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Compressor metal in engine

spentshell

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I pulled my bad compressor off today only to discover its guts puked out into the engine. Whats the best way to flush the engine out of the 1000 tiny pieces of metal that I am sure made its way into the oil? It also looks like the compressor was bone dry of oil, how can I tell if the oil is reaching the crank on the compressor?
 

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FMJ

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Well, during a compressor changeout people have been known to RTV over the passage that supplies oil to the compressor. . . I don't know of a good way to check other than cranking the motor over until evidence of oil appears at the supply hole on the base plate where the compressor mounts. After changing the oil I would attach a magnet to the drain plug and go from there. Good Luck!

You could also pour some Diesel down the oil return hole/opening where the parts went, after you drain the oil out, and see if it flushes anymore metal out.
 
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spentshell

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Well you just hit on the head FMJ, I pulled the compressor apart and found RTV blocking the passage. Amazingly it ran this way for about 1000 miles or so since I owned it.
 

doghead

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Funny thing is, if you wanted to plug that hole, you probably would not have trusted rtv to hold!
I think I will consider inspecting any new truck that has RTV that looks fresh, on the Air Compressor.
 

doghead

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Silicone sealant, "Gasket maker", RTV=Room Temperature Vulcanizing(type of silicone sealer).
 

Jake0147

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stupid question, whats RTV

Room Temperature Vulcanizing Silicone Sealer. Spooge gasket. It comes in a toothpaste tube or a cheeze whiz can, and in just about any color you can think of. Often mistaken by do-it-yourselfers as an acceptable solution to sourcing a replacement gasket. Often mistaken by do-it-yourselfers as a way to "help" gaskets seal. causing gaskets to fail, resulting in more liberal use of silicone (or complete omission of the gasket) the next time around and further supporting the notion that gaskets don't work and RTV is a miracle cure, since RTV by it's self is (typically) more reliable than a gasket that's been pretty much ruined by smearing RTV all over it.
Generally a good thing to have around, but best left in the back of the toolbox to use when it's appropriate, but not in the front of the toolbox as a front line weapon against leaks. With a few exceptions, if it's beneficial for something then a specific type of RTV will be called for. That specific type should be used. Kind of like engine oil, most people want to know which one is best so they can use it for everything, and discussion of specific properties and qualifications of any particular type or color is pretty much prohibited from internet discussion.
I'm slamming on the stuff pretty hard, but I will say that there's a few exceptions where RTV is quite acceptable as a substitute. Axle flange gasket replacement comes to mind. Of course there's nothing wrong with the gaskets either. But RTV silicone works exceptionally well here. But if you want to move to the high risk category for axle flange bolts loosening up and breaking in shear... Grease that new gasket up with a layer of silicone to "help" it make a better seal...
For most of the things it gets used for in the real world... Well.... It must have worked just fine, because I don't see an oil leak complaint to go with the pictures above... :roll: And if what you're sealing up doesn't have an oil passage through the middle of where the gasket is, consider the other picture. Compressor failure didn't disturb that gasket, and that chunk didn't make it through the compressor's oil passages. (nor did "the other chunk" apparently). That chunk came straight off of a joint somewhere all by it's self, presumably at the compressor base but possibly anywhere else in the engine that the same sealer was used.
 
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rat4spd

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I love aviation gasket cement. I don't know that I can think of a reason to use RTV on a good sealing surface other than when you want to mate the parts without a gasket, and even then you don't need much.
 

m-35tom

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jake is absolutely right..................now my 2¢

if you use silicone sealant for anything, you don't have the right to call yourself a mechanic. it causes far more problems that it ever solved. there are gasket makers that are quite good, and i used one ($40 a tube) for the oil pan on my TR8 with no gasket. but if there is a gasket involved, dry or with a very thin film of permatex 3H is all that is needed.

now as to your current problem, the oil pan is very easy to remove. take it off and flush everything off with cleaning solvent and a garden sprayer and a large pan. pull a couple of rod and main caps and inspect. not really that hard and it will give you lots of peace of mind or make you cry.

tom
 

zout

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back yard

Its for folks that have never learned to come out from under the tree in the back yard with the big branch and chain fall hanging from it.
Makes me want to invent SPRAY BONDO - just spray and fill that big hole - !!:roll:
using the proper gaskets and making sure mating surfaces are clean - some gaskets need to be pre soaked in oil - some do not.

As far as metal fragments in incubation stages in the engine - use good micron filters - I would change them now frequently - cut them open and start looking at what the filter is picking up in the "pleats".
The magnet was also a great suggestion and recommend highly for whatever it is worth (.02)
mechanical - man made - it can break new outa the box - one of life's training sessions.
 

WillWagner

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Tom has it down. You should drop the pan and clean it out. That stuff gets everywhere and it will HURT THE ENGINE. Buy the correct gasket from Memphis and put it on dry. A sealer like gasgasinch is OK but silicone will push the gasket out.
 

m-35tom

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also remember if no oil flow to comp there may not be much metal in bad places yet. but when you get that working, there will be.
 

FMJ

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also remember if no oil flow to comp there may not be much metal in bad places yet. but when you get that working, there will be.
The bottom of the Compressor is open directly to the pan, similar to the connecting rods, and mains, depends on how long the motor was run before the dead compressor was noticed. Hopefully the filters kept the small pieces from circulating back through and taking out soft metal. :-(
 
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