• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Few more ?'s get this baby started!

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
Ok guys I am not getting any fuel to the filter. I disconnected the pink wire and cranked it for a while let it sit and did it some more and nothing. Is there any other possibility besides the fuel pump? I included some pics of my new rig, the old relay and a few others for all you pic junkies like myself. On another note I am swapping over my gp relay to the GPR109 and was hoping someone had some closeup pics of theirs installed so I can wire it up correctly. Thanks! Oh and does anyone want a troop cover?

Thanks

Andy
 

Attachments

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
I'm interested in the troop cover.


Maybe your fuel has gelled or the filter is plugged with wax. Have you been using fuel additives in this cold weather?
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Sorry, I'm kinda new to the cucv trucks. Someone else can answer you better. I would say the thing is over 20 years old, so yeah, any 20 year old pump diaphram could go bad. The IP pumps were known to wear out fast(30-60K miles) I imagine age is a factor with them also.

So, are you saying, you have never had this truck running? The rubber flexible fuel lines at the tank sending unit, are also known to dryrot overtime, causeing air leaks that will keep them from getting fuel or hard starting.

Is your GP relay bad? There is nothing wrong with the style of relay solenoid, that you showed in the picture above.
 
Last edited:

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
Correct. I have never had this truck running. It cranks over like a champ but won't fire up. I tried bleeding the fuel system per the manual but couldn't get fuel to come out of the top port on the filter. As for the relay, I don't know if its bad but from all I have read the OE should be replaced. I figured I would do it as part of a major tune up along with the fuel filter, plugs, fluids and possibly pump.

Thanks

Andy
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Well, you definitely need fuel. A thorough inspection and testing of the glow plug system will be in order also.
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
well #1 make sure there is fuel in the tank. Don't trust the gauge at this point. #2 add 5 gallons to make sure you have fuel in the tank. #3 take a air gun (blow gun) and a shop rag and stick the air gun in the fuel neck and stuff rag around it to seal the end. Blow compressed air in to the tank, this will push the fuel up in to the lines a bit to help start the flow of fuel. open the bleeder (should be open already) and crank over. If nothing it could be a bad pump. Change it out there 25 bucks or so. (I am doing mine this weekend) Start over at step #1.
Also like dog said make sure the glow plugs are really working. No glow plug action with a CUCv even when warm will resualt in a no start. The 6.2 loves its glow plugs.
 

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
Correction - I don't need any pics of GPR. Just found the post that stated the wiring arrangement does not matter as long as its big to big and little to little.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Correction - I don't need any pics of GPR. Just found the post that stated the wiring arrangement does not matter as long as its big to big and little to little.
Correct
 

ralbelt

Active member
1,056
9
38
Location
West Warwick, R.I.
After checking all systems I used wd40 to fire it off. Mine also sat for a long time. and it was in the 30 degree or less temp. I also had a kerosene torpedo heater under the front end too help warm things up.
I might also be interested in the troop cover.
 

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
It really doesnt appear to be leaking but I am going on two weeks now and still no start. So far I have:
Replaced fuel
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced glow plugs
Replaced batts

I bled the fuel system at the filter and again at the injectors. I cracked the injectors loose and cranked twice for about 5 seconds. All injector lines were wet but when I put everything back together and cranked it good with new batts, I got nothing. No smoke, no sputter, no nothing - just cranking. I do believe my glow plugs are working. After I replaced them i cycled them a few times and pulled one out to check and it had browned a bit and looked to be getting hot. What else can I do? Do I have a bad injector pump? I am running out of patience and I NEED a truck soon for fire wood.

Andy
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
I havn't read everything but you need to verify & eliminate step by step.1 ) Are you getting normal amt fuel to your fuel filter on the firewall? To ck pull rubber hose (top big one) off and have someone turn over engine w/ign. key. If you get stream of diesel-good , go to next step. 2)Make sure glow plugs are working(I know you replaced all this stuff-BUT is it working? To check have someone turn ign to on pos. while you listen to silver solonoid on firewall. Does it click? If it does, simply pull one of the conn off of any glow plug & put one lead of volt meter & ground other on any good metal ground on engine. When the ign is 1st turned on & it clicks, you should get a reading of 11-12V DC then it might start dropping off lower which is OK. If this is whats happening then you have power to GPlugs. Here again if you are getting correct DC volts to plugs & it don't fire then CHECK you new GPlugs manuelly. Best way I found it take out and use a 6-10" jumper wire you can cut from any wire #10-#14. Hold "tight" one end of wire to the conn. area on GP while you let the threaded area of GP rest firmly against the + side of a 12V batt. and touch to other end of jumper wire to the NEg side of batt. Then almost immediately the GP should start to turn HOt. If it does GP is good, if not its BAD. DON'T TOUCH WORKING END OF GP FOR A WHILE BECAUSE ITS HOT HOT (I KNOW). If any of these steps don't work this should give you an idea where you can start to look for your problem. Let me know what happens on this & can go from there. Smokey
 

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
Thank you for your reply Smokey. I am getting diesel to the filter. I bled this with the valve on the upper right (sitting in the cab) of the filter. The GP relay is clicking and I did seem to get warm glow plugs - I pulled one out after I cycled them. I am going to check the voltage on the plugs tomorrow with a voltmeter. Ill let you know what I find.
 

CUCVFAN

Gunner's Mate First Class
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,177
47
48
Location
Jarrettsville, MD
If the filter base is "leaking air", it will more than likely be leaking fuel, since it's on the pressure side of the lift pump. They notoriously leak aroung the o-ring of the electrical vacuum/pressure switch in the base.

If the GP's weren't working but the IP was squirting fuel, it wouldn't start, but you'd get a heck of a lot of white smoke puffing out (if it has kind of compression). Have you tried spraying a dose of WD-40 in the intake while cranking? That will at least tell you if it'll fire at all, regardless of whether the IP is working.

The shutoff solenoid could be gummed up. Use a jumper and apply and remove 12V quickly on and off to the connector on the IP where the pink wire goes and see if you hear the solenoid clicking inside the IP. If it doesn't click, it could be stuck off and you'll have to pull that return cover off to free it.
 

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
I did try WD-40 and a bit of diesel fuel in the intake but nothing at all. I am gettin no smoke and no sputter at all. That is why I am so confused. I cracked the injector lines and all of them got wet when I cranked it and I pulled one of the gp's after I cycled them a few times and it seemed warm (although it was 10 degrees outside) and I don't even get as much as a sputter? Not even any smoke? I am going to conduct a more thorogh inspection of the glowplug system tomorrow and let you know.
 

CUCVFAN

Gunner's Mate First Class
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,177
47
48
Location
Jarrettsville, MD
As was stated before, after cycling the GP, it you pull it immediately, it will be too hot to touch.

It sure sounds like there's no fuel. The IP could be worn out and not making enough pressure to pop the injectors, but it should at least try to fire on WD-40 quirted into the intake while cranking (if the GP's are working). Diesel in the intake isn't really helpful, because it isn't atomized at all, so it can't really fire on it easily.

What glowplugs did you put in it? What voltage do you have at the GP solenoid (gp-side) while they are cycling on?

When cranking, does it sound like it has compression? Do you get exhaust/air puffing out the tailpipe, even if it isn't smokey?
 

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
Does the engine have to be cranking when I squirt so WD-40 in there? I kinda squirted it in there and then put the air cleaner back on and then got in the truck and cranked it.
 

Mtrdrms

New member
88
3
0
Location
Torrington, CT
Well I checked voltage at the relay and its good. I also checked it at the wires and its good. 12v and when it clicks it goes to 0. But before it clicked the voltage rised slowly from about 12v to 12.75 volts. Is that ok? So assuming the gp's are good, does that mean the problem is my injector pump? How do I rebuild it or do I have to replace it? Any advice would be much welcomed. This is day 10 of troubleshooting!:|
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks