Deuce crankcase breather filter details

[cranetruck]

Images of the crankcae breather filter and how it is vented for recirculation (tube also acts as a support for the mushroom. It ends just below the mushroom).
The black hose for the air intake is not the fording kit hose, but a section of the personnel heater ducting.
I keep it permanently now as part of the "fording ready" config, running it above the windshield is a bit of an overkill IMHO.
The filter itself is a Racor "Crankvent" filter. It allows me to keep the crankcase breather at a high level above the water at all times (part of my "fording ready" configuration).
In the image you can also see the compressor air intake permanently connected to the engine air intake filter canister.
The filter sump collects about 1/10 of a quart of oil for every 1000 miles.

Bjorn

 

[Ugg013]

Bjorn:

COOL! What's the cost of the filter itself (and all needed fittings)?

 

[cranetruck]

Ugg, the filter is a Racor crankvent CV800. You may have to shop around for one, not exactly common. I found one at a Richmond Racor dealer and he was so happy to get it off the shelf that he gave me a $100 discount. Paid $199 for it.
Check marine places. They are good for engines that are enclosed and can not easily vent the fumes and goo to the street.
Here is source:
http://www.maesco.com/products/racor/r_ccv_intro/r_ccv_open/r_ccv_open.html

Fittings are regular brass and copper ones from your local bldg supply store.
Bjorn

 

[Ugg013]

Bjorn:

Thanks You, both for the info and pictures.

Later
Ugg

 

[rmgill]

Hey Bjorn, did you plumb the oil drain back to the engine?

 

[cranetruck]

No, the oil ends up in a "sump" in the lower part of the filter.

 

[Rattlehead]

Make your own?

What do these commercial filters consist of internally? I was thinking that if the gases were plumbed through a large canister and allowed to condense and collect, it may work. However, I doubt that it is this simple if they are getting $300 for commercial ones.

 

[clinto]

RE: Make your own?

Hey Bjorn,

Can you snap a few pics of your hose routing....or some more pics of the setup in general? I am about to do this and am not 100% clear on your install.

Thanks

C

 

[cranetruck]

RE: Make your own?

Clinto, I'll get some more pictures later today that may explain it better. The fuel tank vent also goes into the plumbing....

 

[Djfreema]

Bringing up an old thread to show my poor mans version of a crankcase filter. I get alot of blow by fumes in the cab while driving unless I have the windshield open to force the fumes out and fresh air in, plus after I shut the truck down the oil drips out of the vent tube and leaves an oil stain where ever I park. I cant see spending $300 on one of these commercial filters so I went to Lowe's and spent about $25 on some PVC, hose and steel wool. Used a petcock valve from my old primary fuel filter that has since been replaced with a spin on type. So far there are no more fumes in the cab. The vent tube enters the bottom of the filter then the fumes travel up through lots of packed steel wool and is vented back into the extra 1" opening on the air filter housing. There is no restriction when trying to blow through the assembly so it wont be creating any pressure inside the motor plus I think the slight vacuum inside the air filter canister will help suck out the fumes. I haven't driven it enough to see if the steel wool captures the oil mist to keep it from getting into the air filter assembly. The oil mist will hopefully gather on the wool and drip back to the bottom where it can be drained out using the petcock valve. If it doesnt work I am going to weld a bung into the exhaust and have it dump into the stack.

 

[frodobaggins]

opcorn:

 

[cranetruck]

Good work Devin! Reducing pollution is always a good thing.

A couple of observations:
1) Venting it into the air filter may set up conditions for engine runaway with fumes from the crankcase, which contain unburned fuel, oil etc. On the commercial filter, both inlet and outlet are on top and oil collects at the bottom. The filter element is foam rubber.
I compromised, by venting it below the air intake (second image above), so that the fumes are not sucked up at low engine rpm.

2) Recirculating 100% of the fumes may cause a carbon build-up on the turbo compressor blades.

For comparison, my 8x8, which was designed to swim without the addition of a "deep water fording" kit, has the engine crankcase pressurized with a valve on top of the valve covers, dumps all the crankcase fumes into the exhaust pipe at all times.

 

[jesusgatos]

...If it doesnt work I am going to weld a bung into the exhaust and have it dump into the stack.

That's what I've been thinking about doing. Seems like that would make a pretty clean setup. Any reason why that might not be a good idea? Maybe spitting out a little bit of oil? Could the vacuum cause any problems by creating a venturi effect?

 

[Keith_J]

Be careful with crankcase breathers...especially in very cold climates because water vapor will deposit, plugging it and causing crankcase pressure to build.

Never route the collected oil to the crankcase, it is full of water that collects. Also, it can be quite dirty.

Oil mist will not cause carbon buildup on the turbine nor will it cause dust to build up on the compressor. But if the mist is very great, it could cause a runaway condition. Drain the sump often, especially on home-brew solutions.

 

[hdexpert]

Good thread, thought a revival was in order!! I'll be doing a mod like this to my deuce sometime.

 

[cranetruck]

That's what I've been thinking about doing. Seems like that would make a pretty clean setup. Any reason why that might not be a good idea? Maybe spitting out a little bit of oil? Could the vacuum cause any problems by creating a venturi effect?

Here is an image of the 8x8 multi with the crankcase fumes drawn out with the exhaust. This was done for a minimum of preparations for the engine to work under water (swimming).

 

[tm america]

We run the crankcase vents itno the headers on race cars at a 45 degree angle works great for high revving motor .i have been trying different things with my truck.First i ran it into the air cleaner ...All i got was an air filter that changed into an oil filter.What i have on there now is this....I took the stock road draft tube and ran it back just below the air filter housing mounting.Then ran a piece of 1 1/4 hose out to a piece of 1 inch conduit i ran up along side on the exhuast pipe.Then i slide a standard breather vent inside the conduit to keep the rain water out
So far i found it works pretty good just have to keep an eye out that the oil does get into the vent for the mc and air pack...i diconnected the vent for now to see how much is coming out of there.It is working for now but i think i am gonna run the crankcase vent into the exhaust pipe and use the conduit to run all my other vents .I still think it would be best to come up with some way to separate the oil and run it back into the engine rather than spitting it out onto the car next to me?any ideas that won't cost an arm and a leg are greatly welcomed?

 

[jesusgatos]

Here is an image of the 8x8 multi with the crankcase fumes drawn out with the exhaust. This was done for a minimum of preparations for the engine to work under water (swimming).

Thanks again for hooking me up with that extra one Bjorn! Going on install it as soon as I do the LDS swap.