• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Axle plug won't budge

3rdmdqm

Active member
434
113
43
Location
Woodbine Maryland
When checking the axle fluid lvels, one of the fill plugs won't budge. Tried breaker bar, socket wrench, socket wrench with hammer. It also looks like the square center is starting to round out. Any suggestions?
 

aspann

Member
181
1
16
Location
Elba/Al
I had the same problem. I took it to a mech. and he couldn't get it out either, so he welded a nut to it and no more problem.
 

tm america

Active member
2,600
24
38
Location
merrillville in
yep heat is your friend .heat the plug till it is red hotthen let it cool.they ussually come right out when you do that if not you can heat around the plug and put pressure on it till you get it hot enough to start moving
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
1,423
26
48
Location
Trevorton / PA
When you heat the plug and let it cool the plug will actually shrink a little bit. You will also take the strength out of the plug so it might strip a bit easier.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,518
2,698
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
There is a tool made to take them out. A 1/2 inch drive tool won't go in all the way 'cause of the ball. You can use a chisel to remove it.
 

LanceRobson

Well-known member
1,638
206
63
Location
Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
I use a length of half inch high strength key stock. Drive it in with a hammer, put a lot of heat on the area around the plug (you want the pumpkin to expand, not the plug) and grip the key stock close to the plug with a 12" adjustable wrench. If that doesn't work. follow the above advice and clean the crud off of the plug and weld a nut to it.

Lance
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,165
71
48
Location
Louisville, KY
All of the above but perhaps try this first as I had the same problem.

I used a 1/2 drive impact wrench with the 1/2 square tool and turned the air way down and just let it vibrate the plug a little at first while it is trying to turn as well. I put lot's of pressure on it and after about 30 seconds it broke free.

I also had to do this on the transmission filler plug too but it is bigger than 1/2 inch.

Good luck,
jimm1009
 

tm america

Active member
2,600
24
38
Location
merrillville in
the heat does shrink the pull thats what causes it to break free. but it cools slowly as it is in oil . which is how metal is hardened . if you threw water on it to cool it .that would make it softer and easier to strip .
 

Autocar

Member
260
16
18
Location
California
You are better off heating the plug instead of the housing. Anytime you heat steel red hot, you bake some of the carbon(which gives steel its strength) out, so it weakens the steel. When you heat the plug, it tries to expand but it is clamped by the housing. Once the plug gets red hot, it yields and relieves the pressure from trying to expand against the cold housing. After the plug cools, it shrinks(contracts) and gets clearance between the plug threads and the housing threads and then it comes right out. The heating also breaks loose any crap(rust, paint, etc.) in the threads that might be holding the plug in. If the plug gets soft or ruined-easy to replace.
 

tiger422

New member
323
1
0
Location
Lakeland/Florida
the heat does shrink the pull thats what causes it to break free. but it cools slowly as it is in oil . which is how metal is hardened . if you threw water on it to cool it .that would make it softer and easier to strip .
I don't know where you get your info but heat expands and cold shrinks.
Jim
 

Westex

Member
579
6
18
Location
El Paso, TX
Wow. This is interesting. Heat the plug versus heat the housing. Heat=expand. Cherry red steel= soft. (Soft plug 1/2 inch hole will booger). How about heating the housing lightly just around the plug exterior, then being ready with a 3/4 " air impact or better yet a 1" impact and get it out. I do not advocate too much heat on that housing. Try soaking the plug the night before with oil penetrant. Tap on it a little bit to let the penetrant vibrate into the threads.
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,576
211
63
Location
Dickson,TN
Good info, what about the plugs on the winch? Mine are covered in paint. Any ideas same approach use heat?
Don't try and heat the winch housing red hot. It's AL and will not turn red hot, it will just melt and fall onto the floor :wink:. If I was going to use any heat at all I'd heat the plug. Even then I'd be careful. It's hard to tell when AL is going to melt.

As Will said, a chisel will usually work. Just hit it on the egde and break it loose.
 

Oilleaker1

New member
144
3
0
Location
Crook City SD
Heat is good, but if you have the hammer-type impact screwdriver used to remove and install motorcycle case screws, pull off the adaptor and it should be 1/2 inch drive. Try it next with a 2 lb hammer. Heat the area around the plug ( not on the winch which is aluminum ) , and it should come. I've had excellent luck with mine! John
 

The G Man

New member
156
0
0
Location
Kentucky North/Central
:grd: I always found a old breaker bar without the ball worked good. Good fit and if it didnit work with a some pressure and a few chose words, I used a little heat. Seems like some Dumb@$$ mechanics used to use lock tight on them... Just my opinion
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks