Fuse box and voltmeter issues

[HardCorps79]

So tonight I was trying to install a cigarette lighter, and rushed it after I didn't get a reply to my query on here. I checked all of the supposedly available 12v openings on the fuse box with the truck running, and none of them had any power. Then I tried running the lighter from the v-meter opening (not realizing it was 24v). Got a lot of sparks, but no go. Disconnected everything, and checked the fuse slots again: there was no power to that spot on the fuse box, or the only other open slot that had previously shown power. I still have dashlights and all my external lights, but it seems like half of my fuse box is shot.

And now, when I fire up the truck, the voltmeter on my dash is dead. So,

How bad is this? How do I fix it, and where do I get replacement parts?

(Is there a way to tell if the voltmeter in the dash is shot or if I blew something somewhere else?)

 

[lavarok]

Does your wait light and water in fuel light work? If not, check your engine control fuse. I believe it also plays a role in the voltmeter working or not.

 

[doghead]

You probably blew a fuse, look at the lowest fuse in the box.

 

[HardCorps79]

Well, the 28v 10amp fuse was blown so I replaced it. The engined control (20amp) fuse didn't look blown, but I replaced it anyway.

And still don't have WAIT light or WIF lights, either. (Course, it hasn't been cold enough today to have to wait, but neither is coming on upon startup)

Now what?

 

[doghead]

Is your engine cold? (not hot) They don't come on with a hot(operating temp) engine.

 

[HardCorps79]

Fairly warm still. Why?

 

[doghead]

If your engine is still warm, those lights don't come on.

 

[HardCorps79]

Check. So what do I need to do about repairing the voltmeter on the dash. Is there another fuse or a relay somewhere? Or is there a way to tell if the gauge itself is shot?

 

[bushhawg73]

I am working on mine also. I have removed the black gauge cluster cover. The volt meter has a disconnect plug approximately 4 inches from the gauge. Easy to hook a DVM to and see if you are getting voltage to the meter.

 

[HardCorps79]

I'll have to check that out, but it won't be until tomorrow after I get off work. Will report back.

 

[HardCorps79]

Well, this morning it was just below 50* when I went out to start the truck. It had been sitting all night, so engine was cold. On start up, no GP wait light, no WIF light. All other dash lights and external lights are good (except voltmeter). Is there a separate fuse or relay for these?

Truck started fine, but it seems like I'm gambling with my glowplugs as I can't tell if they're warming. I turned the key on and heard GP relay clunk, waited about ten seconds, shut it off, and then did the same thing again and then fired it up. Don't want to burn out my GPs, especially with colder weather on the horizon. Thisweek it's supposed to stay above freezing, but after that, who knows.

BTW, anyone know offhand cost/part numbers, etc for new fuse box and wiring harness?

 

[bushhawg73]

In the morning attach the red lead of a DVM to the bottom side (two orange wires) of the GP solenoid and the black to ground. With the key off you should have 0 voltage. Turn the key to the run position and you should get around 12 volts. Depending on your set up it may be higher for a few seconds but should level off around 12 volts. You can then see exactly how long the GP are getting voltage. If you do not like the results turn the key off and the power will be shut off to them.

We are working on the same thing at the moment. I to want to make sure I am not over running the GP's.

Gary

 

[HardCorps79]

Okay, so I tore into the dash tonight and here's the deal:

The bulbs for the wait light and wif are fine, but there's no power to the lines, even though the fuses for the dash lights are all good. Same thing with the voltmeter gauge ("v meter" 26v) slot on fuse box has no power now either.

Incidentally, I discovered that the socket for the bulb behind the fuel gauge isn't getting any power either, even though the other two (speedo and shift indicator) outlets are good. So, this means there's something blown or melted or whatever somewhere else along the line. GP relay still gives a good thunk when engine is cold, but no way to tell when the wait is over, which is bad considering colder temps are inevitable in the next couple weeks.

And just for fun, the needle on the speedo was bent backwards about 5 mph (no doubt by the ANG), and still showed faster than actual speed (clocked it with the GPS). Well, when I popped it off to check the bulbs, the needle went ahead and broke all the way. Anyone know a good place to get a new speedo needle/faceplate assemble? (Otherwise, I'll just paint a toothpick orange and glue it on I guess.)

The fun never ends with these old gals, does it.

 

[HardCorps79]

So, I'm wondering if it's possible to just bypass the fuse box and wire the WAIT and WIF lights, and Voltmeter directly to their sources with an inline fuse. What component controls/send to them? I'm completely lost when it comes to wiring diagrams.

 

[HardCorps79]

Bueller....Bueller....?
(*bump*)

 

[IGI]

Hi' I'm italian and I have a M1008. I was on the old forum but it's the first time I write on the new forum.

I need a fuse box diagram, can someone help me???

Thank you very much!!!

Luigi

 

[T_F_E]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/cucv/120295d1240358623-fuse-box-warning-fuse-box.jpg

 

[IGI]

Thank you very much!!!

 

[HardCorps79]

Well, after a certain Italian hijacked and killed my thread , I got to digging in the TMs (We should all start there, first, but sometimes a quick answer is nice, right?).

Went through the troubleshooting in the unit maintenance manual for the GP system and although I had checked my engine control fuse before, I hadn't checked the other 20amp for the ign as instructed by the TM. Pulled it out, and lo & behold, it was blown. Put a new one in, and my WAIT, WIF and Voltmeter Gauge are all back to life.

Glad it was such an easy fix. ALWAYS check the simplest and least expensive options, and always refer to the TMs. We've got some really great, really experienced guys on here, but no one can remember every last thing from several thousand pages. Lesson learned.

 

[IGI]

Well, after a certain Italian hijacked and killed my thread

Sorry, I wrote here to not open a new topic...

I have another question...

The M1008 voltmeter is the same of the M series (like M151 etc. etc.)?