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Cut a Hole the the Bed to access the Sending Unit & Strainer/Sock

CUCV85

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As I believe it was Westech who quoted a while back that you can get to the Fuel Sending Unit and the strainer/screen/sock by cutting a hole in your bed.
Here are some pictures courtesy my Brother Mark69k20 sent to me for a family member having issues with start up. We see no fuel leaks anywhere and have replaced the Fuel Lift Pump. Once it starts it runs perfectly and starts perfectly after initial start up. It's obviously loosing prime and/OR has crap built up somewhere prior to feed/lift pump!? Glow plugs are brand new, fuel IP is great, I have yet to check the Fuel return valve (has "Loop" hose attached)
I do remember someone saying that if someone where to say remove the glass ball there to get the IP to run a while longer - prime can be lost over night this way! I hope to find that glass ball in there or the steel ball (newer replacement) Better yet to find it clean with no rubber parts/bits! <--- Sign of a failing pump, internal seal crapping...
 

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papercu

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Once it starts it runs perfectly and starts perfectly after initial start up.
What are you doing to make it start the first time? The running fine after a first start also sounds like bad glow plugs if the weather is hot where you are.
Cutting a hole seems a little overkill, while it is not fun getting to the pump, dropping the tank or even lifting the bed is not that hard. IMO. Good luck, Wayne
 

niferous

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I dropped my tank and I'm glad I did. It was a huge pain in the butt but when I did so I found out that lines where getting old so I replaced all of those. Now it's got the new sending unit and some nice new lines. Unfortunately now that the sending unit works I can tell it needs a new fuel gauge as the one that's in there now bounces all over the place and I've cleaned all the grounds.
 

Westech

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I try to remove the box when able( on the pick up's). I know on the older trucks sometimes the bolts can be rusted in and there not going to come out with out cutting and or having to repair the bed. When I have cut a hole I used a 5 inch hole saw. Makes things a lot ezer to weld back in and is just "cleaner". Now it would be a good ideal to clean out the tank also if when you pull out the sending unit and the filter screen is plugged with crap. Some people might get on your case for doing so and say just to drop the tank, but if you are not in to replacing straps, mounts, filler neck hose (about 30 bucks) cutting a hole is fine. It works just as well. And you can make a "trap door" like the master cylinder on a deuce for future work.
 
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doghead

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Welding that back in might compromise the new hoses. It will at least, drop a few sparks down.
 

CUCV85

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I know the plugs are good, I put them in. The old ones tested fine with the test light end to the tip of the GP & alligator clip to diamond shaped 12 volt terminal block (right above GPR). 75 year old Grandfather wanted brand new plugs regardless, at the same time I did the 12 volt Resistors bypass to eliminate any "Resistors issue" in the future. Yes it started the same before and after the resistors bypass. So ultimately 12 volts and no more, are supplied to brand new Wellman 070 GP'S to answer your question. I changed them out per Grandfathers request and prior to learning that Wellman 050's are the same cost and recommended for a 12 volt supply such as after performing the "resistors bypass." The wait to start light is illuminated longer after the resistors bypass but that is the only difference. You still have to floor it and crank for 10-15 seconds 80 degrees or 40 degrees doesn't matter. I told him not to cycle the plugs because that was what I was taught.
 

CUCV85

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Welding that back in might compromise the new hoses. It will at least, drop a few sparks down.
Well for sure you want to put a plate or cover of some sort over the sending unit and hoses. if you don't you could blow up.
I was thinking a piece of thin steel
or diamond plate perhaps then
a few self tapping screws
and some pop rivets for good measure and wall lah[thumbzup]
HA HA HA Boom! rofl
It's called water water water and plasma cutter like brother
used on a tear down.
I'll probably use the hole saw method as stated - much safer!
 

clinto

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We always just remove the bed. A few bolts and a couple of strong guys (or an engine hoist) and voila.
 

doghead

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M1009 here, I am assuming.

Your truck should definitely start better than it is now.
 

sirleaksalot

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boommm, no way its not gasoline. have you ever had diesel on the ground and tried to get it to light? I would not use a plasma either (which I have) due to falling slagg on hoses and such. a pilot hole and the air nippers...... the Idea of a access plate for future is a must from the sound of things.
 

CUCV85

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do for a diesel

What does "flooring it" do for a diesel? Wayne
I don't know wayne just have to. :deadhorse:
Initially If you just Turn The Key NO START
It's not mine it's my 75 yr old Grandfathers he runs it almost DAILY
I have started it only by holding the pedal to the floor! He says he does every day crank for up to 20 seconds! I can't believe he hasn't had to rebuild/replace his starter yet!!!
I don't see any fuel leaks what so ever and it has a brand new lift/feed pump, new fuel filter,new (s603 GPR) aka "st85" and resistors bypass performed with new Wellman 070 GP's. It's starts EXACTLY the same as it did the day he got it from GL. I've tried to diagnosis it the best I can and replace as much inexpensive parts as I can in as little of time that I have when I visit him. My Brother is a C-5 Jet Engine Mechanic USAF he has racked his brain on the "ISSUE"
We both have come up with the same diagnosis to get at that tank screen... Adam
 
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