IMA944T
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Anybody know the BTUs and the CFMs that heater and fan puts out out on one?
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I had one unit with a test card that included electrical amps, volts, fuel flow rate, pressue, venturi, inlet/outlet temperature, air flow, btu output, combustion air pitot and exhaust. It showed outlet temp as 200F/339F (Low/High) and BTU as 14,128/27,962. I don't remember the CFMs but might be able to look it up.Anybody know the BTUs and the CFMs that heater and fan puts out out on one?
After you get yours sold, I have about 6 heaters left. A couple of heater units only and a couple of complete kits, soup to nuts.The arctic heaters that I have are 30,000 BTU. I have one left. Should be listed in the classifieds.
You'll need the orange colored "SCAT" silicone type ducting (see image).Does the artic heater mount where the water type heaters go? What kind of duct doesn't burn up with almost 300 degree heat?? I guess the $400.00 isn't bad then. I would like to know the difference between the two heaters listed are.
And when you say 15000 and 30000 BTU does it only have a high and low temp setting or is it variable between these settings.
BjornAny potential problem with using engine compartment air? I think I would add ducting to get fresh air.
My only concern would be contamination since you are breathing the air...no effect on heater operation.Bjorn
Are the heaters you use pulling fresh air from a outside source? I think it would be a benifit to have outside air but I wonder how it would affect the heater operation.
The temperature is related to the calibration of the fuel control valve and can be seen from James' (M1075) post above, your output temp agrees with the "HI" setting.Maybe that is why the air coming out of the diverter is 320deg. Maybe getting cooler air into it would cool it down a bit.The arctic heater kit actually comes with a cover to put over the air intake by the fender, but I do like the idea of fresh air.
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