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6.2 Harmonic Balancer - 25 yrs/26K?

Makincold

Member
317
0
16
Location
Mansfield, GA
So I have the radiator out of my M1028 (1985, 26k) new oil lines, belts, hoses, fuel pump, thermostat, radiator cap....
So I'm replacing everything while its torn apart. Should I add the harmonic balancer to it while its easy to get to? Is it worth another +/- $75 for piece of mind on something I read can trash my engine?
Or for that matter, what else should I replace at this point?
Doghead starter relay too... but thats inside....
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
It would be a good idea since you have access to it better than you will in the future. Do the front seal when you put on the new balancer.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
4
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
:ditto: being that the harmonic is a week point in the 6.2 , just the peice of mind to me is worth the $75 and the perfect time to replace the seal that has set for a while and is going to leak anyways. I would even think about water pump your there!2cents
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I looked at a CUCV at a local city auction and when I inspected the balancer while running it was shacking really bad. So bad that I figured that just replacing it was not enough as it already cause internal damage to the crank seals. Even though it sold for $1000 which is still pretty cheap I passed on it. So I would agree that you should replace it while you are there and for $75 it is a peace of mind repair that really is not that expensive.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Pull the balancer, pry the old seal out, pound in a new one, add a swipe of oil to it and put the balancer back on. It might add 10 minutes to your balancer swap.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
4
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
When you go to get seal ask for harmonic balancer seal the counter peaple today would look at you funny if you ask for a front main seal ! :?: and yes about 10 min to change pop it out install new then put a little oil on it or balancer seal serface as to not start dry. :driver:
 

sarge1

New member
46
1
0
Location
MO.
Bear with me here. I'm really new to my CUCV and have downloaded all the manuals and read a lot through them and on here. I have noticed that aside from loose belts/wobbling pulley on the crank that it runs very well. No odd sounds or anything. My GEN 2 light pulses intermittently which I understand very well could be from the previously mentioned pulley/belt issue. It has no other symptoms of anything wrong that I can tell from this.

Is there a way I can tell easily if the wobbling crank pulley is from the balancer or just the pulley itself? Unlike the OP, I don't have the radiator or anything taken off the engine. I would just hate to go to all the trouble of swapping the pulley out, just to find out it was good but my balancer was bad. I don't have much experience working on vehicles but am trying to do most things myself on this truck. Thanks for your help.
 

Mudstone

New member
554
8
0
Location
Norman OK
they aren't expensive... i would replace both if they are in question... however my bet is that the balancer is bad... or the belts aren't aligned. i had to shim my driver side alt pretty agressively to get everything lined up.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
4
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
sarge1 If it is wobbling that bad then Definatly check to see if the pully is bent or loose or if the balancer is bad you can get the pully off from underside without taking rad out if it is not bent look at balancer the two peices are put together with a rubber joint if the rubber is coming out or is cracked baddly replace the balancer. will save the engine, a bad balancer can distroy your engine 2cents
 

dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
I had this problem in my m1009. I replaced the balancer and found my pully was bent. Replaced the pulley and all was good. Always wondered how it got so bent. I had a problem when installing the balancer, I didn't have the right size bolt in my installer kit to fit the crank. I ended up using a balancer bolt that I cut the head off and drilled and taped out to make an adapter for my tool.
 

dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
On the bolt for my installer tool, forgot to mention I looked all over town for a kit with the right size, checked online, went to fastenal and they didn't have that thread in a long enough bolt. What do people do when they change them besides make your own adapter like I did? A guy that runs the local napa told me to beat it on with a board and hammer. Not a good idea.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
On the bolt for my installer tool, forgot to mention I looked all over town for a kit with the right size, checked online, went to fastenal and they didn't have that thread in a long enough bolt. What do people do when they change them besides make your own adapter like I did? A guy that runs the local napa told me to beat it on with a board and hammer. Not a good idea.

I had no problem finding the bolt to make the tool for pulling in the balancer. I went to a local shop near me called "Arrow Bolt & Supply" and they had the right grade, size and thread in stock. I would try a small fastener supply store over Fastenal. It was discussed before here, that it is not a good idea to beat it on as mentioned.
 

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