starter issue

[sowchinook1]

Ok, here is the newest issue with my 1028. The truck has run well for three months then this: The starter keeps starting after the key is released. I have searched the forum and replace the relay under the dash but this did nothing. I even pulled the relay out while it was cranking and the starter still cranked. I had to disconnect the batteries and put out a small fire to get the starter to stop. I'm thinking there must be a solenoid issue. So I will probly buy a new starter. I have thought about doing the 24 to 12 conversion. Would a 12 volt starter work if I put a 24 volt solenoid on it? If not I'll probly do a conversion. If I do the conversion can I just buy a 12 volt starter at the local part store for generic 1985 k30 diesel or is there a specific part for cucvs.

Thx

 

[Westech]

Just get a 12V starter and slap it in. Move the main starter wire off the junction block on the firewall and move it to the first battery. I did that with my 09 and never had a problem. If you wish you can install a 24V solenoid but not really needed. Yes you can get a civy starter from any 6.2 will work. just make sure to use the support strap in the back.

and please don't convert the truck to 12V, the military charging system works just fine and will supply all the power you will ever need in the truck. If you do change it to 12V you will have to switch a ton of stuff around and really.. just not worth it.

 

[ida34]

Are you sure you replaced the right relay under the dash? There are two or three if I remember correctly. If after taking the correct relay out you still have power going to the starter then you probably to have a short inside the starter solenoid. The solenoid on the GM also operates the bendix but is is replaceable. The only issue is finding a 24 volt solenoid. I might try a 12 volt replacement first to see if it wears out quickly. If it does then I would just replace the whole starter. I would think a 12 volt would work fine.

 

[sowchinook1]

I am sure I replaced the right relay, just a 4 prong silver box, I used the AC40 I think, which was a ford blower relay. I'm going to buy a starter at the parts store and re-route the cable still using 24 volts. I'll let ya know how it goes

Thx

 

[Westech]

you mean using 12V?? make sure to move the thick main power wire off the junction block on the fire wall and move it to the first battery from the radiator.

 

[devilman96]

You should have replaced the relay with a solenoid, not another relay... which may or may not be the right relay...

Ether way you might want to take a second look under the dash and or at least do some trouble shooting v/s parts changing before you burn up a new starter... Ida34 is probably right... It's about a billion to one shot its the starter silonoid...

Don't waste your money on a new direct drive starter ether, which probably isn't new anyways... Buy the 24V gear reducted unit and be done with starter issues... AND REMEMBER TO ALWAYS INSTALL NEW BOLTS!!!

 

[sowchinook1]

Ok, so I replaced the starter w/ a 12 volt and rerouted the power cable to the first battery. All is working well and I'm happy with the conversion. I had an issue before the installation that I never really worked out. I know it's a longshot because you don't know what's been done to this particular vehicle but lt me try to explain anyway: During my starter issue, I had mentioned that the starter stayed on even when removing the relay under dash, the only way to get the starter to turn off was to disconect batteries. Well, after I disconnected the batteries and then reconected them, the starter had stopped spinning, however, I noticed a wire on the firewall junction block that had been severed and the rubber around it sliced apparently. I went to reconnect the two ends and, the starter engaged again and started turning, pull the two wire ends apart and the starter stops. I dont know where this wire fits into the starter equation but I know that without it connected, the ignition will not activate the starter. The wire is in the middle of the junction block and seems to go up into the generator. It is red. The wire comming off my starter solenoid is black and I cant trace it but it disappers somewhere behind the engine, i have since replaced the 24v starter with a 12v as suggested by the posts above and I reconnected that thin red wire and the starter seems to be working fine. I just dont understand why that wire was cut to begin with. I don't thnk it burned when the starter stuck because there are no charring marks and it just looks like it was cut. The truck was owned briefly by a civilian before me and I'm thinking maybe he cut it and rerouted some starter wires himself, so if I reconnected it, I'm worried maybe I've got the starter wired up twice somehow. Again, sorry for the odd-ball scenario but it's been annoying me lately and I'd like to resolve it. I have the cucv manual with the electrica diagrams but don't know how to read them. Included here is a pic of the wire I'm pointing at, real skinny, Its the junction block on the firewall where the second battery hooks up.

Thanks

 

[beaubeau]

Red wires are Hot. Purple wires usually represent Solenoid, or Start wire. Somewhere these wires may be Touching or Rewired wrong at some time. Never know what some people do to Modify something. Good luck, Phil

 

[hobie237]

and please don't convert the truck to 12V, the military charging system works just fine and will supply all the power you will ever need in the truck. If you do change it to 12V you will have to switch a ton of stuff around and really.. just not worth it.

Alrighty, I'll ask- if the starter is converted to 12v, what the heck is the point of keeping the 24v system? The starter is the only thing that's really worth keeping 24v for. The way you're describing, running the starter off the first battery, results in the second battery and alternator essentially doing nothing at all, and being dead weight to bring around. It'd be better to at least convert them to run in parallel so you could retain the same cranking wattage (your way halves it) by upping the amperage at 12v. Oh wait, that'd be a 12v conversion.