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Or a crane
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Towbar Incident Report
- Thread starter Ferroequinologist
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Sorry for putting you on the spot with the pins Gimp 
Even with what happened, I will continue to flat tow. I will pickup with my lowboy trailer more often than flat tow though, once I get the ramps fixed. But I'm not scared of it, and have done it safely many many many many times. I will figure out something better for pin retention though. And when I do, I'll post it up. The key is, drive smart, drive safe, drive ahead. And the towed truck did weigh only about 10k, it was missing a bed and some other parts. I have a rig to add an air line to a towed deuce, but I couldn't use it, as this deuce had a really bad front wheel cylinder, and leaked really bad.
I'm glad that this did spark a discussion, and a good one at that.
Even with what happened, I will continue to flat tow. I will pickup with my lowboy trailer more often than flat tow though, once I get the ramps fixed. But I'm not scared of it, and have done it safely many many many many times. I will figure out something better for pin retention though. And when I do, I'll post it up. The key is, drive smart, drive safe, drive ahead. And the towed truck did weigh only about 10k, it was missing a bed and some other parts. I have a rig to add an air line to a towed deuce, but I couldn't use it, as this deuce had a really bad front wheel cylinder, and leaked really bad.
I'm glad that this did spark a discussion, and a good one at that.
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So I guess you won't want to sell me your towbar for $40?
Heavysteven
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Glad your ok, when I read your first post my mouth dropped. Talk about bad press, the first thing they would have asked is how did you get that truck....
Thanks for sharing, there are to many people out there that do not understand the risks related to towing and how important it is to secure a load properly. The fact is if you lose a load and hurt any one there going to sue. Plus you can go to jail.
Very informative thread. Just some additional info Class C drivers license may tow a trailer less than 10,001 lbs GVWR and GCWR can not exceed 26,001 lbs.
Thanks for sharing, there are to many people out there that do not understand the risks related to towing and how important it is to secure a load properly. The fact is if you lose a load and hurt any one there going to sue. Plus you can go to jail.
Very informative thread. Just some additional info Class C drivers license may tow a trailer less than 10,001 lbs GVWR and GCWR can not exceed 26,001 lbs.
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Well at least he had the CORRECT pins in the CORRECT direction, not like a to remain unnamed member who had a tow bared deuce try to pass him
gimpyrobb
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No problem Adam, when I first got that lot of pins, I had about 35 available, now I am sold out.
ODdave
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well as much attention as this thread is getting i suspect tow bars will be illegal to use soon. (ya know the stalkers that monitor us crazy green people) Better get rid of mine while there still worth more than scrap........
stampy
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If anything I think this discussion shows how MUCH most of us care about safety. And Ferro!
Sorry man had to do it...
Sorry man had to do it...
NEWVENTURESENTERPRISESINC
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Towbar Pins - OEM
For safety's sake, please always use the correct pins. We are one of two OEM manufacturers of the 3/4" & 1.00" Medium Towbar Pin assemblies. These pins undergo a lengthy manufacturing process with military grade processing and inspection. This includes machining the pins from cold drawn steel, grades 1040 - 1050 IAW ASTM A108, Heat treating to C 18 - 27, Heavy Phosphate Coating & Dry Film Lube.. Then there is the manufacture of the locking pin and retainer lanyard using military grade aircraft stainless steel braided wire, stainless steel crimped sleeves and an OD coated locking pin. With that said, I'm not trying to sell pins here, but just giving some insight as to how critical these pins are to safely towing your vehicle.
For safety's sake, please always use the correct pins. We are one of two OEM manufacturers of the 3/4" & 1.00" Medium Towbar Pin assemblies. These pins undergo a lengthy manufacturing process with military grade processing and inspection. This includes machining the pins from cold drawn steel, grades 1040 - 1050 IAW ASTM A108, Heat treating to C 18 - 27, Heavy Phosphate Coating & Dry Film Lube.. Then there is the manufacture of the locking pin and retainer lanyard using military grade aircraft stainless steel braided wire, stainless steel crimped sleeves and an OD coated locking pin. With that said, I'm not trying to sell pins here, but just giving some insight as to how critical these pins are to safely towing your vehicle.
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New Venture, would it be possible to buy the correct pins from your company, if so , how much, thank you
NEWVENTURESENTERPRISESINC
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We can be contacted at kanderson@newventures.org for more information on the 1.00" & 3/4" Medium Towbar Pin Assemblies.
3dAngus
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I could not agree with you more on the pins. I just pulled a towbar apart yesterday that had a grade 8 bolt holding the legs together. It was the standard 3/4" size, but grade 8 did not hold up. It had "rings" from wear embedded all the way around the bolt where the bolt would "turn" inside the towbar legs, and it would wear them down. This is the first time I have seen a grade 8 bolt used on a towbar, but I have heard of it before, while I have always encouraged mil-spec pins. Now I know my assumption is correct where mil-spec pins are safer, and better than grade 8 bolts. I will try to put up a picture of the wear later. Thanks for your comments newventures.For safety's sake, please always use the correct pins. We are one of two OEM manufacturers of the 3/4" & 1.00" Medium Towbar Pin assemblies. These pins undergo a lengthy manufacturing process with military grade processing and inspection. This includes machining the pins from cold drawn steel, grades 1040 - 1050 IAW ASTM A108, Heat treating to C 18 - 27, Heavy Phosphate Coating & Dry Film Lube.. Then there is the manufacture of the locking pin and retainer lanyard using military grade aircraft stainless steel braided wire, stainless steel crimped sleeves and an OD coated locking pin. With that said, I'm not trying to sell pins here, but just giving some insight as to how critical these pins are to safely towing your vehicle.
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Glad to hear nothing bad happened Adam!
I hate Adventures in Towing, every time I hook something up the pucker factor goes WAY up. Most times nothing happens, but every so often....
Remember this one from 2007? Notice how my friend didn't hook up the air brake lines or safety chains. PLUS, take a close look at the pintle hitch.
I hate Adventures in Towing, every time I hook something up the pucker factor goes WAY up. Most times nothing happens, but every so often....
Remember this one from 2007? Notice how my friend didn't hook up the air brake lines or safety chains. PLUS, take a close look at the pintle hitch.
Attachments
emr
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Tow bars are meant for recovery of vehicles , long and short, period, A convoy say like the one that when NJ Guard went to Louisiana and back, with a few m series vehicles and some HEMMITs to tow em home again, one thinks only NJ would do something like this with vehicles that old, BUT it IS done all the time , NO unit towing there vehicles is going to drop there trucks off to another states guard unit, they would laugh at them , in theater and in CONUS these trucks have been tow barred for many hundreds of miles at a time when needed. there is no bulletins of failures or not to do this, and wheeled vehicles have been doing this on roads for a long long time, Now the weak welds of one particular nsn number tow bars required all to be upgraded, that just made sense, but remember they worked fine before that, Now a tow should by rule always be slow and the shortest distance, that is what it says and that makes sense, As far as the Mraps , these vehicles are just soooo much heavier than ours it just makes sense to say in the manual to get a dedicated wrecker asap . and the bigger the vehicle the more dangerous it is. Like said here, the pins do bend and brake and the main pin will then fall out, that is driver error, its happened to me and was my fault not the fault of the devise, we are in control of the devise, it is up to us, Replace the snap pins and watch for wear, but I do not need to replace the main pins unless they are noticeably worn, No one should hook up and drive 300 miles with out scheduled maintenance stops to look feel and inspect all, the more U do it the more safe U will be. Chains need to be secured, tape to hold in place a clevis is fine , the clevis takes the pull not the tape. but use common sense, look at it, if it looks like when needed the clevis on the safety chain when pulled will force the clevis tighter than it is correct, If anyone does not feel this type of tow works, PLEASE never do it, U may be feeling more than U know. this is a good thread, all printed info should be read and re read. towing a deuce with a deuce is not for the inexperienced, But to get the experience, i have said before, hook up the best u know, in a large enough lot, and hit 25 and slam on the brakes, and do it at 30 if u think U will be driving that fast, do Not Wait until U need to it to find out how well U will handle it, the truck will do just fine, People need the practice and experience, ![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
Personally I LOVE to tow bar and have been doing it with many types of vehicles for many many years, I can get a Mule a Jeep and 2 deuces to a show by myself and done it, I have hooked up deuce to 5 ton and deuce to deuce or to jeep by myself so many times now i just do it, I have tow barred my mule in short convoys with the deuce for fun also, .... do it and do it safe , remember the only one to blame if it hits , is the driver, not the vehicle. so keep it safe...
again, one thinks only NJ would do something like this with vehicles that old, BUT it IS done all the time , NO unit towing there vehicles is going to drop there trucks off to another states guard unit, they would laugh at them , in theater and in CONUS these trucks have been tow barred for many hundreds of miles at a time when needed. there is no bulletins of failures or not to do this, and wheeled vehicles have been doing this on roads for a long long time, Now the weak welds of one particular nsn number tow bars required all to be upgraded, that just made sense, but remember they worked fine before that, Now a tow should by rule always be slow and the shortest distance, that is what it says and that makes sense, As far as the Mraps , these vehicles are just soooo much heavier than ours it just makes sense to say in the manual to get a dedicated wrecker asap . and the bigger the vehicle the more dangerous it is. Like said here, the pins do bend and brake and the main pin will then fall out, that is driver error, its happened to me and was my fault not the fault of the devise, we are in control of the devise, it is up to us, Replace the snap pins and watch for wear, but I do not need to replace the main pins unless they are noticeably worn, No one should hook up and drive 300 miles with out scheduled maintenance stops to look feel and inspect all, the more U do it the more safe U will be. Chains need to be secured, tape to hold in place a clevis is fine , the clevis takes the pull not the tape. but use common sense, look at it, if it looks like when needed the clevis on the safety chain when pulled will force the clevis tighter than it is correct, If anyone does not feel this type of tow works, PLEASE never do it, U may be feeling more than U know. this is a good thread, all printed info should be read and re read. towing a deuce with a deuce is not for the inexperienced, But to get the experience, i have said before, hook up the best u know, in a large enough lot, and hit 25 and slam on the brakes, and do it at 30 if u think U will be driving that fast, do Not Wait until U need to it to find out how well U will handle it, the truck will do just fine, People need the practice and experience, Personally I LOVE to tow bar and have been doing it with many types of vehicles for many many years, I can get a Mule a Jeep and 2 deuces to a show by myself and done it, I have hooked up deuce to 5 ton and deuce to deuce or to jeep by myself so many times now i just do it, I have tow barred my mule in short convoys with the deuce for fun also, .... do it and do it safe , remember the only one to blame if it hits , is the driver, not the vehicle. so keep it safe...
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Good words Randy!
Jump Start
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I am glad to hear you are OK I am sure this scared the pee out of both of you. Take care
ODw/envy
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Good thread and great info.
Can someone give me the width of an m35 shackle mount.
Please do not refer me to the search section. I have been looking for 2 days. I can not find a reference specific to the width of an m35 shackle mount.
I used some pictures from another thread and did some scaling to find the other measurements I need. It appears that the inside width of the 1 inch adapter feet in 1.75". I need to know if the mounts are the same.
Can someone give me the width of an m35 shackle mount.
Please do not refer me to the search section. I have been looking for 2 days. I can not find a reference specific to the width of an m35 shackle mount.
I used some pictures from another thread and did some scaling to find the other measurements I need. It appears that the inside width of the 1 inch adapter feet in 1.75". I need to know if the mounts are the same.
1983M35A2
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did u say pucker factor.
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nk14zp
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Mine are 1.50" wide.