Minor Deuce modification I am considering and seeking advice.

[Galdron]

I have searched the forums and although I have found some relevant information on the air pig, I am searching for advice.

I want to move the bleeder valves from the existing location, (just behind the spare tire for both left and right and position them on the outside frame close to the spare tire. This modification is just to keep me from having dirty knees when bleeding the air after a trip. Lazy? Maybe.. Any thoughts would be welcomed.

Second is because I have an M35A2C the front mud flaps have a small rubber stop on the steel mud flaps. There are 4 holes on the mud flap that appear to be about 3/8" in size. I would like to install an air pig on the side of the truck just in front of the mud flap. This would be almost directly above the gas tank. I suspect I can get a 7 gallon air pig installed above the gas tank with little to no problems.
Any thoughts would be welcomed. Both modifications would be done around the same time and a full audit of all air connections would be included in this mod.

Thanks for all the advice I have already received and the brotherhood of the steelsoldiers on this site.

Thanks,
Paul

 

[Kohburn]

i would just get the cable actuated bleeders that go for ~$10

more air capacity is always good, but you may want to install a regulator infront of it so that it doesn't start airing up untill the system has reached 60psi

 

[197thhhc]

You can buy the auto bleeders that use a pull string you can mount at the step. Why would you need an air pig. You have an airline access uner the glove box. Put a quick disconnect on it and carry an airline in the tool box.

 

[drgreg]

My M813A1 has the drain piped out under the running board, it is easy access. I used the Cable Drains on my M35's. It's an easy mod. that you could change later, if you really want to.
Here are the drains I used: Ryder

 

[Floridianson]

You have a Deuce and don't want to get dirty. Sell the truck.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I use an air pig so that I can get a largere volume of CFM released at once to run my 1" impact. The problem I would have with mounting the pig in a permanent location would be the expense of 35' of half inch air hose. With a portable pig you can move it around the truck with the 3/8 hose feeding it and only need a short section of 1/2 hose. I have 10' on my air pig!

 

[bones1]

What is an air pig?.

 

[juddspaintballs]

http://tinyurl.com/29997j8

 

[bones1]

Ahhhh. I forgot about LMGTFY ,I used to do it to other people as well. Thanks for reminding me to use it.

 

[juddspaintballs]

It is fun to use. Now if someone would write the code to do a "Let me search that for you" for this forum, that would be most excellent.

 

[rlwm211]

I would not connect the air pig to the system, but instead get a glad hand for the rear and if you want the extra air storage, connect that to the air pig and then to the air tool of choice. The air line running to the rear is large enough to feed a big impact, but the limitation of the system is the CFM of the compressor which is somewhere arount 7 cfm. I have a torque multiplier and that generally loosens lugs pretty easily. I use my half inch to run things in and out and to take off smaller bolts and things.
I heartily recommend the acquisition of a torque multiplier. That and a jack stand to set it on when you are pulling the square lugs on the inners.

RL

 

[Galdron]

Thanks guys I have ordered the Ryder bleeder kit and yes that is a better solution than running a pipe to the side. I am still building a mount to put the air pig on the side of the fender above the fuel tank. I will be removable by a simple wing nut and still portable, I will put a regulator to fill it up at 90 lbs as well. Impact wrench and some other air tools are just too big to use straight off the deuce. I will keep you posted with pics if you like.

 

[General Mcgregor]

On a short trip down the road and on warm days I just drain the tanks fro the Emergency gladhand. Open gladhand, open valve behind it slowly. No dirty knees but be sure to drain it from the tanks every so often to keep the water out.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

On a short trip down the road and on warm days I just drain the tanks fro the Emergency gladhand. Open gladhand, open valve behind it slowly. No dirty knees but be sure to drain it from the tanks every so often to keep the water out.

WHY??

As I understand it...

The only reason to "drain" the tanks would be to evacuate any accumulated condensed water, or to completely depressurize the tanks/tubing for air system maintenance/repair. When only draining the condensate, you can close the cocks as soon as the air "blows clean/dry", WITHOUT dumping ALL of your pressurized air.

So....
Why are you dumping ALL of your air out through the gladhand, unless you just LIKE waiting for your air pressure to come back up with your next engine start while happily listening to the LOW AIR PRESSURE BUZZER???? Why not just STORE the pre-pressurized DRY air until your next run.

Of course....
Bleed off condensate as often as conditions warrant. Here in DRY west Texas, purging condensate is not a daily necessity. I often get just a slight sputter of wet air when I open my drain cocks, therefore, I lose less than 5 psi to accomplish this routine operational requirement.

Am I misguided here??? Let's hear from "the experts", please.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Wow sorry my 'expertese' dosen't rise to your level, But the fact is that keeping an air system at 120psi when not in use is just extra wear and tear on the system. The Army would have you drain the tanks every night regardless. And SINCE you need to warm up the engine for a few mins anyway why does it matter that you need to listen to your air buzzer for a few seconds??? Wow I was under the impression that everyone was entitled to express their own views and opinions on these threads without being hassled by other members who insist 'their way' is the 'right way'. My respect to the Moderators and my apologies for offending anyone.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Wow sorry my 'expertese' dosen't rise to your level, But the fact is that keeping an air system at 120psi when not in use is just extra wear and tear on the system. The Army would have you drain the tanks every night regardless. And SINCE you need to warm up the engine for a few mins anyway why does it matter that you need to listen to your air buzzer for a few seconds??? Wow I was under the impression that everyone was entitled to express their own views and opinions on these threads without being hassled by other members who insist 'their way' is the 'right way'. My respect to the Moderators and my apologies for offending anyone.

Sir:
Please accept my apology. NOTHING personal nor malicious was intended.

It was my sincere request for the experts to chime in on the topic also for the sake of educating ALL of us. I certainly do not claim to be an expert on the subject, nor did I intend to offend anyone.

Please take the time to re-read my post and imagine me sitting across the table with a big ol' smile on my somewhat confused face and a bit of giggle in my voice and maybe you'll visuallize a couple of good ol' boys exploring a new topic.

To quote my young step-diaughter.... CHILLAX - it wasn't meant the way you took it.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Sir:
Please accept my apology. NOTHING personal nor malicious was intended.

It was my sincere request for the experts to chime in on the topic also for the sake of educating ALL of us. I certainly do not claim to be an expert on the subject, nor did I intend to offend anyone.

Please take the time to re-read my post and imagine me sitting across the table with a big ol' smile on my somewhat confused face and a bit of giggle in my voice and maybe you'll visuallize a couple of good ol' boys exploring a new topic.

To quote my young step-diaughter.... CHILLAX - it wasn't meant the way you took it.

No harm done, I know the climate in dusty ol' texas tends to be on the dry side but in New England condensation builds up alot quicker. I may be misinformed but I was always instructed to drain the tanks after every use. It is alot easier then crawling under the truck if you have only gone a couple of mins down the road and back. But draining the condensation from the tanks is only really nessacary about twice a week in warm weather, but after EVERY USE in the winter just to be sure. I just want my Deuce to have a long healthy life! I am sure you do as well good sir.

 

[stumps]

Wow sorry my 'expertese' dosen't rise to your level, But the fact is that keeping an air system at 120psi when not in use is just extra wear and tear on the system. .

Keeping 120psi in the system causes no extra wear and tear on anything, but pumping it up from zero to 120psi certainly does increase the wear and tear on your compressor.

However, I truly doubt that either starting point will make a noticeable difference in how long the air parts last. Moisture is the biggest contributor to malfunction in the air system.

Also, there is a reason why the drain valves are on the bottom of the tank: That's where the water is. There is also a reason why none of the other air fittings are on the bottom of the tank: Again, that is where the water is. Draining your tank through the glad hand will not drain off the water from your tank.

-Chuck