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Advice on picking "Motors in the Can"...

opie65

New member
73
0
0
Location
Huntsville, AL
After leaving at 6 am and driving 3.5 hours, only to find the "New LDT and LDS" in a can were total junk, I thought I would run a few things past you guys.

1) When I see a Motor in Can (Shipping Crate) with no Clutch, I say it is a Pull Out Engine. T/F

2) Motor without Caps on the Turbo or Coolant Lines, Pull Out? T/F

3) Motor With Coolant Hoses Attached, Pull Out?

4) Green Motor with Sand Paint on the Pan and IP, where it was painted in the Truck. Could it be a rebuild or a ..... Pull Out?

Also, if you have a GOOD LDT, or LDS, please let me know. LDT is best, but since I have to swap it out anyway, an LDS would be the same.

Thanks Guys!
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
1,423
26
48
Location
Trevorton / PA
I have two good engines here in PA one is an LDT with a d turbo and the other is a LD naturally asperated. LEt me know if you are interested. Both engines will start and run, both are still in the trucks. The LDT is still driveable.
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,580
218
63
Location
Dickson,TN
I've got a good running LDT with "C" turbo for sale in TN. It's still in the truck and can be ran.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
My rebuilt LDT had the clutch, bearing and fan in the can, but not on the motor.
Ok, now when I read that the first time I read, "My rebuilt LDT had the clutch, bearing and fan in the can, but no motor."

Which was way funnier than what you really wrote.

-Chuck (time to clean my reading glasses!)
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Whatch out for cans that have water in the bottom of them. I got one like that and had rust on the rocker arms when I looked in the oil fill cap. .02
 

derby

Member
819
10
18
Location
S.E. MI.
I bought a engine in a can, it was a T/O. It looked good, newer shiny bolts, and clean. What i found when i installed it was a bad gov in the IP and a crack in the IP mounting plate caused by pinching the oil line. which is propably what caused the problem in the IP. I replaced the IP,oil line and mounting bracket and it is a great running engine. It also had a rebuild tag with all STD. rods and mains. What is wrong with your engine? I might know of an engine for you. I have some misc. parts and I am just down the road.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
295
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Preview in person. I had a friend buy a 6.2L from Warner Robins. Pics online looked fantastic, and had plastic caps on every opening. Turns out, it was from and Air Force HMMWV and had many miles and a piston with a hole burned through it. He paid $600 and probably still will come out ahead with the costs of reconditioning but the lesson is not to buy sight unseen. GL knows how to take pictures of only the good and list the bad facts. Live and learn is all I can tell my buddy.
 

opie65

New member
73
0
0
Location
Huntsville, AL
Whatch out for cans that have water in the bottom of them. I got one like that and had rust on the rocker arms when I looked in the oil fill cap. .02
Hey, you might have gotten the ones I looked at last Saturday! (I know what you mean, the Oil Cap was rusted on. I had to two-hand it off.)
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Nah, I have not got a motor in about a month or two. I do have plans to check some out in Ky sometime soon though.
 
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