fluids and everything looked in order with no cross-contamination visible. Today I will remove the driveshafts, mufflers, speedo cable, shift linkage, etc. Because of business obligations, I will not be able to work on it again until Thursday, at which time I will remove the radiator and core support. The entire drivetrain will then be ready to remove straight out by unbolting the motor mounts and transmission mount. Then comes the fun part of cleaning & repainting the frame (not necessarily because it needs it) and under-coating the cab floor with GM Undercoating. Next I will remove the seats, console and carpeting, and then remove the OEM heater core in preparation of the new Vintage Air system. Once all this gets done, I will then be ready to slide the new powertrain in the same way the OEM powertrain came out. Stay tuned, this will be fun.

 

[dougco1]

Well folks, what started as a simple hood replacement project fifteen years ago and evolved into a full-blown rebuild, has now been restarted to complete the ordeal. As many of you know, in 2018 I made the decision to build & install a new drivetrain. Over the past eight years I have been patiently assembling that powerplant and have now begun the process of removing my OEM drivetrain which has slightly over 15,000 original miles, and installing my newly completed P400 / 765R4 / NP241 drivetrain. I had to continually postpone this work due to health issues, career obligations, and the passing of my only daughter. Now at 74, I realize that if I am to get this project completed and be able to enjoy it before I too am called home, I need to git-er-done.

Over the weekend a friend and I removed the front clip, and continue to be amazed at how rust-free the truck is due to it living its life on a National Guard Base in Scottsdale, AZ. Yesterday I drained all fluids and everything looked in order with no cross-contamination visible. Today I will remove the driveshafts, mufflers, speedo cable, shift linkage, etc. Because of business obligations, I will not be able to work on it again until Thursday, at which time I will remove the radiator and core support. The entire drivetrain will then be ready to remove straight out by unbolting the motor mounts and transmission mount. Then comes the fun part of cleaning & repainting the frame (not necessarily because it needs it) and under-coating the cab floor with GM Undercoating. Next I will remove the seats, console and carpeting, and then remove the OEM heater core in preparation of the new Vintage Air system. Once all this gets done, I will then be ready to slide the new powertrain in the same way the OEM powertrain came out. Stay tuned, this will be fun.

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Sharecropper

We have all been waiting for your "git-er-done" project.
I trust that all will go superbly.
Can't wait to hear that beast rumble.

 

[Sharecropper]

Over the weekend after draining all fluids and removing the driveshafts, I removed the radiator, core support, hoses, and all other attachments to the OEM drivetrain, then lifted the entire unit out of the engine bay with my forklift and engine-lifting gantry attachment. Began the process of installing the new Vintage Air system while the drivetrain was out of the way. Sealed & bolted the Vintage Air firewall plate to the firewall after pre-drilling the pilot holes through the plate. Note - I had to move the 24V buss upwards approximately 3/4" in order for the top evaporator attachment bolt to clear the bottom of the buss. This was the first time I had ever removed the buss and discovered that it is attached with 1/4"-20 nut-serts in the firewall, so I dug out my nut-sert kit and installed two new ones 3/4" higher on the firewall. After reattaching the buss I confirmed that the higher location of the buss would not be too close to the underside of the hood when it is closed. Not even close, so all is good. Then removed the glove compartment per Vintage Air instructions, as well as the dash pad and my custom gauge panel in order to provide access to install the Vintage Air evaporator unit under the dash. Before I could do that I had to remove the OEM heater/defroster unit and related ductwork, and OEM dash control. Once all this stuff was out of the way, it was fairly easy to see how the new Vintage Air unit was supposed to fit. It was at this point that I decided to install foil-backed self-stick insulation to the cab-side of the firewall prior to installing the evaporator unit. I carefully cut the thick cab-side OEM firewall insulation at the transmission hump, removed the large rubber grommet in the lower right-hand corner, and laid the insulation aside temporarily. To install the foil-backed self-stick insulation, I had to produce a cardboard template for the OEM air gate through the firewall, which is now closed by the Vintage Air firewall plate. Got all this done in record time and then wrestled the Vintage Air evaporator unit into place after attaching the mounting brackets and heater hose/refrigerant lines while still on my bench. This was a bear to get into place, so per the instructions, I removed the two bolts which attach the dash frame to the passenger-side windshield frame. This allowed the steel face of the dash to be pulled outward slightly, just enough to allow the unit to be rotated up behind the dash and into place. The attachment bolts were then inserted through the firewall plate from the engine bay by my wife, while I held the evaporator unit in place. By looking through the opening where the glove box was, and using a flashlight, it was easy to see and get the top bolt through the firewall, through the supplied spacer, and started into the mounting plate on the unit. Then the lower mounting bolt, which cannot be seen from anywhere on God's green earth, was started by the wifey while I laid on my back in the passenger floor board and fidgeted the unit around until the bolt head found it's hole. A note of caution - it is very difficult to keep the spacers on the attachment bolts while trying to get the bolt started into the mounting plates. I solved the problem by applying a short piece of duct tape above and below the bolt and across the OEM firewall insulation to hold the spacers in place. After all this, the attachment bolts were torqued on the engine-bay side. Next I will complete the in-cab installation of the Vintage Air system and get back on the process of cleaning the engine bay to receive the new P400 / 765R4 / NP241 drivetrain. Will post photos as I get a little further along.

 

[dougco1]

Over the weekend after draining all fluids and removing the driveshafts, I removed the radiator, core support, hoses, and all other attachments to the OEM drivetrain, then lifted the entire unit out of the engine bay with my forklift and engine-lifting gantry attachment. Began the process of installing the new Vintage Air system while the drivetrain was out of the way. Sealed & bolted the Vintage Air firewall plate to the firewall after pre-drilling the pilot holes through the plate. Note - I had to move the 24V buss upwards approximately 3/4" in order for the top evaporator attachment bolt to clear the bottom of the buss. This was the first time I had ever removed the buss and discovered that it is attached with 1/4"-20 nut-serts in the firewall, so I dug out my nut-sert kit and installed two new ones 3/4" higher on the firewall. After reattaching the buss I confirmed that the higher location of the buss would not be too close to the underside of the hood when it is closed. Not even close, so all is good. Then removed the glove compartment per Vintage Air instructions, as well as the dash pad and my custom gauge panel in order to provide access to install the Vintage Air evaporator unit under the dash. Before I could do that I had to remove the OEM heater/defroster unit and related ductwork, and OEM dash control. Once all this stuff was out of the way, it was fairly easy to see how the new Vintage Air unit was supposed to fit. It was at this point that I decided to install foil-backed self-stick insulation to the cab-side of the firewall prior to installing the evaporator unit. I carefully cut the thick cab-side OEM firewall insulation at the transmission hump, removed the large rubber grommet in the lower right-hand corner, and laid the insulation aside temporarily. To install the foil-backed self-stick insulation, I had to produce a cardboard template for the OEM air gate through the firewall, which is now closed by the Vintage Air firewall plate. Got all this done in record time and then wrestled the Vintage Air evaporator unit into place after attaching the mounting brackets and heater hose/refrigerant lines while still on my bench. This was a bear to get into place, so per the instructions, I removed the two bolts which attach the dash frame to the passenger-side windshield frame. This allowed the steel face of the dash to be pulled outward slightly, just enough to allow the unit to be rotated up behind the dash and into place. The attachment bolts were then inserted through the firewall plate from the engine bay by my wife, while I held the evaporator unit in place. By looking through the opening where the glove box was, and using a flashlight, it was easy to see and get the top bolt through the firewall, through the supplied spacer, and started into the mounting plate on the unit. Then the lower mounting bolt, which cannot be seen from anywhere on God's green earth, was started by the wifey while I laid on my back in the passenger floor board and fidgeted the unit around until the bolt head found it's hole. A note of caution - it is very difficult to keep the spacers on the attachment bolts while trying to get the bolt started into the mounting plates. I solved the problem by applying a short piece of duct tape above and below the bolt and across the OEM firewall insulation to hold the spacers in place. After all this, the attachment bolts were torqued on the engine-bay side. Next I will complete the in-cab installation of the Vintage Air system and get back on the process of cleaning the engine bay to receive the new P400 / 765R4 / NP241 drivetrain. Will post photos as I get a little further along.

Sounds like your recent neck surgery must have cured your past aliments and brought you closer to your wife.

To be twisted around upside down on your back on the floor of your truck cab at your age is a very difficult position to be in.
I only accomplished that move once, But I was 20 she was 18 and we weren't installing air-condition.

I commend you