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How good/bad these 10 bolt axles?

Should I be worrying about the 10 bolt axles in my 1009? Is it worthwhile to add a gov-lok to the front one? How good is the 208 transfer case?
I do a few car hauler type tows a year, about three hours at a time.
 

Westech

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cow farts, Wisconsin
I never had a problem with my Stock M1009 at Haspin (off road park) I would not install a locker in the front unless your keeping it off road. On hard ball steering stinks and tire and front end wear will increase. The 208 case is a tough case and light. I have had friends brake them but they were running over 40" tires and 350's and big blocks with mega HP. If your going to be towing a car trailer with the 09 well.... its going to take a while. The 3.08 gears are not going to help any. You will make it just don't poor on the fuel at the stop lights and make sure that trailer has brakes.
 

K45

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They are ok axles overall. They are fine for stock tires and up to 33" tires. anything bigger I would look at a dana 44 or a dana 60.
 

kennyw

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Stones Throw from Reiter, WA
The 10 bolt fronts do better than the 10 bolt rears for longevity. The rear axles have been know to go out just driving on the street with stock size tires. But they were probably being abused. Towing cars will fall under the abused category. The gov-loc is affectionately referred to as a gov-bomb for a reason as well.

The cheap upgrade would be a set of 3/4 ton axles, D44 or 10 bolt 8-lug front axle and a 14FF rear axle. It is usually cheaper to buy a matching pair, than to buy the rear axle by itself and convert your existing front axle to 8 lug while regearing.

Another popular option is to get a set of 4.56 M1008 axles with a Dana 60 front and 14FF rear that has a Detroit locker. But the size of your tires will determine if those gears will work for you. 36-37" tires (or an OD tranny) will be required to take it out on the highway and get over 55 mph comfortably.

The 14SF and Dana 60FF rear axles are less common routes as well. But both of them will last 100X longer than the 10 bolt rear. There are some 14SF's available with 6 lug axleshafts, but they tend to be expensive in the wrecking yards. You will find them under the light duty Chevy/GMC 3/4 ton pickups from approx 1989-97+.
 
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MuddWeiser

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Just wanted to throw my opinion in here...

I think the stock axles are EXCELLENT. Sure they aren't that beefy. But for what these trucks are supposed to do, drive around carry a bunch of cargo and junk --- they are great.

I live in the snow. I have stock tires, axles never given me any issues and the truck wiil plow through snow until it piles up to the bumpers!
 

Recovry4x4

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They are more durable than the military expected. A couple of years ago lots of them, new in the crate, were surplussed. Think Colemans sells em new for $295ea.
 

Max Power

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Dallas, TX
I never had a problem with my Stock M1009 at Haspin (off road park) I would not install a locker in the front unless your keeping it off road. On hard ball steering stinks and tire and front end wear will increase. The 208 case is a tough case and light. I have had friends brake them but they were running over 40" tires and 350's and big blocks with mega HP. If your going to be towing a car trailer with the 09 well.... its going to take a while. The 3.08 gears are not going to help any. You will make it just don't poor on the fuel at the stop lights and make sure that trailer has brakes.
Big thing I dont like about the np208 is the slip yoke rear, meaning you cant limp home on front wheel drive if u blow a rear shaft or u joints. If you are running 35s or over be careful cuz the chain drive i heard can be weak, and maybe think about a skid guard cuz the right rock will go right though the aluminum.

I'm going to look into a slip yoke to fixed yoke conversion once i take care of more pressing porblems.
 

motormayhem

Member
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Tucson, AZ
Big thing I dont like about the np208 is the slip yoke rear, meaning you cant limp home on front wheel drive if u blow a rear shaft or u joints. If you are running 35s or over be careful cuz the chain drive i heard can be weak, and maybe think about a skid guard cuz the right rock will go right though the aluminum.

I'm going to look into a slip yoke to fixed yoke conversion once i take care of more pressing porblems.
I cracked my np208 because the bonehead who owned it before me lifted it and used the stock drive shaft (which turned out to be about 3" short). I was able to limp home on the front (about 10 mi) with the case bone dry and the only part that died was the nylon finger tips on the shifter forks. I think the np208 is a great case and has never given me any other trouble.
 

motormayhem

Member
609
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Location
Tucson, AZ
It has a 4" lift and 35's. I know a guy who converted his np208 to a fixed yoke rear. I believe he machined some parts and used a dodge rear cover on the T-case.
 

Max Power

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Oh crap lol I was planning on doing a 4 inch 35 combo, guess i should look into some longer driveshafts. Or maybe a t-case lowering kit. Those are very inexpensive.
 

Elwenil

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Do not lower your transfer case. It causes more problems than it solves. You improve the rear shaft angle at the cost of the shorter front shaft's angle.
 

Max Power

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Dallas, TX
So lessening the angle of the front drive shaft wouldn't be beneficial as well? Do you recommend a custom rear drive shaft?

I had a 79 K5 with a 4 inch lift and 35s and i only had trouble with the front drive shaft seperating during knarly runs. It had the np203.
 

Elwenil

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Think about it, when you angle the transfer case down, you are lessening the angle on the rear shaft, but increasing the angle on the front. You cannot drop a mated transfer case straight down unless you lower the entire engine, transmission and transfer case assembly. To keep the U-joint angles correct, the transfer case and axles should all be left at the stock angles. The only way to really help the driveshaft angles is to use a double cardan joint on the rear as with the front shaft. With the D/C joint, you can angle the pinion up so that it is inline with the shaft and lessen the angle through the D/C joint. The front axle can be done the same way, but you will completely ruin the caster angle and end up with a truck that is undrivable. The fix for this is to cut the C's off the axle and rotate them and re-weld them so that the pinion angle is improved and the caster angle is preserved. Naturally this is not an easy thing to do and is not for the backyard mechanic. Even with the angles fixed you can run into pinion bearing lubrication issues due to a low fluid level or leaks when the fluid level is increased to keep them lubed. Which is why there are so many spacers, shims, drop kits and other redneck fixes out there that cause vibration and binding. They generally may help the situation a little but are just a band-aid and not a well thought out fix. The only way I know of to make a driveline work without major modification is to use drive shafts made to operate at large angles like those offered by High Angle Driveline and Woods but they are rather expensive. You can get some satisfactory results by running better quality joints and grinding the yokes for more clearance but this is another band-aid and not a real fix. The real problem is by lifting a truck, you take it outside it's design parameters so naturally there has to be a price to pay. Most tolerate the vibrating drivelines, low U-joint life or expense of custom driveshafts as the cost of driving a lifted vehicle but few take it to the level of redesigning the system to operate properly. As with everything there is a price to pay, one way or another.
 

Max Power

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That makes sense, thanks for the great info! Since I'd be replacing the parts anyways I might as well drive it till it breaks lol
 
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