Trailer plug junction question

[Warren Lovell]

Is this the standard type plug you all have on your M1009s?

I went to NAPA to get the recommended T adapter and it doesn't fit.

Any suggestions?

 

[Midnight Rider]

That's not where you put the trailer plug adapter from NAPA. The T shaped adapter connects to the round plugs that are behind the driver's side rear wheel. This is where I connected mine at least and it works.

I think those connections are specific to the military plug on the CUCV's. I don't think you can plug anything in there. I'm not positive on that though.

I think someone had pictures in a previous post, I could be wrong though.

 

[Warren Lovell]

I went to Napa and looked in their Belden catalog. I ordered up the matching connector (got to put in the pins). it was like $2.00 for the connector. I'll wire it up to the civy trailer harness on my M762 until the stock lights and harness come in.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[lavarok]

I've said it before and I'll say it again:

For civilian trailer connectors, I just use the blue trailer splice connectors. There are two wiring harnesses that connect to the military trailer plug. On the vehicle side harness, behind the bumper is where I connect. One harness has the black, yellow, and brown/white. The other has green, brown, and green/white.

Connect:
green to green
brown to brown
yellow to yellow
white to black ( ground )

 

[jmassenga]

The connectors pictured are weatherpack connectors. You can get the plugs, seals, and pins at Napa and attach them to whatever pre-wired trailer plug you want. And for those wondering which terminals are for what:

 

[Warthog]

I've said it before and I'll say it again:

For civilian trailer connectors, I just use the blue trailer splice connectors.

The blue connectors have their place but I don't like to use them on trailer wires.

The reason is the connectors are NOT water tight and being on the back bumper they are exposed to ALOT of water. This allows moisture to enter the copper wire and corrode them.

I have had to troubleshoot many electrical problems and repair the damage done by these connectors. Not a fun task.

Yes the connectors are fast and easy, but the problems caused far out weigh the advantages.

 

[topgun217]

I have to agree with Warthog. I used the "blue trailer splice connectors" on a trailer for the jet ski's, (not what your thing happened) It rained the night I put them on, the next day I was loaded and ready to go to the lake and I spent the next 3 hours wondering why I had no trailer lights take the time and do it right it'll save you a headache and time lost.

 

[AndrewH]

The anti-blue-connector bandwagon

Im going to join the anti-blue connector club. I work at a marina and there is a launch ramp next door. The blue (and red, and yellow, and white.......) smash-on-thru-the -wire connectors are fine for some uses where they will be protected and dry. Please don't use them on your vehicle where they will be wet and exposed. Especially in wintery, salted conditions. I know they are included with some kits. Like some of the "Hoppy" trailer wiring kits and bulldog remote starters. Water tight connectors are not expensive and the extra time to install will be nothing compared to the time spent replacing the corroded and broken wires. Maby I shouldn't post this. Those little connectors make good work for people like me......... -Andrewh

 

[SPECIALTYLC]

I just removed the wires from the military trailer connector ,drilled a hole in the bumper for a regular 7 pin receptacle. . Not like im going to be pulling a military trailer.

 

[lavarok]

You guys make a compelling argument against the cheap splice connectors. I suppose some properly placed heat shrink tubing and/or liquid electrical tape will help mitigate any water infiltration. I think I have some heat shrink tubing large enough to slide over the whole assembly.

In a perfect world, a weatherpack setup could be made to plug in between the existing harnesses similar as described in post #5 but acting as a tap so the military trailer plug still works. I tow both civy and military trailers so like to have them both working.

 

[Crash_AF]

In a perfect world, a weatherpack setup could be made to plug in between the existing harnesses similar as described in post #5 but acting as a tap so the military trailer plug still works. I tow both civy and military trailers so like to have them both working.

That's what I did, I bought two matching sets of weatherpack connectors from NAPA and made my own T that goes between the factory plugs, easy peasy and works just fine with no damage to the Mil plug or truck's wiring harness.

And yes, those blue 'parasites' are the devil... I avoid them at all costs.

Later,
Joe

 

[Screamin' Metal]

Warthog and Topgun get the bottle of Scotch! I HATE messing with wiring thats gonna get damp and muddy...it just seems like a poor design standpoint cause I gotta mess with them alot and I hate it.

Heres something you acn do to keep you connectors dry and clean and its not that hard. I install these things and I've had folks call me to find out where to get the stuff to do it.

I use the connector where your gonna tap into, unplug the harness where its closest to the frame where the bumper bolts up. Clean it really good. Now.....open your Fastenal book, and look in the electrical section. Theres the large electrical box thats made of a heavy clear plastic with removavle cover and (3) waterproof inlet openings.

Here's the beauty of these things......mount the box where the harness can fit thru the openings, then mount the box. Get your little heatshrink tubing and soldering iron.....fasten up your 4 or 5 wires for your trailer......this box has a built in terminal strip....they're used on large trucks and can withstand years of abuse and pressurewashing.......hook up your wires to the terminals.....mount whatever plug you want and whereever you want......just run the pigtails into this box and hookup at the terminal strip........

corrosion and mud interfering with your connections will be a thing of the past. Yes.....its a ass to hook up.....but once done.....you won't have to worry with it ever agian.....unless you snag your plug on a stump and pull it off.....

And inside your plug, if you use the round 5 or 7 pin plug, after you make your connections inside it and slide it into the housing.....shoot the housing full of silicon sealant so water can't get in......mount your plug.....sand use the rest of the tube to completely seal the openings going into your connection box.

I have a 8 yr. installation that gets pressurewashed once a week, is used 4 out of 5 days of severe usage with a game warden going all over tarnation with his CUCV......and no problem with his trailer plug....he pulls his trailer one day a week.......only wish I had as much good luck with his front axle seals and joints! Ha!

 

[topgun217]

I'll share my half of the bottle with Screamin' Metal ! I like that idea plus they just opened a new Fastenal across the road from my office so when I get ready to make my connections I'll be going there....Thanks Screamin'Metal for sharing the great idea.

 

[Screamin' Metal]

Here's the info on the box you want....
Fasternal Blue Book vol. 9, fleet and auto electrical, page 4-40, Philips clear-vu junction box, part # 0715405.....
hope this helps.........