Keyed Ignition

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Okay, I see the error of my ways! It's worth listening to that buzzer if it has the potential to stop a 13,000lb vehicle from slamming into a bus full of kids.

Steelandcanvas, I do have the operators manual - this site graciously provided me with all the documentation I could ever need.

MuddinLove, I tried hooking up the wires to ignition and battery and it seemed to operate the same way it does now - I will try it again later today.

 

[MuddinLove]

Sorry for your misunderstanding but i said batt and crank, not batt and ign.

MuddinLove, I tried hooking up the wires to ignition and battery and it seemed to operate the same way it does now - I will try it again later today.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Maybe I'm still misunderstanding you, but I don't have a crank hookup. The four hookups I have are:

ACC
BAT
IGN
and one in the middle (unmarked) which I assume is ground.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I wouldn't think the middle connection is a ground. Do you have a VOM or a continuity tester/light?

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Yes, but I'm not a very savvy electrician - turn the key all the way to the right and see which two posts talk to each other?

 

[steelandcanvas]

Yes, but I'm not a very savvy electrician - turn the key all the way to the right and see which two posts talk to each other?

Yessir! All the way against the spring like you want it to start.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Roger that; I'll go try it. I appreciate the help!

 

[steelandcanvas]

Roger that; I'll go try it. I appreciate the help!

Let me know how that works for you.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Well, I just tested the connectivity of the posts while the key was in the "on" position (NOT all the way against the spring) and every combination of the following three posts are talking to each other:

IGN
BAT
Unmarked center post (ground?)

No change when I turn the key all the way against the spring. I even tried accessory. Basically, there is no combination that ONLY has a connection when the key is against the spring in the "start" position. =(

 

[asgtoolman]

Well, I just tested the connectivity of the posts while the key was in the "on" position (NOT all the way against the spring) and every combination of the following three posts are talking to each other:

IGN
BAT
Unmarked center post (ground?)

No change when I turn the key all the way against the spring. I even tried accessory. Basically, there is no combination that ONLY has a connection when the key is against the spring in the "start" position. =(

In my humble opinion; YOU HAVE A BAD SWITCH!!!

 

[steelandcanvas]

I tend to agree with Asa, you might have a bad switch. Can you take it back and try another? If so, have the Guys at the counter "ring it out" (switch connections) for you.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Ah ha! So I wasn't going crazy. Awesome, I'll take it back to Autozone tomorrow. It's just a generic switch. I thought maybe there was some electrical magic going on when all four wires were hooked up, and that I wouldn't be able to have a normally operating ignition with just two wires. You would think that 8 bucks would net some higher-quality parts =)

 

[steelandcanvas]

Good luck! We'll continue this saga when you get the new switch. You'd think they'd have better parts in Texas.

 

[asgtoolman]

Good luck! We'll continue this saga when you get the new switch. You'd think they'd have better parts in Texas.

They always say things are BIGGER in Texas--I never heard them say they were BETTER!

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Well, I exchanged the ignition for a new one today. Tested it with the volt meter; the circuit only completes between ignition and the unmarked center post (ground) when the key is against the spring in the crank position. I hooked up my two wires to those posts, flip the accessory on, and when I turn the key to the on position, I hear the starter begin to crank. Mission failure. The wiring is correct this time, and the other switch was bad, but now it seems to be a design issue. Basically, between each key position there is a split second where the switch completes the circuit. If I turn on the accessory switch while the key is already in the on position, the starter will not engage, further confirming my thoughts that there is a small window between each key position where the circuit between ignition and ground is completed.

=(

I'm not giving up here - if I can find a keyed ignition switch for a 2-wire setup, I'll order it online. Local autozone doesn't have it. If you happen to know of a good site to check, I'd appreciate it. Again, thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I don't know, you just might have to settle for a keyed off/on switch. A friend of mine has one in his Deuce, and it works fine. It does what it's supposed to do, and that is to keep honest people honest.

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Well, there's really no problem with leaving the way it is - I can start the truck by turning the key to the on position, then when it starts, return the key to the off position. There's the potential to leave the key in the on position and burn up the starter I suppose, but... I tend to have faith in my ability to hear the horrible grinding noise.

 

[steelandcanvas]

The way he wired his up, he still uses his momentary starter button, the button just doesn't have any power until the keyswitch is in the on position, or in series as us Sparkies call it.

 

[asgtoolman]

I KNOW I bought an ignition switch from Autozone last year for my M274 mule that does what you and I want to do for the deuce; I am going to add a keyed switch to my deuce and I WILL FIND ONE THAT WORKS!! [I hope] I was in no big hurry to do it but now the CHALLENGE is there!!
Do you have a model/part # for the switch you bought?

 

[TheDoubleDeuce]

I don't have a NSN for it; I could probably call up Autozone and have them look at the ignition but that may be a local part number. It's just a cheap generic chinese four-wire ignition. I'm going to look online for a two-wire ignition; I'll let you know if I find one.