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Problem this morning, need help.

Iamnewatthis

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Problem this morning, need help./ Update! Truck runs ,Update in original post.

The batts. were dead.
Maybe due to new alt. belts i put on that weren't tight enough.
Maybe due to the main neg. batt. cable not being tight enough.
(didn't discover that till later)

The starter went out too, but that was just a coincidence that happened at the same time. I will run thru the sequence of events as best and short as i can for the benifit of others.

I made things worse when I was messing with the alternator by banging the wrench on the hot lead and the mounting bracket and fried a bunch of stuff.

I was in a black hole for awhile after i replaced all the fusible links and starter relay, as well as charged the batts. as the truck was still dead.

Adding to my confusion was having the batts. and starter tested at oriellys and them saying they were good. For whatever reason the bendix was kicking out on the tester but not in the truck. Of course i had no way of knowing that yet as i still had no power to the starter.

So i had good batts., supposedly a good starter, and a new starter relay. Still dead.
We all figured must be a bad wire.

I then actually started following the advice of those on here who were trying to help.
everything in bold is what guys on here told me to check first, everything else is parts i threw at it, either in desperation or for gp cause they were cheap and might as well.

Here's what i did;
1. cleaned all the contacts at the gang plug. They were covered in a tar like substance, it took 2 days but was worth it.
1.5 cleaned all the contacts on the fuse box side.
1.9 replaced all the fuses.

2. changed the ignition switch just for gp
3. changed the gen. 2 relay just for gp
3. Charged batts on a smart charger

I then had power to the starter.
I could here it spin, but it would not engage flywheel.
I then removed the cover plate, fly wheel had all its teeth put in park, chock blocked it, parking brake, had
friend turn key while i was under truck, could see starter spin but bendix not kick out.
I then removed starter again, had it rebuilt by a local guy who told me he had worked on one of these trucks before, and understood the 24 volt system.

Put new starter in.
Truck did not start at first and thank god as the starter relay stayed on and ran and ran the starter.
I just pulled the relay off.
I then purchased a borg warner starter relay instead of the AC40 thinking it would be better than the china mart from auto zone, wrong, it worked for 3 starts, then also malfunctioned.
I then did the "dog head relay conversion".
Truck started.
Then took back to old guy (meant as compliment) who rebuilt starter
and had alternators tested, and batts tested again. All good.
Also noticed volt meter indicated yellow even after driving it down there.
They told me to check all grounds.
On way home bought new nuts for all the batt. cables (they were stripped from taking on and off constantly and using the wrong wrench,13mm instead of 1/2 inch) and installed right there at the hard where store.
Voltage almost instantly went to green with new nut very tight on negative batt. post.
Truck good to go.

Here's what I learned;

As the guys on here said.

Check all your batt. connections.
Check your batts. are charged.
If its metal clean it.
Clean all the connections on the gang plug. (i had nothing happening till i did that, even after replacing components in the starting system)
Check/ replace fuses.
Look at the diagram and start isolating the problem. It can get pretty overwhelming just looking at all the wires in the truck.
Use the trouble shooting guides in the TM's, even if doesn't fix your problem it may and will help you learn how things work.
Use a 24 volt test light. And start testing for power in order of how things work. I was throwing parts at it at first.
Any connection you come across, clean it. Even if it's working now, as others told me, it's 25 years old.
Any rubber boots or covers you come across, replace them.
Disconnect the batts. before touching any thing electrical. That one i knew but was being lazy.

I want to thank everyone who helped me with this.
It was pretty stress full not knowing much about this truck or electrical stuff, and worrying that 5k i had into it went up in smoke, as well as sharing one working truck with my 2 kids, all of whom are trying to get to work or go to school. I could not have fixed this without your help.
Thank you very much.
As far as the smart asses on here who made jokes at my misfortune, KISS MY ASS.

I would just like to add that doing the recomended "must do's" in the FAQ
section is the way to go.
While i did replace the starter relay (AC40), and the GPR.
I did not clean any of the contacts, nor did i check or replace any fuses.
I would say if I bought another one of these, I would go thru and clean all the contacts at the gang plug,
replace fuses right off the bat, test the starter, alternators , and batts. before
I even drove it. Electricly speaking.
Simply checking the fluids, and changing the oil/filter aren't gonna get it.

Thanks again, enjoying my new truck again.
 
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Hasdrubal

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I'm assuming you still have the 24V system. Unless you have a slave cable and another 24V equipped truck, you wont be able to jump it with another vehicle because they're only 12V. Disconnect your batteries and charge each one seperately. As for the "popping sound and smelling something burning", that sounds like you might have to rebuild one of your alternators. When you get it started, you'll notice if the voltmeter is reading low, or have the alt's tested.
 

Iamnewatthis

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I'm assuming you still have the 24V system. Unless you have a slave cable and another 24V equipped truck, you wont be able to jump it with another vehicle because they're only 12V. Disconnect your batteries and charge each one seperately. As for the "popping sound and smelling something burning", that sounds like you might have to rebuild one of your alternators. When you get it started, you'll notice if the voltmeter is reading low, or have the alt's tested.
Thanks allot for your help.

My charger is a "smart charger" it has a 2, 10, 25 amp setting.
It was on the 2.5 on its own.
Any reason I shouldn't use the 10 amp setting on the charger?

thanks.
 

rickf

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Leave it on automatic and it will go up as it senses the battery can handle it.
The pop may also have been the glow plug controller under the dash. As voltage goes down amperage goes up and you may have popped a resister.

Rick
 

jacksmad1

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I would suggest taking the alternator off and taking it somewhere to get it tested. Sounds like something bad wrong with the one that wanted to turn by itself. The only other time I have seen that was with a generator on a truck. The alternator is acting like a DC motor and is probably what drained the batteries. Yes, I know an alternator normally produces AC and the diodes convert it to DC. Like I said, I believe you have a serious problem in the alternator. Charging the batteries with them connected could cause the bad alternator to overheat and possibly catch on fire. An alternator acting like a motor is not "normal". Better to be safe than sorry. Just my 2cents
 

jimmy-90

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One time I was doing a motor swap on an older toyota truck and spilled coolant down the alternator. Long story short it burned out the diod and caused the alternator to try to turn by it's self even after I turned the truck off. And yep I could smell the thing cooking while the truck was sitting in the driveway and the keys were in my pocket lol. Im pretty sure your diod is bad.
 

K9Vic

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If you need your alternator repaired or check, please PM me and I will give you my contact for a guy in Hillsboro that rebuilds them for a fair price; Rick's Alternator & Starter Service
. I have bought batteries from him as well as had my alternators rebuilt there. He is the only guy I would recommend as he rebuild them for the owner Vintage Military Trucks Home Page for all his trucks.

I would provide a jump start for you, but my M1009 is currently on jack stands repairing the front bearings and hubs. If I get it done later today I can help as I have the 24v slave cable and a 12v jumping system for converted CUCVs.
 

Iamnewatthis

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If you need your alternator repaired or check, please PM me and I will give you my contact for a guy in Hillsboro that rebuilds them for a fair price; Rick's Alternator & Starter Service
. I have bought batteries from him as well as had my alternators rebuilt there. He is the only guy I would recommend as he rebuild them for the owner Vintage Military Trucks Home Page for all his trucks.

I would provide a jump start for you, but my M1009 is currently on jack stands repairing the front bearings and hubs. If I get it done later today I can help as I have the 24v slave cable and a 12v jumping system for converted CUCVs.
Well guys i just went from bad to worse all on my own.
I charged the batteries one at a time.
Wait lights and all light up and go out, but still dead.
I figured it was alternators so I took out the driver side one,
then went to do the passenger side one,,,
I was loosening the the double red wire,
my wrench hit the mounting bracket while on the nut, sparks, smoke, popping,
had to grab the wrench with a pair of pliers to get it off. It was hot, and scorched.
The smoke I saw was coming from under/behind the fuel filter, then it moved on down to the wires mounted to something above the GPR, and then the GPR.
I must have changed out 5 or 6 alternators in my life and this is the first time I forgot to disconnect the batts. I am sick to my stomach. God only knows what I have fried.
I disconnected the batts., finished removing the passenger side alt., put them down, and went and had dinner with the family. This morning I took the kid to her softball tourny and just now got home.
I figure I better replace both alts. but cannot find on here the part # for the passenger side one. I have a number for the driver side from oreillys-01-0136.
I already replaced the GPR when i got the truck, but looks like i better do that again.
As well as the starter relay just to be safe.
I am clueless as to what happened to whatever was smoking under the fuel filter.
Any insights would be great. As well as a part # for the passenger side alt.
thanks.
 

K9Vic

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Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I know myself and others here are wondering a few things.

Did the truck turn over and not start?
If it did why did you think it was the alternators?
The alternators have nothing to do with the starting of the truck, likely your starter or relay was bad. The Doghead relay conversion would have fixed that issue. If you needed a starter eBay or NAPA if you want to pay more. The Alternator/s may have been bad, but that would not have prevented it from starting. I have started these trucks with no alternators, they do not need to be there it is a diesel and can run with out batteries.

You can not buy the alternators at any local parts store, the one you listed is not completely correct but will work only on the 12v driver side. You can not use it on the passenger side as this must have the isolated ground post. If your alternator burned up, you will probably have to replace it completely. They are expensive from what I have seen on eBay at $199, but maybe cheaper if some other SS memebers knows where to get one. You can call Rick's Alternators, he may have a used one or two of can rebuid it.

I got my truck done about 11am, but the site was down so I guess you had no way to contact me for help. But I probably would have missed any PM as I was out helping with some downed trees after the strom using my winch and chain saw.
 

Iamnewatthis

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Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I know myself and others here are wondering a few things.

Did the truck turn over and not start?
If it did why did you think it was the alternators?
The alternators have nothing to do with the starting of the truck, likely your starter or relay was bad. The Doghead relay conversion would have fixed that issue. If you needed a starter eBay or NAPA if you want to pay more. The Alternator/s may have been bad, but that would not have prevented it from starting. I have started these trucks with no alternators, they do not need to be there it is a diesel and can run with out batteries.

You can not buy the alternators at any local parts store, the one you listed is not completely correct but will work only on the 12v driver side. You can not use it on the passenger side as this must have the isolated ground post. If your alternator burned up, you will probably have to replace it completely. They are expensive from what I have seen on eBay at $199, but maybe cheaper if some other SS memebers knows where to get one. You can call Rick's Alternators, he may have a used one or two of can rebuid it.

I got my truck done about 11am, but the site was down so I guess you had no way to contact me for help. But I probably would have missed any PM as I was out helping with some downed trees after the strom using my winch and chain saw.
It started to turn over but didn't, the above posts were telling me my alternators.
They said look at the volt meter, i did and with the batts fully charged it read zero.
So i thought i would take them in for a bench test.
I already put in a new starter relay. And GPR using the ones reccomended on here.
The starter looks new.
What do you think?

eta; ricks alternators in FT.Worth?
What is a dog head relay?
 
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K9Vic

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A battery or your batteries could be bad and not getting the full 24v to turn the starter. The Doghead starter mod is just using modern relay for the starter, you can search for it here in CUCV forum.

No not Fort Worth, Rick's Alternator & Starter Service in Hillsboro (I do not want to post his number as I only have his cell, Google should bring up the business number). Well worth the drive to get your batteries, alternators & starters rebuild as he know how to work on these CUCV parts. many times he can rebuild them in a few hours, so you just go to the outlet mall to kill time.
 

Iamnewatthis

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Thanks, I have another question, in your first post back to me you said it doesn't need batts. to run or the alternators.
How will the starter turn without power from the batts.?
Or am I misunderstanding?
I was thinking of having the alts. bench tested locally in case its not them.
Replace the starter relay and the GPR since smoke was coming out of that.
If the alts are good and it starts after replacing the relays. Good to go.
If not then run the stuff down to ricks. What do you think?
 

Warthog

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The smoke was coming out of the fusable link that feeds the 12v to the entire truck. They are designed to burn before it fries the other components.

This was just discussed this weekend.

Search for some of my resent posts concerning batteries, alternators and fusable links.

Warthog
 

Warthog

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Thanks, I have another question, in your first post back to me you said it doesn't need batts. to run or the alternators.
How will the starter turn without power from the batts.?
Or am I misunderstanding?
I was thinking of having the alts. bench tested locally in case its not them.
Replace the starter relay and the GPR since smoke was coming out of that.
If the alts are good and it starts after replacing the relays. Good to go.
If not then run the stuff down to ricks. What do you think?

Yes you do need batteries to start the engine and 12v from the front battery to keep the 12v Injector Pump Fuel Relay energized.

If the batteries are charged, you can get by without alternators for awhile.
 

Warthog

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You really need to read the CUCV FAQ Article (CUCV Wiki) at the very top of the CUCV Forum.

Also read the FAQ Thread for CUCV's sticky that just below the Wiki.

Those two thread will answer many of the questions you will have about the CUCV.
 

K9Vic

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Thanks, I have another question, in your first post back to me you said it doesn't need batts. to run or the alternators.
How will the starter turn without power from the batts.?
Or am I misunderstanding?
I was thinking of having the alts. bench tested locally in case its not them.
Replace the starter relay and the GPR since smoke was coming out of that.
If the alts are good and it starts after replacing the relays. Good to go.
If not then run the stuff down to ricks. What do you think?
I simply meant a diesel engine does not need alternators or batteries to run like a gas engine. You still need power to start it, but once it is running it will stay running with no voltage. I know of a guy that drove a M1009 with no alternators several hundred miles. He just had good battery so he could start it and power the signal lights.

If your alternators are in deed bad, take them to Ricks; do not trust a shop that has rebuilt a isolated ground alternator. He can even test them for you, but that is a long drive if they are OK. I had my 2008 Tahoe down there because my voltage was low sometimes, but he said my alternator was fine and how the computer runs the system.
 

Iamnewatthis

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I simply meant a diesel engine does not need alternators or batteries to run like a gas engine. You still need power to start it, but once it is running it will stay running with no voltage. I know of a guy that drove a M1009 with no alternators several hundred miles. He just had good battery so he could start it and power the signal lights.

If your alternators are in deed bad, take them to Ricks; do not trust a shop that has rebuilt a isolated ground alternator. He can even test them for you, but that is a long drive if they are OK. I had my 2008 Tahoe down there because my voltage was low sometimes, but he said my alternator was fine and how the computer runs the system.
I called rick in hillsboro, he gave me some good insights and help as did you guys here.
Looks like i'll be renting a tow dolly and taking it down there later this week.

Does anyone on here have a pic of one of these "fuse-able links". I'm looking all over my truck and all i see are a bunch of wires connected to posts.

I've got the batts. charged, the alts. back in. and would almost be back to finding my original problem if i can find what i fried when the wrench hit bracket while connected to the alt.
thanks.
problem
 

Warthog

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Fusible links include mechanical and electrical devices.
A mechanical fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate. Mechanical fusible links are utilized as the triggering device in fire sprinkler systems and mechanical automatic door release mechanisms that close fire doors in warehouses, etc. Some high-security safes also utilize fusible link-based relockers as a defense against torches and heat-producing tools. Mechanical fusible links come in a variety of designs and different temperature ratings.
An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four [American wire gauge] sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical Fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.[1]

I will take some pics and post later today.
 
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Iamnewatthis

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Well I have replaced all the fusible links (i think) that i fried when i banged the mounting bracket with the wrench while attached to the alternator.
I replaced the glow plug relay too.
Dead truck.
The dash lights/wait light comes on and goes out, but nothing happens when i turn key,
and the volt meter is reading dead though the batts. have been fully charged.
I checked the connections on all the posts behind the batts. too, all tight.
The starter relay is new too. (the one under the dash).
Any insights would be great, thinking of towing it to hillsboro monday.
 

Stratoghost

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Warthog and others helped me out last week when I was all but giving up fixing my truck. The positive post on my passenger alt came in contact with the mounting bracket and toasted some fusible links. The one I missed was one on a big red wire coming from the battery that went under a wiring post above the glow plug relay. I could not see it completely as it was flush with the bottom of it. When I examined it, it crumbled in my hand. It otherwise looked fine, which is probably why I missed it.

Before I got my answer I replaced my glow plug relay, ignition switch, starter relay and many fusible links.
 
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