cucv design FLAW

[jamesonsdad]

first of all thank you WESTECH AND WARTHOG for advice on a earlier post....now for the ugly;today myself and a buddy changed the fuel pump in my m1009 old one came out easy accept for the lower cross member in the way and the back bolt almost (i said almost) impossible to get at and then the rod drops,well low and behold the 6.2 doesn't have the bolt in the front of the block to hold the rod like the GM gassers do.So after finally pushing it back and using a grease gun we got it to stay back long enough to slide the new pump in.well after two hours of fuel pump **** she's up and running again i now know why some people use electric fuel pumps as who ever dumb@#$ GM engineer didn't put any thought into changing the fuel pump in the field.Next time i'll just pull the motor it'll be quiker

 

[dstang97]

Try working on new vehicles then report back.

 

[jamesonsdad]

ouch......i'm pretty good with a wrench and my buddy has a shop and has been building for years and even he was baffled bye the pain in the #@$ this was that's all....

 

[Wolf.Dose]

If you would have checked the manual, the fuel pump change is to be done on an engine taken out of the truck. I once changed the fuel pump with the engine installed. As you found out, it is possible, however, a little tricky. So, why to complain about a successful work which was not included into the designe?
Wolf

 

[doghead]

Great title

 

[Varyag]

I just changed the lower intake gasket on a venture mini van... it is weaved in between the push rods.

The walls bled and the sky darkened for a min after the words I said about that GM engineer.

 

[ODdave]

I just changed the lower intake gasket on a venture mini van... it is weaved in between the push rods.

The walls bled and the sky darkened for a min after the words I said about that GM engineer.

Just did one of those today at work, Bout 3 hours (ive done a few) You do know that the rockers & rods should come off to change the gasket right?

As for the push rod, Buy some trans assembly Goo. It is great for holding things in place for assembly. Slather some on and that part will stay in its place.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Try doing one on the side of the road. LOL.

 

[JUNKYARDJOHN]

If you've ever seen them built, you'd understand why. (I worked at flint assy. in the 80s) They have whats called the body drop. A fully dressed body is lowered from the second floor onto a fully dressed chasis about 150 feet from ware they drive em off the final line. The last thing they care about is some poor guy doing any maintanance on them. They design them to make assembly as fast & easy as possible. PERIOD...... John

 

[91W350]

If you are lucky enough to have help for about 30 seconds, hold the push rod up in the block and have your partner bump the starter until the rod is at it highest point in the stroke. I just buy the backing plate or block off plate gasket when I buy the pump. I squirt both the rod and the hole with a shot of brake clean, then coat the rod with some wheel bearing grease. Stick it back in the hole, seal up the backing plate, then install the pump again. The tool to use is a 1/4" drive ratchet with a swivel until you cannot get that back bolt any tighter. I agree, it has to be the toughest job I have done on my CUCVs so far. Glen

 

[jdemaris]

.
(i said almost) impossible to get at and then the rod drops,well low and behold the 6.2 doesn't have the bolt in the front of the block to hold the rod like the GM gassers do.

It's not that bad. Main thing is - you have to clean the push-rod with paint thinner, or gas. Get all the oil residue off it. When clean and no longer slippery, you coat it with heavy grease and push it up.

I've put many in 6.2s that way. The key is getting the oil off the rod first.

I suspect GM did not put a "stop-bolt-hole" in the 6.2 because it wasn't their intention in the gas engines either. As I recall. Chiltons took credit for discovering that short-cut in the 1950s. Just so happened that one bolt hole on many gas engines is drilled all the way through to the push-rod bore.

 

[ODdave]

Speaking of PITA, serpentine belt on a 6.4 powerstroke pays 3 hours to change......WTF?

 

[davey8943]

Since OD dave brought up serpentine belts:

Try a serpentine belt on a '98 Olds 88... General Motors (in its infinite wisdom) ran the belt THROUGH the motor mount!

I don't think I would have been so mad if I wouldn't have been expecting a 15 minute (including beer drinking) job.

I have to think that there was a better way to design a REGULARLY SERVICED part...

Dave

 

[ODdave]

Since OD dave brought up serpentine belts:

Try a serpentine belt on a '98 Olds 88... General Motors (in its infinite wisdom) ran the belt THROUGH the motor mount!

I don't think I would have been so mad if I wouldn't have been expecting a 15 minute (including beer drinking) job.

I have to think that there was a better way to design a REGULARLY SERVICED part...

Dave

LMAO, yea thats stupid, realy sucks when stud with that spacer on it is siezed. then trying to explain to a customer that you have to charge them an hour labor to do it is always fun too.

THANKYOU ENGINEERS FOR JOB SECURITY

 

[Flyingvan911]

My friend Angelica had a Cutlass Sierra. All the water pump bolts are easy to reach buit one. It's just the nature of auto production to make is easy to build but tough to repair. More money for the mechanics.

 

[ODdave]

My friend Angelica had a Cutlass Sierra. All the water pump bolts are easy to reach buit one. It's just the nature of auto production to make is easy to build but tough to repair. More money for the mechanics.

was that the one behind the power steering pulley?

 

[JUNKYARDJOHN]

Yep... it took me 6 hours to put a thermostat in a ferd exploder once. It was a good thing I quoted that job by the hour. Customer probably still thinks I'm a thief though. Something I would do in one of my old chevy trucks in about 15 minutes. The car companys sure don't think about the poor guy doing regular old maintanence when they design them. John

 

[markg]

If you are lucky enough to have help for about 30 seconds, hold the push rod up in the block and have your partner bump the starter until the rod is at it highest point in the stroke. I just buy the backing plate or block off plate gasket when I buy the pump. I squirt both the rod and the hole with a shot of brake clean, then coat the rod with some wheel bearing grease. Stick it back in the hole, seal up the backing plate, then install the pump again. The tool to use is a 1/4" drive ratchet with a swivel until you cannot get that back bolt any tighter. I agree, it has to be the toughest job I have done on my CUCVs so far. Glen

i cant believe nobody admitted breaking the pump rod in half by not doing the above step first. the first one i did by myself i broke 2 in a row.

 

[73m819]

cucv DESIGN flaw

This is why thay make GREAT wheel chocks for BIG trucks

 

[nk14zp]