cfish
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Is the pasenger side alt the one that is standard alt and can be found at autozone? If so what is the part number for it?
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m1009 altenator part number
- Thread starter cfish
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NO, NO, NO!
The passenger alternator has to be an isolated ground alternator.
It is best to just rebuild it yourself or have someone rebuild it for you. I pay about $50 for the parts or my rebuilder charges ~$85.
NAPA has a rebuilt "isolated ground" alternator. Runs about $220. The part number is listed in the CUCV Wiki. There have been some issues with it coming from the rebuilder NOT isolated, so check it before you leave the store.
OD Iron also sells them, along with ePay.
GM part number - 1105500
NAPA Rebuild - WIL 90014277
The passenger alternator has to be an isolated ground alternator.
It is best to just rebuild it yourself or have someone rebuild it for you. I pay about $50 for the parts or my rebuilder charges ~$85.
NAPA has a rebuilt "isolated ground" alternator. Runs about $220. The part number is listed in the CUCV Wiki. There have been some issues with it coming from the rebuilder NOT isolated, so check it before you leave the store.
OD Iron also sells them, along with ePay.
GM part number - 1105500
NAPA Rebuild - WIL 90014277
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cfish
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Just had my amp gauge peg in the red (over voltage and the back battery was bubbling. I disconnected the terminals to both alts started up the cucv and drove the 1/2 mile home. Pulled into the driveway and found the passenger side alt smoking.
cfish
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Thanks, I will take it to an alt shop and let them rebuild it. Me and electronics don't mix well. Anything important to tell them when I drop it off?
It is just a 12v 27SI type 100 alternator. It has some additional washers inside the case that "isolates" the internal electricals from the case.
They must return the fiberwashers to the correct place so the case is not used as the ground.
When you pick it up have them show you that the case is not grounded to the "Ground" lug on the back of the case.
This has been covered many, many times. If you still have questions, spend some time reading some of the posts.
They must return the fiberwashers to the correct place so the case is not used as the ground.
When you pick it up have them show you that the case is not grounded to the "Ground" lug on the back of the case.
This has been covered many, many times. If you still have questions, spend some time reading some of the posts.
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cfish
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Thanks
cfish
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Warthog, another newbie question. Do both alt's look identical externaly? Do they have the same electrical connections? Both these alts look exactly alike and the driver side has the brown wire with a small cap on it that snaps on. If I understand it that connector is for the amp/volt gauge. Both alts appear to be exactly alike externally.
The stock alternator where both the same. The military ordered them that way so they only had to stock one alternator and it would work on either side.
The stock driver side alternator is an isolated ground but it is not required.
Some people have used a non-isolated ground alternator for the drivers side. If you do this, PLEASE label it so someone doesn't install it on the passenger side assuming it it the correct one. If they do then fireworks will follow.
That brown wire with the cap is for the STE/ICE diagnostic system. It send the signal for the tach on the diagnostic system. The small orange wire on the passenger side is also for the STE/ICE system. It show the tester the total voltage of the truck. Neither wire is required is you will never use the tester.
The stock driver side alternator is an isolated ground but it is not required.
Some people have used a non-isolated ground alternator for the drivers side. If you do this, PLEASE label it so someone doesn't install it on the passenger side assuming it it the correct one. If they do then fireworks will follow.
That brown wire with the cap is for the STE/ICE diagnostic system. It send the signal for the tach on the diagnostic system. The small orange wire on the passenger side is also for the STE/ICE system. It show the tester the total voltage of the truck. Neither wire is required is you will never use the tester.
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Barrman
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The original military alternators were identical left and right. That way, they only had to stock one part. You can use the Autozone version on the drivers side only!
You really only need the drivers side alternator to drive the truck. The rear battery and passenger side alternator only get used for starting. You can pull your passenger side alternator off, tape up the wires, remove the belt and drive the truck all you want. The volt meter inside will stay just below the green in the yellow. If it gets down to the middle of the yellow arc, charge up the rear battery before you try to start it again. Then drive for another 15-20 starts before you have to charge it again.
Rebuilding the alternators is more a mechanical process than an electrical one. Try it, if nothing else, you will have the parts to take to a rebuilder at a cheaper price than he would have charged you for them.
The pin on the back with the covered hood connector is for the STE/ICE lead that helps that diagnostic box tell engine rpm. Don't worry about it for now.
You really only need the drivers side alternator to drive the truck. The rear battery and passenger side alternator only get used for starting. You can pull your passenger side alternator off, tape up the wires, remove the belt and drive the truck all you want. The volt meter inside will stay just below the green in the yellow. If it gets down to the middle of the yellow arc, charge up the rear battery before you try to start it again. Then drive for another 15-20 starts before you have to charge it again.
Rebuilding the alternators is more a mechanical process than an electrical one. Try it, if nothing else, you will have the parts to take to a rebuilder at a cheaper price than he would have charged you for them.
The pin on the back with the covered hood connector is for the STE/ICE lead that helps that diagnostic box tell engine rpm. Don't worry about it for now.
Barrman
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Hmm, Joe beat me to it. With the same basic words too.
You did well Grasshopper.................
cfish
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Thanks guys. Looks like I have a lot of reading ahead of me. I have down loaded the TM and plan to take a few days to actually read the thing.
Read Barrmans Alternator thread. It also has a GM manual that helps some with the rebuild and testing
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html
Only use this manual a supplimental guide. it DOES NOT cover the isolated ground!!!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54292-cucv-alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-fix.html
Only use this manual a supplimental guide. it DOES NOT cover the isolated ground!!!
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cfish
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SPent half the night reading and got schooled really well. New Alt came via UPS today and finished putting it on about an hour ago. Also put on my new Steering Stabilizer as well. She purred to life and both batteries are in good shape. Was worried about the back battery as it bubbled up a little when the alt when ballistic. I checked it out with volt meter and everything is ok. I will have autozone put a load on it to make sure it is not damaged. the amp/volt gauge was a concern as well. When the alt went super nova the volt gauge started to smoke inside the face of the gauge. Seems to be working ok. Neeedle on start up was on the line between green and yellow, gave it a litte gas and it moved to center of green and cruising around on the road she was a needle width below the red at full speed and at the stop light idled in middle or slightly below middle green.