Cutting off the tandems

[KsM715]

Guys Ive been searching for a week but cant find where anyone has done it this way.

I started to work on bobbing my deuce (Finally!!) I removed he bed, no problem, used a grinder with a 36 grit flap wheel and knocked the heads of the rivets holding the rear crossmember w/pintle hitch and drove the rivets out with a bfh and punch. Now my problem, I cannot get the rivets holding the frame brace on the tandems to budge. I even tore a tendon or ligiment in my elbo doing this. Now I have "tennis elbo" and cannot swing a hammer with out serious pain. I went and got a torch set and tried cutting the heads off then heating the rivet up and using a air hammer and still no go. What I want to know is, has anyone cut the plate along (actually just below) the frame with torch and removed the tandems that way? I know I still have rivets and bolts on the bottom to deal with but I figured I could grind the heads off and lift the rear of the truck and use the weight of the rear axles to help pull the rivets down while hammering on them. Will the heat from the torch do any damage to the frame? Im sure I can keep the cut line below the frame with out cutting into the frame.

Thanks
Jeff

 

[wehring]

call me tomorrow

call me tomorrow and I will talk you through my tricks I have bled to learn while bobbing these things.

justin wehring
979 997 3112

 

[asgtoolman]

call me tomorrow and I will talk you through my tricks I have bled to learn while bobbing these things.

justin wehring
979 997 3112

That sounds like an offer no one could/should refuse!!
That's what I like about the MV community!!

 

[mikew]

Use a cutting torch to burn the centers out then an air chisel to knock them out.

Instructions here: How to Bob a Deuce.... In 3 Easy Steps Click on any picture to get details.

 

[Recovry4x4]

They are hot rivets. Expand inside the hole. Easiest way to remove them is to relieve that area by either blowing a hole into the rivet body with the gas hatchet or drilling same to relieve pressure!

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Sometimes the parts don't just fall off. Cut the plate with a torch or plasma cutter just below the frame and then put a chisel or wedge between the remaining plate and use it to pry them off.

 

[KsM715]

I drilled one tonight just to try it with the bfh, but after 10 min of swinging I had to give up. My elbo just cant take it. The Dr said it might take a month or more to heal but I just dont want to wait anymore. Tomorrow morning I may try heating the drilled rivet then putting the air hammer to it.

 

[KsM715]

Sometimes the parts don't just fall off. Cut the plate with a torch or plasma cutter just below the frame and then put a chisel or wedge between the remaining plate and use it to pry them off.

Thats the new plan if the air hammer doesnt work.


If I drill the centers to about a half in. depth, how hot can I get them with out doing any damage to the frame itself?

Or do I need to drill them all the way thru? I would think that drilling as deep as the plate and the frame would be good enough and leave enough material on the inside to put the punch against to hammer on.

 

[KsM715]

Use a cutting torch to burn the centers out then an air chisel to knock them out.

Instructions here: How to Bob a Deuce.... In 3 Easy Steps Click on any picture to get details.

I looked at your site and thats when I went and scrapped enough copper to go get a torch set up. I thought for sure I'd be done by that afternoon. Boy was I wrong

 

[Recovry4x4]

Can I add that the brand of air hammer has a huge impact on outcome. My Mac air hammer knocks the crap out of my Husky (box store) brand hands down.

 

[m16ty]

Use a cutting torch to burn the centers out then an air chisel to knock them out.

This is what I do. Works like a charm. Blowing a hole in them does two things. It softens the rivets and also gives it some relief in the hole.

If I was closer to you I'd come by and swing the hammer for you.

 

[mikew]

The weight of the tandems will not pull it all loose.

Put a bottle jack between the frame crossmember and the "tube" that goes from one side of the tandem to the other (don't know the official name for that part). Use some wood blocks to spread the load and do one side then the other. It will come apart with a loud bang!

 

[DUECE-COUPE]

i use a small chisel between the frame and the walking beam frame. if you use a small one, you can get it in with a few well placed wacks with a bfh. after you start the separation of the peices, you can use a larger chisel or a tanker bar to get them apart. make sure you jack up the truck and put jack stands up front by the fuel tank and spare tire holder. if you put them any where else, you will have to move them you get the walking beam and axle/ tires out of the way.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have a rivet gun that WILL knock them out. I can fit it in a flat rate box and send it if you want. You will want to use ear plugs AND muffs together.

 

[m16ty]

This is what I do. Works like a charm. Blowing a hole in them does two things. It softens the rivets and also gives it some relief in the hole.

Gimpy, You posting on this thread reminds me of when you were down at my place and we were doing this to the front spring rivets. I was swinging the hammer and trying to talk your buddy from Clarksville into holding the punch. He didn't seem to keen on the idea.

 

[gimpyrobb]

He isn't the most "mechanically" inclined. It scared the heck out of me the first time I did it though.

 

[hemichallenger]

I also cut the heads off the side plates and the bottom rivets. I then raise the back of the truck with a forklift. Them i usea mac air hammer with a thin chisel between the frame and bracket to open it up . Then a big chisel and sledge hammer. Once you get the side plates off i then take the air hammer and and do the same to the bottom rivets and bolts. It takes about an hour to get them out driveshaft, brake lines and just roll the tandems out the back. My first one took a half a day till i did it like this.

 

[zout]

If your right handed and swing a BFH with that hand - how many times have you hit your left hand right behind the thumb - if you had not hit it in years and then you smack ti again - you would swear you had just hit it - cause it seems to never heal
Always loved when a air hammer fired up in the shop - it was probably the most annoying air tool in existance inside a shop to listen to. Second most annoying was listening to the air hammering of "buck riveting" panels inside a shop.

Sounds from all the advise you are dead on target for your project - all the members had straight advise.
I use to shorten and lengthen frames - install inner liners in frames. Use to build "glider" kits from the ground up with all manners of boxes and beds on them along with the hydraulices and components.

Make sure your measurements are DEAD NUTS when you start to re-drill your frame.
Post some pictures of your project -

Almost all the newer frames have what is called "huck bolts" these look like threaded rivets and then hydraulically the collard is sucked onto the threaded rivet then crimmped when it is tighter than the grip of god.

 

[Floridianson]

Don't know why you are having so many problem. The side plate rivets heads blow right off. The rivets that give you problems are the ones that are inside the frame and in the pocketts. They are the hard ones to reach and the torch does not like working into a pockett. After you blow off all heads on side plate and pockett rivets I used and axe head and placed it between the frame and axle side plate and it poped right off. Then I lifted the truck and used the axe head between the frame and tandem set hit it with a BFH and the axle was out . Then I go back and clean up all rivets with the torch and use and air hammer to remove them from the frame. I did not have to blow holes or drill the rivets before removing them from the Deuce. Now if you want to play with some tuff rivets try a 5 ton. Found that I had to drill hole to relieve pressure on them as they are double frame.

 

[emr]

WOW GREAT THREAD!!!!!!!