help please M1008 electrical system

[moralb2000]

Hi guys

I'm sorry I posted already three times my message, but I'm trying to learn because I'm new user

I'd like to ask some help from experts on Chevy CUCV M1008, because I'm not good on electrical system:
I've bought the truck here in Italy. it's perfect and it runs well.
the only problem is that on dashboard there isn't the original voltmeter, but an amperometer (from Caterpillar maybe?) and it doesn't work. I have no way to get right answer from previous owner.
I suppose there's no trouble on electrical wiring (all lights and instruments operate correctly), but first I have to buy a new voltmeter, and I don't know if I need a 12v or a 24v instrument.
I don't know where to find the original one either.
I showed truck's electrical diagrams at car-repair electricians that I know, but I didn't have any clear answer, because we don't have in Italy any vehicle with electrical in 12v and 24v at same time.
I remember I read on steel-soldiers web-site that the expert said: everything on M1008 is 12v, except for starter and relay that operates starter; all the lights, gauges, etc, are stock Chevy 12v items.
so my question is:
is the voltmeter 12v also? is it stock Chevy part?

and other question:
for example, if I'd like to install (later maybe) an air compressor or a winch, do they have to be 12v or 24v?
many thanks

 

[Crash_AF]

The voltmeter is a military only part, not available from Chevy. Any 24V meter that fits in the hole will work fine.

The add ons depend on what you want to run them on. I would recommend 24V because it pulls less amperage than a same strength 12V one and you can hook it to the big junction blocks on the firewall.

Welcome to the site.

There is another 1008 owner in Italy who is a member of the site. Maybe he will chime in here with some local sources for parts.

Later,
Joe

 

[moralb2000]

The voltmeter is a military only part, not available from Chevy. Any 24V meter that fits in the hole will work fine.

The add ons depend on what you want to run them on. I would recommend 24V because it pulls less amperage than a same strength 12V one and you can hook it to the big junction blocks on the firewall.

Welcome to the site.

There is another 1008 owner in Italy who is a member of the site. Maybe he will chime in here with some local sources for parts.

Later,
Joe

thanks Joe, you're very nice, I'm going to find a 24v meter now.
I asked also the MVCC Italian branch to enrol me as new member club.
last one, do you know the nickname of other Italian owner?

 

[Crash_AF]

thanks Joe, you're very nice, I'm going to find a 24v meter now.
I asked also the MVCC Italian branch to enrol me as new member club.
last one, do you know the nickname of other Italian owner?

IGI is his username here, and his location is given as Lodi, Italy.

Later,
Joe

 

[moralb2000]

I checked M1008 Italian owners and earthmover dealers that I know, but for now, no way to find it here in Italy.

anyway, who is the voltmeter's manufacturer? Datcon maybe? or Autometer?

is there a way to find it in US ?

I mean, could I ask any Chevy dealer? I suppose NO...

so, if I have to serch on spare parts retailers, do you have any suggestion?

or may I ask some US ex military dealer?

and what about code or part number to looking for?

thanks, I really appreciate your help

 

[papakb]

moralb2000,

I've posted this before but it's always good to refresh memories.

Voltmeters read system voltage but if you have bad or corroded terminals it can show correct voltage and the batterys still won't be charging. It does show that the alternator output is working though.

Ammeters show the current flowing in a circuit, usually in and out of the batterys in a motor vehicle. If the battery is discharging it will show a negative current flow. If it's charging it will show a positive current flow. When the system is working correctly the meter should show some positive flow as the alternator recharges the energy used to start the truck and then should fall off to just above zero during operation. Anything else indicates a problem.

Hope this helps a little.

Kurt

 

[tamecrow]

but first I have to buy a new voltmeter, and I don't know if I need a 12v or a 24v instrument.

You can use a 12 volt meter and wire a 331 ohm resistor across the leads. The attached pic shows a white ceramic resistor (with the dab of pink paint) across the leads of a 12 volt meter, making it 24 volt.

 

[Oldsouthernboy]

Goodle for Saturn Surplus, they carry military parts, a volt meter from a 24V vehicle will work, even from a M35. Also a good source for other parts you may have to find just watch custom fees. The can get expensive in a hurry.

 

[mistaken1]

Welcome to the site.

Do you have access to an electrical multimeter?

If so check the leads on the back of the voltmeter for voltage.

If the proper voltage is there (24VDC nominal) then the meter needs to be replaced.

If you cannot read voltage at the existing voltmeter leads then the problem is elsewhere.

Something like this might work, the seller is in England.

BATTERY CONDITION METER 24V - VERY HIGH QUALITY UNUSED - eBay (item 300389831582 end time Dec-19-10 04:43:50 PST)

 

[ONTOS66]

The regular military voltmeters that most suppliers have are for the "regular" military trucks and have a single wire hookup. The one in the chevy CUCV has a two wire hookup. If you aren't handy with automotive electrical setups you might want to stick with a direct replacement or as close as you can get. I just went through this with my M1028.

Here is a source for 24 volt voltmeters and related items.

OKoffroad.com Stuff - 24 Volt DC Voltmeter

Good luck with your truck.

 

[DXTAC]

Can two separate voltmeters be ran to monitor each alternator individually? One 12V and one 24V? Theoretically in my mind, you would be able to run a 24V voltmeter to one alternator, a 12V voltmeter to the other alternator and an ammeter from the battery, right??? Would that work?

Thanks in advance,

 

[mistaken1]

Can two separate voltmeters be ran to monitor each alternator individually?

As long as the second meter is fully isolated. (negative terminal is not bonded to the metal mounting parts of the meter)

One 12V and one 24V?

Using the chassis (front battery negative post) as the negative meter connection for both meters then a 12V meter from the drivers side alternator output / front battery positive post and a 24V meter from the passenger side alternator output / back battery positive post would work.

Theoretically in my mind, you would be able to run a 24V voltmeter to one alternator, a 12V voltmeter to the other alternator and an ammeter from the battery, right??? Would that work?

Thanks in advance,

Which battery?