Sorry for the delay, here is the one i made out of some angle iron, 2" square tube and 1" bolts.
the bolts are expensive so you'll likely want to use something else for pivots. The 1" are way overkill and wasteful, but i had em and didnt want to run all the way to the hardware store. (1.5 miles)
If i was building another one and had an unlimited supply of 1/2" dia bolts i would probably use 1/2" bolts on the pivots. Under a double shear they will be plenty strong.
I picked up a cheap tow adapter from somewhere. Honestly i probably stole it from a friend while they were not looking. Warn makes one for like $50, but just get some cheapo from the internet store for $14 if you can find it. You dont even need the shackle for this project but im sure you'll fine a use for it somewhere. I would suggest using a 1" bolt for the front shackle pivot and you will need to drill it out to size. the one i stole was a hot punched hole and varied from just under 1/2" to just under 3/4" on the other end. I drilled it to 1" and said "im done with you!"
The shackle mounts on MY cucv are about 1.5" wide so there is slop because i used 2" square tube. I use some large washers to take up the space because i wanted to be able to road race the streets of Malibu with my truck in tow. Tokyo Drift baby!!!
"Normal" people under "normal" circumstances will not have any issue with the extra room, but i think i fall a bit outside that description and i like to be careful.
As you can see i boxed the snot out of the front receiver pivot. On the previous towbar i built i did not box this section very well and the pivot is under an extreme amount of force if you try to back up with the truck in tow. The default answer is you CANNOT back with a truck being flat towed. In reality you can, a little but when you do the towbar is under a significant side load and something will break wherever the weak point is. If you are on gravel the towed vehicle's tires will slide, (or your towing truck rear tires will) but its not a situation you should put yourself in.
Or if you are an idiot like me, just box the crap out of it and reverse to your hearts delight. Then when it breaks as you are trying to back up in some hick town in the middle of west texas millions of miles from home you can say to yourself "yup, i was told not to back while flat towing. That was dumb. now where can i find some jumper cables and nickles to weld this back together"
you can use pins, but i prefer to use long bolts with a non threaded portion to act as the pivot. then i tighten everything up and there is no play what-so-ever which makes towning soo much nicer. You will need to buy 4" long bolts and cut them down, but i think this is a much better method than using pins because over time if you have any slop in your pivots and travel many miles on rough roads things will get looser and the holes will start to get blown out. Once that happens things get worse till stuff starts breaking.
the shackle pins on the front of MY cucv are 1" diameter, apparently there are some out there that are 3/4, so measure yours.
otherwise i think thats about it.
