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Imron paint

RealCavDog

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Have used it on many various projects, but none that would really apply to the types of equipment related to this forum ! In my humble opinion, due to the price, complexity of formulation variables and projected durabilty, you would really be closer to ultimate satisfaction with a true C.A.R.C. product.

I realize that you have not specified an application or desired finish, so I may be talking out of turn ! This sight does cover aviation (Highly recommended and designed for), and various other arenas of interest, and I look forward to other opinions, but I will say that even with my experience with street rods, custom show trucks, (Chrome Shop Mafia) and fiberglass boats, after all my years of being a DuPont Imron fan, I actually started seeing better long term results from the Ditzler/PPG Deltron base/clear system.

And I cannot say enough about their DP40 (and other colors !) epoxy primer system for long term durability, but again, my next project will be a M35A2, and after all my research, it WILL be the Sherwin Williams water based C.A.R.C. system with a 383 green base !

But, as we all know, opinions are like ---holes, and if you ask 5 bodymen for an opinion, you will get 7 answers ! Research, Review and do it right, in YOUR opinion, the first time !
 

glcaines

Well-known member
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2,593
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I've used Imron on my airplane and was very satisfied with the wear durability, but the red color is fading fairly fast. The expense would preclude using it on MVs in my opinion. I've had great luck with Gillespie paints.
 

flyxpl

New member
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Location
Chatham IL
I have used sherwin williams Jet Glow which is their version of Duponts Imron . On my airboat in flat army green it has held up well being kept inside . I have used it on my Bobcat to repaint the faded factory orange on the rims and engine door . It is also kept inside most of the time , but like the Imron red it to has started to fade some . Another thing to think about is that carc also has a major fading problem .
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
I know they use it to paint locomotives. It is expensive but very tough. It all depends on how much work you want to go to. It would be interesting to see the results.
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Don't use Imron, unless your going to go down to bare metal (sandblast) and start from scratch. Its too expensive not to do a good job all the way through. My transport truck has had red on it - Imron, and is still holding up well for the last 20 years. Maybe it will start to fade in the next 20
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
30
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Yeah - flat.... I forget how its done, but I think its a clear-coat, over the top of a color. Mostly its done on the hoods, to cut the glare.
 

Nonotagain

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Location
Parkville, MD
Imron is just DuPont's trade name for a polyurethane enamel paint. They were one of the first to offer polyurethane to the trade. Just like Coca-Cola being "Coke".

The rap that Imron received was that it chipped too easy and a lot of painters didn't like spraying it due to the smell. Well, it wasn't the smell, it was the isocynates that caused the problems. All of this occurred before painters started wearing the proper paint PPE.

CARC paint is a whole lot less expensive than Imron due to the military purchasing hundreds of thousands of gallons a year.

In my experience with aerospace and military paints, you will never be able to add enough flattening agent to produce a flat, lack of gloss paint without causing a major change in the coating system. The pigments used in the 30,000 series paint colors (flat, non-sheen) are milled to a different sizing than the 20,000 series colors which are semi-gloss.

The new waterborne CARC, Mil-Dtl-64159 using the polymeric beads for a flattener is a very good product, though I don't care for waterborne products as a whole due to adhesion issues. Provided that you start with a properly prepared surface, use a high quality primer and apply the topcoat at the prescribed thickensses, you should be able to produce a finish that is equal to a factory applied finish.
 
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