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Upping the fuel

larrystg2

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My duece seemed a little sluggish when I drove it home. I have changed all the filters installed a pyro 2" post turbo and a boost gage. In my searches it seems like turning the fuel screw one flat has done miracles for others. I had to turn mine four flats before I noticed anything. My pyro on a steady pull up a grade hits 875 and 9 psi boost. At this point I have turned the fuel up 5 flats. It doesn't really smoke at all, just a faint black gray when it is under abig load. Have I reached the limit? How far can I go ? What else may I try to gain a little more power?

thanks
 
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gimpyrobb

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1200 is a good temp pre-turbo, I have heard that post turbo should be 1000* less, 1100. is where you should stop.
 

Floridianson

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On the high side 2400 rpm you could bring it up to 9.82 psi and still be in the factory specs. You could bring it up to 11 or 12 psi and if you are not overloading and asking to much from her you should not have any problems. I don't know which pump you have but the droop screw or the smoke cam controls up to 2000 rpm on some pumps. You need to find out what the psi is at load while at 1600rpm. 4.91 psi is with in factory specs. You can bring it up to 7 psi and watch load and pyro and still be good. Buy checking lower side this is where you will feel like she is pulling like a train all through the gears.
 

kurtkds

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Puyallup, WA
So far I've turned up mine 1 flat and gotten a little over 1000 deg pre turbo. I've got a probe for both front and rear manifolds. The rear runs hotter 'cause the probe is right across from #4 exhaust.

I've gone as high as 1050 Deg.

Running about 11 psi boost.


Pic of my gauge setup.
 

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larrystg2

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kingston tn
I like your instrumentation. Does your deuce make black smoke under a load? My next step is going to be adjusting the droop screw. When you are making 11psi boost , is that under an extreme load? Have you ever loaded it at 1600 rpm and checked the boost?
 

kurtkds

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Puyallup, WA
No black smoke yet..... But I can see some when I get on it.

I hit 11 psi accelerating above 2200 rpm.

Boost seems to be relative to engine rpm and load. When I load it at 1600 rpm I think I run 5 -6 psi.

Hope this helps.
 

HeadWizard

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Chantilly, VA
So far I've turned up mine 1 flat and gotten a little over 1000 deg pre turbo. I've got a probe for both front and rear manifolds. The rear runs hotter 'cause the probe is right across from #4 exhaust.

I've gone as high as 1050 Deg.

Running about 11 psi boost.


Pic of my gauge setup.
Really like the gauge setup. Brand? Where to get?

Thanks
 

gimpyrobb

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Well from what I understand, not all IPs have a droop adjustment. If you were talking about the LDS-465 TM(2nd page 6th line), that is the 5ton motor, different beast. I'd watch the pyro more than anything.
 

Floridianson

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Never said they were the same just use the manual to learn how to work on the thingy with big wheels. You can also go to TM 9-2910-226 and it will show you same thing. You can check in the TM9 as to what pump you have and if droop or smoke cam is used to control the lower end.
 
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Stretch44875

Super Jr. Moderator
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Turn the nuts, not the screw(will break inside).. You want to spin the nuts on the screw to pull it out. a little goes a long way.
 

vtach

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North Dallas, TX
So when people talk about turning it in' flats', are they refering to the flat edges on the nut that the screw goes through? Something like 6 flats equals 1 full turn of the screw?
 

cranetruck

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Turn the nuts, not the screw(will break inside).. You want to spin the nuts on the screw to pull it out. a little goes a long way.
The opening in the case is actually not threaded, the spring inside positions the rod as you turn the adjusting nut.

Rod moves in: Decrease fuel
Rod moves out: Increase fuel

Difference between setting for gasoline and DF2 is about 1/10 inch movement of the rod, which is about 2 full turns of the adjusting nut, which is the needed adjustment when the FDC is bypassed (=move rod in 1/10 inch).
 

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