damaged glow plug module

[kc8oye]

First of all, can you guys tell me for sure if this is a military or civilian unit by looking at it?

2nd of all, it was fried by the dumbA$$ that had the truck before us by hooking the glow plug 'trigger' wire to the 12v junction post NEXT To the glow plug relay instead of the relay.. I'm guessing that it just smoked the kickback diode that clamps the voltage spikes when the relay de-energizes..

but if anyone could show me some of the same pictures of a good module I'd really appreciate it!! and if you could tell me of any markings on the fried component I'd appreciate that too.. I think this unit still works (the wait light does anyway) I'd like to repair the damage and see if we can salvage it... (I am able to repair printed circuit boards)

I will link to the pics since I'm not sure off hand what the size limits here are (they're resized to 800x600)

http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/NonMonte/wholeboard.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/NonMonte/burnt1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~kc8oye/NonMonte/burnt2.jpg

 

[digitaldust]

Color bands that should help

Resistor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
is the unit is mill it should be in side 2% tolerance on resistors 4th band
as a rule civ units are best 5% as a rule. you might already know that .

 

[ida34]

Military only unit. I do not have one to photograph for you but I think there have been past posts about fixing the board.

 

[kc8oye]

alright.. thank for the tip.. with as badly as this vehicle has been hacked up.. I try not to assume anything about any part of it!

we tried to start it the other day, and the starter would not stop cranking even after i let go of the key.. we disconnected the front battery.. and the starter STILL was cranking!
it finally stopped when we got the back battery disconnected .. and a fusible link was smoking well..
found the moron had the passenger side alternator connector rammed in backwards..
and basicly when that alternator grounded the idiot light terminal.. it instead shorted the +12v to the +24v rail.. and things got ugly

 

[kc8oye]

Resistor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
is the unit is mill it should be in side 2% tolerance on resistors 4th band
as a rule civ units are best 5% as a rule. you might already know that .

What is the value of said resistor?

and where at in flint, mi?

I know at a resistor is btw.. i just ASSUMED it was a diode based on where and how it was connected.. but since it's totally burned away, it's difficult to tell what it was..

please snap that pic if you would.. you can email them directly to me.. email should be available in my profile, if it isn't I can PM u with it.

 

[doghead]

Here's a pic, I had on my computer.

 

[ida34]

we tried to start it the other day, and the starter would not stop cranking even after i let go of the key.. we disconnected the front battery.. and the starter STILL was cranking!
i

Most of the time this is the symptom of a stuck relay. It happens to a lot of people. If it happens again hit the dash under the steering column. There is a relay under the dash near the column that takes the 12 volt impulse from the stock starter switch and converts it to 24 volt for the starter solenoid. There are two other relays both mounted to a strip. The relay sticks and when it does the starter continues until it self destructs. The relay is a stock gm Relay. The other relays on the strip control the second alternator and the volt gauge. This relay bank is also a military only thing although the relays themselves are stock off the shelf GM relays. Do a search and you will find the number for the relays.

 

[kc8oye]

Thanks for the info on the stuck relay.. I know the relay was there.. all 3 of us sort of went into a mild panic when the wiring started smoking lol. the boss was standing there panicing while I ran for wrenches for the batteries and his son ran for a fire extingisher..

we now have quick disconnects on both batteries.. what really concerned me tho.. is how that starter was still cranking on only the back battery!? some how that "24v" (rear) battery was getting a ground to the starter with the front battery disconnected.. looking at it later it seems like disconnecting the front battery first is a bad idea since it would appear that the rear battery can find 'ground' through the front alternator... (if I explained that the way I mean it)

 

[kc8oye]

ida34: i haven't been inside the dash of this truck yet, but there is a break in the wire from the relay back to the bulkhead connector and ultimately to the starter.. is this a common problem with these trucks? (and maybe somewhere specific I should look first?) anything is possible with what that moron has done to this poor truck!

doghead: Thanks for the pic.. it's definately a diode.. now I just have to figure out what size & type to replace it with and I might have a functional glow plug module again!

looking at it's size and shape and the way it's positioned in the circuit, I'm pretty sure it's a clamping diode.. and i could probably stuff a 1N4006 in there but i'm still hoping someone might be able to read the markings off one they have?

I really appreciate the help guys!

 

[doghead]

I will go look at some cards I have and report back.

 

[doghead]

Ok, I have a spare card here and the item that is burned in your picture is definitely a diode.

The "band" on the diode is towards the connector blade edge of the card(end that slides into the card holder).

There is a "60" over "935" printed on the diode. .

 

[kc8oye]

Thank you doghead! now to figure out WTF that number is lol

is printed somthing like this:

60
935


?

 

[doghead]

yes, exactly

 

[kc8oye]

alrighty.. time to dig the ol books out I guess.. thanks a bunch again!