Checking out deuces, have questions...

[kiotiugly]

Hi Guys-
I'm looking to purchase a deuce and went for my first test drive this weekend. It was the first time that I have driven one and I was impressed with the truck. I'm planning on looking at some more this weekend and I've got a few questions (I've done some searching and haven't come up with exactly what I'm looking for - I apologize if I was not thorough enough). I have looked at a couple of the technical manuals but have not read them thoroughly.

1. I've read the thread going on right now about a heater. I'm not sure if I have to have a heater, but if the truck is equipped with one, I would like for it to work. The truck that I drove had a heater, but the seller wasn't sure how to make it run. There was a toggle switch below and to the right of the steering column, and I think it turned the blower on and off. It was a three position switch, so I thought it might be Hi-OFF-LO, but I never could feel much air blowing (although with the engine off I could hear a "buzz" like a fan running). Question is - how much air should be blowing when it is on (and did I turn it on or did I miss something)?

2. Is the transmission synchonized through all of the gears? There were a couple of times as I was driving around that I would try to downshift to first gear, it would grind, and I would have to stop to get it in gear (this reminded me of my old IH dump truck with granny-low gear that was not synchronized).

3. Is there a rule of thumb for the value of a winch on a truck? I've never had a winch, but I'm sure that I would find a use for one. How much should it add to the cost of a given truck.

4. Finally, and this is probably the most broad question - what is important when comparing these trucks to one another. The place I went to over the weekend had 4 trucks - I drove one, looked at the other (that had no batteries), and didn't see the other two. We were a little tight on time, so we didn't look at the rest (the seller offered but we declined). The next place I'm going has 6 or 8 of them I think. Anything in particular to take note of when comparing one to the next.

Thanks for the help. I'm finding this site very informative and hope that someday I add something productive to it. Thanks again.

 

[BKubu]

1. It is quite possible that the petcocks that allow hot coolant to travel to the heater are closed. Make sure they are open. If they are closed, the heater will not produce heat.
2. First and reverse are non-synchro gears. I never downshift into first...never really had the need to. If I need to drop down to first for some reason, I come to a complete stop.
3. Add $1,000 for a winch...either in the price when you buy it or when you buy the winch to add it later on. If the truck is really clean, not having a winch is no big deal...just add it later. If you are picking between two equal trucks and the winch truck is a grand more, go for the winch truck.
4. Here are the things I'd look for in order of my preference: 1-rust-free; 2-strong running motor; 3-smooth shifting transmission; 4-air-shift front axle; 5-turbo motor (some guys prefer the C turbo because of the whistle)...the non-turbo trucks are great, too, but not many people want them so you will lower your resale value; 6-good tires (a set of new 900x20 tires will run you $1,000 plus mounting); 7-minimal oil leaks; 8-nice paint; 9-winch; 10-heater; 11-soft top (I am not a big hard top guy); 12-troop seats and headboard present. Please notice that I did not say anything about mileage or hours. These figures mean nothing...or at least very little. If the truck runs well, I'd take a high mileage/hour truck over a truck with low miles/hours if it did not run as well. Admittedly, if I had two identical trucks that scored high in each of the areas listed above, I would take the truck with lower miles/hours showing, but that would not be a huge factor. Your order may vary, but this is a start.

Good luck!

 

[GoHot229]

First and reverse have no syncro's that is to say you can not shift from second down to first without grinding unless stopped, however shifting up through 5th and back down to second, there are syncro's. Whinches are a favorite item to have on a Duce, but I'v never had the need to use mine, though I did unwind about 75 foot and pull myself up to a tree I had attached to it, so as to see if it worked, which it did. These typically sell for $1200 to $1500 alone, but on the truck as that comes with one already, I'd say that it might add $1000 to the asking price. They look cool and are usefull, (when? I don't know) but usually seldom used. I would think that the heater might have a bad ground that you observed, or a bad fan motor. You should have no question that the fan is blowing, they should be able to feel the air flow. This person you saw about the Duce should know a bit about the truck, and possably was playing ignorant about the items you addressed, it is after all, not a marvel in technology to know if the componants operate or not. A duce often times has either been thrashed to some degree, or led a pretty mundane life, and body damage should be an indicator, but not always. Keep in mind the tires are $100 or so each, so if they are shot expect a sizable chunk of change to take care of that. Rust also is an issue to be watching for, and are you capable of repairing it if it exists. Is it a turbo? a whistler turbo? Is it retrofitted with a muffler? Does the front axle engage easy, does hi and low range engage easy, do the brakes feel good, does it take verry long for the warning buzzer to go off when started? (air leak) do the lights opperate correctly? or turn signals? Spring seat? Will the emergency brake hold from rolling in neutral. These are a fiew things that I have found that I would examine if I were to shop for another Duce. And even if some of these things don't opperate, is it adjustment or replacement next. Don't get into too much of a hurry and shoot yourself in the foot, look through resorces here on the forum, and locate a Duce you'll likely get one with an acurate discription, and a knowledgable owner that would set you up with a (serviceable) unit.

 

[BKubu]

I want to add another to my list...13-run the truck for a while and walk away for about an hour...check to see if there is still air pressure and how much. I once could not drain the air from my tanks because my truck was parked unavoidably in a very muddy area. I went out to the truck about two weeks later and the air was still around 90 pounds!

 

[dittle]

Personally if you are planning on driving it home from the sellers place #1 on the list should be first and foremost that the BRAKES WORK. Doesn't matter if any of the other list items are good (and those are some good lists guys) if you aren't safe its not a good truck for your plans. If you plan on trailering it home and it has no brakes then by all means follow Bruce's and GoHot's lists.

 

[drgreg]

A winch does add alot of weight to the front of the truck, so if you don't need one skip it and save a bit.

 

[GoHot229]

As Dr. Greg (says,<--- infers ) winches are over rated...........I stand corrected.........

 

[gimpyrobb]

Winches are over rated if you have a truck that never goes off road. If you ever have to get pulled out of a "stuck" you will understand the need for one.

 

[BFR]

As Dr. Greg says, winches are over rated........

where does he say they are overated?

A winch does add alot of weight to the front of the truck, so if you don't need one skip it and save a bit.

 

[kiotiugly]

Hi Guys-

Thanks for all of the replies so far. The fella that had the trucks that I looked at/drove is not in the Milsurp/truck business. He bought 4 deuces, some 3/4 ton trucks, Blazers, trailers, generators, etc. at a G/L auction and is reselling it. He openly admitted he did not know much about the trucks and is not looking to stay in the business of reselling them. He said he had good luck selling the small trucks but hasn't sold a deuce yet, and has already lowered their prices. I don't know how much more negotiable he is.

The truck that I drove started great, ran well, and had excellent brakes. I intentionally stopped abruptly going down some hills and it did fine. The buzzer did sound for a while when the truck was first started, but held pressure after that. We stopped and looked the truck over for about 15 minutes and then restarted it, and no buzzer went off, but again, that was only about 15 minutes, so a small leak might not be noticeable at that point.

Unless I find a screamin' deal, I plan on having to drive the truck home (I'm poor), so I'm only looking to buy a road-worthy unit. Good brakes are a must. The parking brake on the unit I drove held it on a slight incline.

If it makes any difference, my intended use of the truck is primarily farm based - hauling junk around the farm, making trips to the feed store, hauling hay, etc. I would like to put a dump hoist on the bed at some point, but I don't plan on doing any heavy hauling with it, just making it easier to get junk/limbs/brush/dirt out of the bed.

I'm not sure if I have to have a winch or not, but I'll agree they did look cool. Is it easier to steer a truck without a winch than one that has a winch?

I was also able to drive the truck into a muddy field, get it in an awkward position and get it stuck (sort of - if we hadn't stopped, we would not have been stuck). The truck had an air-engaged front axle, so we did that and it climbed right out (like I said, we weren't really "stuck").

Thanks again for all the help. I'm sure I'll post more questions as I think of them. Take care.

 

[BKubu]

I suppose I took it for granted that the brakes work. As DITTLE said, brakes are kind of important so make sure the truck has brakes. I was assuming they worked fine when I generated my list.

 

[BFR]

Here are the things I'd look for in order of my preference: 1-rust-free; 2-strong running motor; 3-smooth shifting transmission; 4-air-shift front axle; 5-turbo motor (some guys prefer the C turbo because of the whistle)...the non-turbo trucks are great, too, but not many people want them so you will lower your resale value; 6-good tires (a set of new 900x20 tires will run you $1,000 plus mounting); 7-minimal oil leaks; 8-nice paint; 9-winch; 10-heater; 11-soft top (I am not a big hard top guy); 12-troop seats and headboard present. Please notice that I did not say anything about mileage or hours. These figures mean nothing...or at least very little. If the truck runs well, I'd take a high mileage/hour truck over a truck with low miles/hours if it did not run as well. Admittedly, if I had two identical trucks that scored high in each of the areas listed above, I would take the truck with lower miles/hours showing, but that would not be a huge factor. Your order may vary, but this is a start.

Good luck!

I think Bruce's list is well thought out, here is my version.
1. strong motor (turbo)
2. smooth tranny
3. airshift, or functional sprag (sometimes they don’t engage)
4. winch
5. leak free ( I have heard it is possible, but haven’t seen it)
6. tire condition (unless you are going to change sizes soon)
7. rust free
8. nice paint
9. top (I have a hardtop, but would rather have a soft)
10. troop seat parts
11. Hours/miles (I definitely agree with bruce on this one)