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batterys

jmsneorrcom

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I bought a 750 cca battery at a salvage yard - thought I would have a spare available - in the wiki it says to use 800CCA batterys. - so will this be useless in a CUCV?
 

doghead

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Original 6TL are 700-750CCA.
 

jdemaris

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I bought a 750 cca battery at a salvage yard - thought I would have a spare available - in the wiki it says to use 800CCA batterys. - so will this be useless in a CUCV?
6.2 starter draws around 300 amps when cranking at the usual 9 volts (if a 12 volt system) or 150 amps at 18 volts (if a 24 volt system).

A battery rated 750 CCA can deliver around 350-400 amps at 60-70 degrees F in a 12 volt system and 200 amps in a 24 volt system. At zero F, the battery power is cut in half. So, if you double the batteries - two at zero degrees F give the same power as one at 70 degrees F.

Thus the need for two big batteries. Between cranking, and first drawing maybe 60 amps of current for 10-15 seconds for the glow plugs -it takes pretty good battery power.

In warm weather, a 6.2 can start OK even with two 500 CCA batteries.
 

jdemaris

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So, your saying a battery looses cranking amps when it's warmer?

CCA is typically a rating at 0F

Advertised/rated cranking amps is typically at 32F
NO. I mean exactly what I already stated . . . i.e. "two at zero degrees F give the same power as one at 70 degrees F."

A typical battery for a diesel Blazer is a BCI # 78. Rated at 875 CA (that's at 32 F) and 700 CCA (that's at zero F). That battery in the real world - hooked to an amp-draw load-tester only puts out 350 amps at 70 degrees F and around 175 amps at 0 degrees F. Note I'm giving amps at normal cranking voltage. A 12 volt truck cranks at 9 volts and a 24 volt truck cranks at 18 volts.

Next time you look at a new battery advertised as 750 CCA, read the small print and it will tell you it only tests at 1/2 that.
 

doghead

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So, I need to ask the manufacturer for, the Fine print ratings?

Your information and postings are very confusing, it makes me wonder why you continue to post such stuff.

The OP asked about the CCA rating labeled on a used battery he bought. It is sufficient. It is directly comparable to the CCA rating on all batterys.
 
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jdemaris

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Any reputable battery seller will have to have load-test specs on hand, or they would not be able to test any batteries for warranty purposes. In general, batteries usually load-test at 1/2 their advertised CCA rating.

Also, batteries sold by BCI group # usually have to conform to minimum specs. 6.2 diesels usually use a pair of BCI # 78 batteries.

Also, most post full spec sheets in PDF files on line.

As I recall, there are only three companies making automotive starting batteries in the USA. Might be a fourth, but I forget at the moment.

Johnson Controls - makes batteries for Interstate, Subaru, Caterpillar, Sears, Walmart, etc.

Deka - makes batteries for many autoparts stores like NAPA. Also sells their own "Power Battery" brand. Also makes many HD batteries for off-road stuff.

Exide- formerly made batteries for Sears, NAPA, etc. but got dropped.
 

doghead

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Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ, Battery Manufacturers and Brand Names List, and


7.2. CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) Performance
If the battery is to used in a starting application, Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) performance is the second most important consideration; otherwise, for deep cycle applications, please skip this section and go to Section 7.3. Reserve Capacity (RC) or Amp Hour (AH) Capacity. The battery's CCA performance rating should meet (or just exceed) the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation or is best suited for the coldest temperatures encountered in your climate. BCI's definition of CCA is the discharge load measured in amps that a new, fully charged battery, operating at 0° F (-17.8° C), can deliver for 30 seconds while maintaining the voltage above 7.2 volts. Car and Marine Starting batteries are sometimes advertised by their CA (Cranking Performance Amps) measured at 32° F (0° C), MCA (Marine Cranking Amps) measured at 32° F (0° C), or HCA (Hot Cranking Amps) measured at 80° F (26.7° C). These measurements are not the same as CCA. Do not be misled by the higher CA, MCA or HCA ratings. To convert CA or MCA to CCA, multiply the CA or MCA by 0.8. To convert HCA to CCA, multiply HCA by 0.69. The British and International Electrotechnical Commision's definition of CCA are cranking for 180 seconds and down to 8.4 volts at 0° F (-17.8° C) and for 60 seconds and down to 8.4 volts at 0° F, (-17.8° C), respectively.
To start a four cylinder gasoline engine, you will need approximately 600-700 CCA; six cylinder gasoline engine, 700-800 CCA; eight cylinder gasoline engine, 750-850 CCA; three cylinder diesel engine, 600-700 CCA; four cylinder diesel engine, 700-800 CCA; and eight cylinder diesel engine, 800-1200 CCA. Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo have written a very handy Battery Cold-Cranking Amp Estimation calculator which can be found at http://www.bgsoflex.com/cca.html. To convert CCA, a SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) standard, to an EN (now known as ETN), IEC, DIN or JIS standard, please refer to the Conversion Table at www.cadex.com/_downloads/_support/SpectroQuickRefGuide.pdf from Cadex or http://web.archive.org/web/20050517213320/http://www.midtronics.com/manuals/power_sensor105_manual.pdf from Midtronics.
In hot climates, buying car or marine starting batteries with double or triple your vehicle's cold cranking amp requirements is a waste of money because the extra amps will not be used. A starter motor will only demand what it needs to operate. However, in extremely cold climates a higher CCA rating is better, due to increased power required to crank a sluggish engine and the inefficiency of a cold car battery. As car batteries age, they are also less capable of producing as much CCA as when they were new. According to BCI (Battery Council International), diesel engines require 220% to 300% more current than their gasoline counterparts and winter starting requires 140% to 170% more current than during summer. These increased requirements are accounted for in the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) CCA performance recommendations .
 

jdemaris

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So, I need to ask the manufacturer for, the Fine print ratings?

Your information and postings are very confusing, it makes me wonder why you continue to post such stuff.

The OP asked about the CCA rating labeled on a used battery he bought. It is sufficient. It is directly comparable to the CCA rating on all batterys.

So, facts confuse you?? Sorry.

If confused, then just don't read my posts. Simple solution. Maybe you are more comfortable with your head in the sand?

All batteries are not the same, and the advertised specs that many battery sellers use arr confusing and often misleading. That's why I like to stick with the hard facts instead of marketing BS.

Say what you want but . . . if you worked somewhere that sold batteries - you'd have specific figures about how to load-test each battery to find out if it was OK, or not OK.

All lead-acid batteries at 70 degrees F lose half their power at 0 degrees F.

CCA is not a very useful figure. It is the amps a battery can supply at zero degrees F for 30 seconds at 7.2 volts.

Big problem. Your 6.2 diesel will not crank at 7.2 volts. To judge a battery, you need to know the amps it can delivery at 9-10 volts. All cars and trucks crank at 9-10 volts and battery sellers will rarely tell you what the amp-supply rating is when actually being used.

So yeah, it can be confusing - but that's not my fault.

Whay don't you repost the correct info in simpler form so we all can benefit from it?

By they way, a pair of 500 CCA batteries with a high reserve-capacity can sometimes start an engine better then a pair of 800 CCA batteries with a short reserve capacity. Yeah, I just added more of those "confusing" facts.
 

doghead

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So, what about the OP's question. Can you answer that, simply? (like I did in post # 2?)

All the rest of this is useless to him. I highly doubt the OP found the answer to his question, amonst all your "facts".

fwiw, wiki's are far from absolute facts.

Also, I will continue to read your posts, even though your "style" doesn't seem to be the style we are used to or for that matter, all that useful. Sometimes, simple and to the point is best.
 
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jmsneorrcom

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I like simple - im as stong as an ox,twice as smart and three times better looking - so a yes or no would have been OK with me
thanks for the responses.
 

jdemaris

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So, what about the OP's question.

fwiw, wiki's are far from absolute facts.

Also, I will continue to read your posts, even though your "style" doesn't seem to be the style we are used to or for that matter, all that useful. Sometimes, simple and to the point is best.
Hmm. . . . I guess you have appointed yourself the official guardian to the guy that asked the incipient question?

I did attempt to answer his question - with specifics - in post #3. If he didn't understand it, or appreciate it - seems he could speak up on his own behalf instead of his newly appointed guardian ?

These ARE free posts. No charge for reading, and no penalty for NOT reading.

I posted nothing from WIKI- anything. WIKI is an interactive program so any dummy can add info to 1000s of different Websites running on HTML.

Sorry if you don't like my "style" of using facts and figures. I've worked as a HD mechanic and pump tech for over 40 years and I've found having knowledge comes in very handy.

By the way, you allude to the idea that you speak for "we." Who the heck is this "we?" Have you been appointed to speak for all forum members here?

If you actually own this forum, and don't want anybody using hard facts - fine. i'll assume you're a jerk and you can just ban me from "your" forum.. It won't upset me a bit.
 

Matt65

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I'm confused, can we review this again?:p

I believe I am running 2 group 31s. They are Blem batteries that I got from Interstate for ~$40/ pc. Normally around $100. They tested about 1100 cca @ 10v each. This measurement was taken at room temperature.

Back to the origional question. The 750 you got will work. My front battery had gotten down to only 350 before I replaced it. ( It always started, but I don't reccomend waiting this long to replace).
 
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emr

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Yes ....is the answer .... :beer:... they will be more than sufficient ..., keep all batteries charged and clean , a batt stored low sulphates faster and shortens its life, a simple fact we all can absorb... ouch... but fun...
 

zout

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Close this thread Admin.

There is no need for this infamitory posting when members do not take advice in whatever manner it comes.
There is absolutely no reason to slam members.

CCA of battieris is baisc - if you hare a HD mechanic - it is no different.
And yes I talk from experiece as I am 2011 CURRENT PHD certirfied GOLD in all fields - Service-Sales-Parts-Motorcloths - and this is only my part time job.

IF you are not current HD working for a dealership - the last time your certified is the last time you worked for a dealership.

Great info was given - no reason to get pissy over it.
 

3dAngus

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Well, anyway, yes, it will definitely work. It is always best to use two matched batteries. if a 24vdc system One battery, in normal usage, when in series with another could "pull another down" if there are a lot of sulfides and it will not charge at the same rate, so whenever you use a secondary battery it could pose problems over the longer term that are not readily obvious.

Even so, people mismatch batteries in these vehicles all the time and it might take a year or two for you to notice any appreciable difference. When you do, you just start all over.

Par for the course.
 

doghead

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Angus, were talking CUCV, they have separate alternator for each battery. Mismatched batteries in a CUCV, is no big deal. They have the ultimate charging system!
 
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