M101 How did you stretch your chains

[timntrucks]

i have the same set up.. short chain with 2 ends like in the pic.. works super

 

[Nick54]

I have kept a length of chain and a padlock with me and after uncoupling just looped the chain through the lunette ring wrapping it through the center and around as many times as needed to draw the two ends together and slip a padlock through. Works for me.

 

[jasonjc]

funny, JasonC and nick have the opposite position on where the "safety" chains should be attached. Anyone experienced a seperation that would not be covered by Nick's setup?

The truth is I worked for a company that would buy the cheapist receiver hitches they could. It would shear off the grade 8 bolts holding it on. I had to replace bolts more than once. Then when one of the other guys were driving the truck and had to make a hard stop, ALL the bolts broke and the hole receiver hitch came off. So either place the chains would have been of no use.

I got the new receiver hitch but got my butt chewed for spending too much, but never had it break again. The class 5 hitches cover a wide range of ratings ( I think it goes from 5,000lbs up to 20,000lbs.?.)

 

[Metternacht]

It has always been my understanding that the safety chains are to be attached to the vehicle frame/receiver hitch receiver. Never to just the hitch itself. If the hitch were to fail the chains are to keep the trailer and Tow vehicle attached. This is also why you are to cross the chains under the trailer tongue to catch and cradle the tongue in the event of a failure of the ball, pintle or receiver retaining pin.

I use two large screw type links in the chain loops of my hitch that the safety chains reach and hook onto. If I need longer I can just add a short section of chain to those with 2 more screw links. The truck is at home so I cant grab a quick photo. I'll try and post one later when I get home.

Just my two cents.

-M

 

[Pawnshop]

I THINK Texas law requires the safety chains to be attached to the frame/bumper/receiver housing, not the hitch itself. Required or not I think that is the safest way so they will catch the trailer if the hitch breaks. I have seen several of those raised, slide in pintle hitch adapters twisted up like toys, I don't trust them, straight slide in class 3 or stock military mount only for me. To lengthen the chains the quick links, properly rated, should do it safely.

 

[Nick54]

The truth is I worked for a company that would buy the cheapist receiver hitches they could. It would shear off the grade 8 bolts holding it on. I had to replace bolts more than once. Then when one of the other guys were driving the truck and had to make a hard stop, ALL the bolts broke and the hole receiver hitch came off. So either place the chains would have been of no use.

I got the new receiver hitch but got my butt chewed for spending too much, but never had it break again. The class 5 hitches cover a wide range of ratings ( I think it goes from 5,000lbs up to 20,000lbs.?.)

My comments were centered around Pawnshops post #10 concerning securing the lunette ring, I suppose I misread the overall thread, sorry if I added confusion.

 

[Dave Kay]

Is it me or are there two different conversations here? No big deal, Im not complainin, but I am tryin to figure out my reply, LOL...

For locking it when not in use, the lunette lock shown earlier is what I use. For hooking up to the truck, I use this... The hitch is mounted on an adjustable plate, with the safety chain plate mounted behind it. I had the problem of the chains not reaching the towbar safety chain loops. This keeps it closer to the trailer. Then I chain the whole hitch assembly to the tow bar, kinda overkill, cuz I dont think the pin would come out with the cotter pin clip on it

Looks like a very versatile hitch there Nick, mind if I ask: is it manufactured or home-made, or combination of both?

 

[wilber]

funny, JasonC and nick have the opposite position on where the "safety" chains should be attached. Anyone experienced a seperation that would not be covered by Nick's setup?

I agree with Jason, You should attach at the most solid point. The more degrees of separation, the more likely something can fail.

I have never failed a pin, but when I was a young lad in the oilfield I had bolts come out of receivers when the nuts backed off.

 

[Nick]

Looks like a very versatile hitch there Nick, mind if I ask: is it manufactured or home-made, or combination of both?

The hitch and pintle are all manufactured. All I did was add the chain plate behind the pintle and the 12 pin plug with the little pigtail to make it to the plugs on my truck. All this is just for the Dakota. When I get the Power Wagon runnin, itll have a more solid mount. My plan is to do the same plate for the chains behind the pintle, and its mounted right to the rear crossmember.

The reason I do what I did is cuz the chains won't reach the truck. So would it actually be safer to add links to the chains to make it to the truck?? My thought is they make it to the plate, then I chain the hitch to the truck... seems safer than a weak link in the chain...

Nick

 

[lexluther]

... shear off the grade 8 bolts holding it on. ... had to make a hard stop, ALL the bolts broke and the hole receiver hitch came off. So either place the chains would have been of no use. ...

Yikes!!!

... safety chains are to be attached to the vehicle frame/receiver hitch receiver. Never to just the hitch itself. If the hitch were to fail the chains are to keep the trailer and Tow vehicle attached...
-M

This is basically what I was thinking, my previous experience is with sissy civilian trailers...

I use two large screw type links in the chain loops of my hitch that the safety chains reach and hook onto. If I need longer I can just add a short section of chain to those with 2 more screw links. The truck is at home so I cant grab a quick photo. I'll try and post one later when I get home...-M

Pics are greatly appreciated, I like to gather as much info as I can before I start making changes, even on somthing as "dumb" as this...I know, I cant help it...

... I have seen several of those raised, slide in pintle hitch adapters twisted up like toys, I don't trust them, straight slide in class 3 or stock military mount only for me...

Bummer, thats what I am stuck with...I will have to use caution...

...I have never failed a pin, but when I was a young lad in the oilfield I had bolts come out of receivers when the nuts backed off.

Maybe, I will take a hammer to those threads for a little added measure of security.

THANKS everyone for the help, keep it comming...
Lex

 

[Nick]

I agree with Jason, You should attach at the most solid point. The more degrees of separation, the more likely something can fail.

I have never failed a pin, but when I was a young lad in the oilfield I had bolts come out of receivers when the nuts backed off.

The hitch and pintle are rated at 15000#, and the bolts are grade 8 with lock nuts, not nylocks, but the tapered....bald moment, cant remember what they are called... anyway, its all torqued down. Not sayin stuff cant happen, but if you pay attention and check your equipment before each trip, and at intervals during the trip............. again,

 

[lexluther]

I will get more use out of that change than what was promised in November....LOL
Thanks