Self Locking Door Handles for the Deuce

[92RT-TT]

has anyone thought about drilling a hole and installing a deadbolt? that way the handle is completly independent form the deadbolt... idk just throwing out an idea

 

[clinto]

has anyone thought about drilling a hole and installing a deadbolt? that way the handle is completly independent form the deadbolt... idk just throwing out an idea

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/7043-lock-up-security-deadbolt.html

 

[AceHigh]

I use the L handle locks on all the trucks. Big advantage is they are all keyed alike. Easy to install and available from several dealers on the net.

These came from Kaffenbarger Welding, New Carlisle, OH 45344

 

[maynard83]

I use the L handle locks on all the trucks. Big advantage is they are all keyed alike. Easy to install and available from several dealers on the net.

These came from Kaffenbarger Welding, New Carlisle, OH 45344

These look great! Any modifications you had to do before installation?
Thanks.

 

[AceHigh]

Thanks. Sand, paint, wallow out the screw holes a smidgen toward the center, cut the shaft about 1/4 inch and drill out the keeper in the door as described above.

 

[Kohburn]

those look a little different than the ones on their website - but they are only 8$

 

[AceHigh]

About right. Here is the link to what I bought

Truck Equipment, Truck Bodies, Truck Accessories & Equipment Parts - Kaffenbarger Truck Equipment Ohio Cincinnati, Dayton, Columbus, New Carlisle, Sunnyvale Texas

 

[asgtoolman]

Did they mount in the original mounting holes or did you also have to redrill for them?

Had to redrill door for them also; spacing was about 3/8" off total so new holes were very close to old ones--they still hit in reinforced area and had to be tapped to accept screws.
I also lightly sandblasted the handles in my trusty Harbor Freight cabinet, used my table model belt sander to ease all the square edges on the handles [they were kinda "modern" looking], and also filled a void in the back of the handle casting with JB Weld to beef them up. A little bit of a pain and time consuming, but using up time is what this hobby is all about to me-- keeps me out of trouble--AND out of money!
I promise to post brand name tomorrow

 

[Brentzilla]

I got the handles yesterday and took my old ones off. It appears that the deuce shaft has two separate square shapes with the small section being off center. I tried sliding my in but it wouldn't turn the latch. I know Im missing something minor here for it to operate the door properly. Tips?

 

[AceHigh]

Brent, you have to drill the "keeper" inside the door out just a smidgen. All you need to do is insert a drill big enough to widen the hole a little so the new shaft can get past it to the latch. Kind of hard to explain.

 

[asgtoolman]

I did not have any problems with either of the two sets I tried on mine; the last set has been on for 2 months now and used quite often with no problems. I know the original shafts looked more "complicated" than the replacements; but everything fit fine.

 

[EXITNOONE]

DOOR LOCKS ??

i just finished my version today...

i wanted a lever deadbolt type of locking mechanism that didn't interfere with
or alter the stock door handle function and looks.
and i wanted my door locks to be completely inconspicuous.
when a wannabee thief or joyrider wants to get into your deuce, he's going to go straight for
the cheap eye sore door locks which stick out like pink boots with bdu's...

then the door lock idea came to me.

parts needed:

2 each- 2" long x 5/16 1/4" hex socket screws
2 each- 3" long 3/8" hardened bolts
4 each- 5/16 nuts
1 each- 1/4" allan wrench key

total cost $8

the big part of this version is the fabrication, but that was half the fun for me.
designing something completely unique and definitely secure.


i'll try to keep the explanation concise.
drill a hole through the cab pillar 10" up from the bottom of the door.
the hole will go through the interior cab reinforcement plate.
the hole in the cab pillar should be 1/4".
the hole in the reinforcement plate should be enlarged to 5/16".
cut a slot into the door jam and the door itself. of course they need to line up.
insert the fabricated hex screw/dead bolt into the 5/16 hole and door jam slot.
insert your hex key through the cab body to align the position of the hex screw.
thread 2 5/16" nuts onto the hex screw from inside the cab.
adjust the hex screw and nuts so it fits in the slot.
weld the nuts in place to the interior cab reinforcement plate.
you now have a functional door lock.
close your door.
turn the allan key 1/2 turn clock or counter clockwise to open or lock your door.

on my hex screws, i altered the head, so that a regular allan wrench, screw driver, or star key will not fit. the cab pillar hole is so small that needle nose pliers can not grab the hex screw to turn it.
the hex screw is also receded so far into the door jam pillar that the 1/4" hole in the body looks just like a plain hole and nothing more.

tomorrow i'll be cutting my custom allan wrench hex key
and welding a ring on it so it can be placed on my keychain like a normal key.

i forgot to get a photo of the nuts welded to the interior cab reinforcement plate, but you can see the plate rivets from within the door jam slot, which should give you some orientation about the the mounting. you can also see the allan wrench going into the cab door pillar and into the hex screw. i welded a bead around the lock slots to strengthen the body steel. i'll be adding some thin cover plates to hide the mess. the lock slots are 1/2" wide x 3" tall.

i also included a teaser pic of the custom telescopic mirrors i just finished...
i'll have more on that in my build thread soon...

 

[treeguy]

This is my latest invention for the deuce. It is a locking pin for the drivers door that is operated by a hidden rod that is in rear corner of the cab. The outside end will protrude thru the floor and will be behind the lower body skirt. Just push up to lock which will slide the pin into a reinforcing tube welded into the door and pull down to slide the pin out of the door. The head mechanism will be accessable from inside the cab so you will not get locked in and can lock it if you wanted while inside. I was thinking of adding a spring or detent some where to get the vertical rod to rest in either position (up or down) but that would just complicate the rig. From what I can figure, the position of the pin engaged in the door will keep the vertical rod from dropping down. Besides this concept is for when the vehicle is parked so there will, under normal atmospheric conditions, not be enough vibrations or movement to drop the vertical rod down releasing the door pin. And while unlocked in the rod down position any and all driving motions (except inverted) will keep the door unlocked. Also the depth into the door would have to be carefully considered as to not interfere with anything, as well as the height. The whole set up would be virtually invisible.

Just my idea ----- sharing.

I think the door handles with locks look real nice, but I'd be afraid of some punk just tearing off the handle trying to turn it. I guess in that case the pass. door would be vulnerable, maybe I'd have to make one for each side. After I finish all the other projects, or maybe next.

 

[goldwing2000]

I promise to post brand name tomorrow

So does "tomorrow" mean something different down in SC?

 

[ApopkaFL]

I plan to shave my doors, get my self some autoloc auto door popers

 

[treeguy]

Wa da ya mean shave you doors, what will that do for you?