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flipping the center-sections in riveted wheels

jesusgatos

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Sorry, wasn't trying to be cryptic. I just bolted the center-section onto the hub (as shown), then used a square and a sharpie pen to mark a line 1" in from the lip, all the way around the wheel. Then I used a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove that ring (shown llaying up against the center-section). I cut it freehand, but rotated the hub/wheel as I cut, to keep it in a comfortable position.

Here again, there are a number of other ways a person could do this. I'm just doing the best I can with the tools I've got with me right now. I moved out of my house a shop a few months ago, and I'm doing all this work in my parents' driveway. the neighbors love it...
 

jesusgatos

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Got all of the center-sections cut out, and all of the holes in the rim-shells welded-up. Just finished grinding down the welds on one of the rim shells, and pressed-in a center-section to see how it fits on Mah Deuce. I set the backspacing at 6" and that's going to put the outside edges of the front tires just barely outside the front fender. If I was having custom wheels made, I'd probably spec something more like 7-8" backspacing, but over all I'm really happy with how these wheels are turning out and I can't beat the price!
 

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number9

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Looking forward to see how they look on the truck with the T831's.

I don't remember if you said or not, but with these wheels modified in this way and the hubs flipped on the rear, won't they set out about the same as leaving the hubs in stock location and running the stock wheel in the outer position?

ETA - just went back and read again and you want the track width to be the same. Sorry for asking again.

Still looking forward to seeing the end result.

.....
 
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number9

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Hmmm...... I really like this thread. I want to single my truck out, but would like to do it in a way that it would look good with 11.00's or something other than the big ole 395's.

Looking at the diagrams gringeltaube posted in the other threads, it looks like flipping the centers on the front wheels and running the rear hubs stock with the outer stock wheel would equal about the same track width.

Pic shows the flipped center wheels on the front to give a track width of 87.5".

Other pic shows the rear stock hubs at 69", then add 10.5" width for each stock wheel in outer position for a total of 21"....... would give rear track of around 90"....... eh, still ain't the same width - sorry. BUT, only 2 1/2" different, or 1 1/4" each side.

Based upon how your truck looks when done, I may look at going that route. Flipping hubs and flipping centers would be a little too much work for 1 1/4" gain for me though. I'd like the dish look on the rears too I think.

Either way, you're doing great work and have us on our seats watching your progress. [thumbzup]

...........
 

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gringeltaube

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I'm attempting to true-up this first wheel, and I'm only able to get it within about an 1/8". I didn't check any of the stock wheels before I cut them apart, and I'm wondering how straight do these things run.
They can be worse than that regarding both, lateral and radially...!
Now, getting them true within 3/32" is not an easy task but you should be able to reduce at least the wobble of your new creations to almost cero.
BTW, ....you did check that your testing hub turns perfectly true, didn't you? See if your wheel runs straight no matter at which of the 6 positions it is mounted.

G.
 

Jakob

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That could be the problem. If the hub isn't trued up, then the wheel is going to be off no matter what. Great work though, I know my truck has at least 1 riveted wheel and I've had this same thought. It never got further than that though.
 

jesusgatos

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I got the wheel down to about 1/8" out (true & hops). Couldn't do any better than that because there were actually flat spots and inconsistencies in the wheel shell. I took a couple of videos to show you guys how I was truing it, but this site won't let me attach .MP4 files, and I can't access my server where I would normally upload those kinds of files. I'll try later.

EDIT: Here are those videos - video 1 & video 2

Anyway, here's what the first wheel looks like with an 11.00 Firestone T831 radial tire mounted. This is the first time I've ever mounted a tire on a multi-piece wheel (not counting regular bead-locked wheels). What a breeze. I'm kinda liking these things.

Please don't pay too much attention to the welds. The welds on the backside are bomber, and I was experimenting with different techniques on the frontside, trying to figure out what's going to make the best looking weld. Think I might end-up pulse-welding the frontsides. Or maybe just building up a thick enough weld to grind-out smooth. Not sure yet. But this was my practice wheel (worst looking, rustiest shell & center-section).
 
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jesusgatos

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on the road - in CA right now
And here's what it looks like mounted on the front of Mah Deuce. I'm pretty happy with how it sits. I think I might be able to squeeze another .5" of backspacing into these wheels too, for a total of 6.5" (this wheel has 6"). Would be nice if I could get the tires a little bit closer to flush with the front fenders, and I've like to reduce my scrub radius as much as I can. In any case, I think this is definitely the best wheel/tire option for me right now. I'll post more pictures after I get the rest of the wheels put together, sandblasted, painted, mounted, and installed. Might be a while...
 

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