• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Installed new battery, now it won't start

OL AG '89

Member
743
9
18
Location
Kingwood, Texas
have to ask
did you install it correctly?
check the TM for proper cable placement
Do you have 24 volt or 12 volt system?
Check for proper voltage an see if battery is showing 12 + volts
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
You have to replace them in pairs. Just like changing flashlight batteries. The new battery will not last. But if it clicks that normally means not enough amps to engage the starter. But crawl under the truck and hit the starter with a hammer or something. If it starts after that you need a new starter it is sticking.
 

kcbbqguru

New member
89
0
0
Location
kansas city
Yes, I did install it correctly. I replaced the "bad" battery, I am being cheap, I will replace the second battery too and see what happens let you know Thanks
 

OL AG '89

Member
743
9
18
Location
Kingwood, Texas
o.k. I'll change my first answer....
Why did you decide to change just one battery?
3dubs is partialy correct. If one battery is bad, the other has been doing the bulk of the work.
What did the truck do prior to replacing battery, hard start no start?
If you test the other battery, does it test good or weak?
 

OL AG '89

Member
743
9
18
Location
Kingwood, Texas
o.k. here's another idea.
I had a starting issue and discovered the batery post on one of the batteries was "chewed" up. I found this out while working on it. I had my son crank the motor after I had finished tightening the posts. I had a plume of fire go up from the post!!! I almost had to clean my drawers. I took the clamps off and discovered the problem... I'll post picturesof post if I can find the camera.....
or do like you said and just replace the other battery, better off down the road.
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
:funny:I had a bit of smoke once and had to change my drawers too! To be complete. You can change one battery. But only if the one had a problem and the other was fine. When charging the batteries you have to be careful to charge them to the same level too. I buy rebuilt batteries that are cheap. They most likely were from different sources. But they have both been charged to the same level and tested. If you were around here I could hook you up with cheap batteries. Good luck
 

kentuckycucv

Member
361
9
12
Location
Louisville Ky
Get a marker and mark your battery terminals before removing your batteries...Ie + rear - rear......+F -F This will prevent an unfortunate accidental sparkey, smokey... fusible link mess.
 

davidkroberts

Active member
1,453
23
38
Location
west tennessee
did you check the connections? the CUCV'c have tons of wiring and just the moving of everything around changing the battery could have loosened a connection to the point its loosing contact somewhere.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Get a marker and mark your battery terminals before removing your batteries...Ie + rear - rear......+F -F This will prevent an unfortunate accidental sparkey, smokey... fusible link mess.
Very true and good advise, I do that still just top be safe.

Why you may ask?

Well, I have a M1010 that is 12v converted, but not by me and can not go back to 24v because it was a butchered change over. Then a M1009 that is still 24v, so I have to be real careful when I reconnect batteries that I remember what CUCV I am working on.
 

erniemigi

New member
168
2
0
Location
Amelia, ohio
if both batterys check out good and connected properly, check for a loose ground, mine is mounted just below the front battery close to the engine, if it still connected it might also be so rusted or got to much corrosion on it that it is not making a good ground, take it loose and sand down all the connection points including where it bolts to, also back by the starter relay check your fusible links and along your batt cables for any links there that might have blown
 

bkwudzhom

Member
322
1
18
Location
ga
I was chasing down a hard to start problem and it it seemed all the connections were good. However upon closer inspection of the terminals I found that one of them was cracked from the bottom side almost to the top! It looked fine from the topside. I know it takes time but even the simple things can stop us from having fun in these things!!

Something we used to do in the Corps and I still do-make a copy of the schematic-get it laminated-when chasing the wires you can trace them with a wax pencil and write on the diagram the voltage/ohms/continuity and at which point you get it. This allows you to come back later if you dont finish and pick right up where you left off. Best part is when you find it you can wipe the diagram clean untill you need it again.
Good luck! I freakin' hate electrical problems.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
What type of starter is it? The old sytle Direct Drive (fat) or the new style Gear Reduction (skinny).

You can have it rebuilt or buy a new Gear Reduction starter. I have not bought one but many members have bought them from fleebay for ~$100. It is hard to find a rebuilt Direct Drive 24v.

One word of advise. When you install the new starter use new mounting bolts and make sure the support bracket is installed. This has been discussed many time with pictures and part numbers listed.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I just went through a 27MT (direct drive) rebuild last month. $125. Others have posted that buying a new 28MT (gear reduction) on ebay, the solenoid, the new bolts and the new rear mount and getting everything shipped to their house comes to about $175 or so total. Look around for a good rebuild place in your area before you start throwing money at it.
 

kcbbqguru

New member
89
0
0
Location
kansas city
I just went through a 27MT (direct drive) rebuild last month. $125. Others have posted that buying a new 28MT (gear reduction) on ebay, the solenoid, the new bolts and the new rear mount and getting everything shipped to their house comes to about $175 or so total. Look around for a good rebuild place in your area before you start throwing money at it.
the rebuild shop call and said the old start is COOKED, the wires inside were melted and he said to rebuild it would cost me about $150 bucks, but he had brand new gear reduction in stock for $195 so I bought it now back to work!! pics to come soon!!
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Congrats. Good Job!!! :beer:\

Great looking truck.

So the problem was a cooked starter. Did you put the support bracket in place? Not as big an issue with the gear reduction but is very cheap insurance to keep from breaking the nose cone or the block.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks