kennys@wi.rr.com
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On Saturday my Deuce died at my shop and it was suggested to me that my hydraulic head may be the problem. I spent the last few days reading threads on what to check and how to go about removing the head and I talked to Gimp about it. I will admit that at first the idea of diving into any part of the IP scared me a little bit. The price tag of a new IP or even just the head scared me more though. But I dug in and did it. I found the problem and am in the process of taking care of that problem. I noticed when reading all the threads there was great information and good diagrams, but no real world pictures. So what I did was take lots of pictures to help the next guy do this job a little easier and to help me remember how it all goes back together. I will do my best to explain what the pictures are and hope they help. Also when reading this I know there will be a few people out there that will point out why I am wrong how I did it wrong and what I should have done. That's great, why didn't you post a thread when you did it and share with us all what you learned? If there is a tip that can help please add it, if there is a reason why I'm an idiot, well add it to the list.
One thing I learned was there is a plunger inside the HH that moves up and down on a cam. This plunger can become stuck if any debry gets past your fuel filters or with the ULSD fuels that do not propperly lubricate our pumps. The first pic shows the tp of the HH. Remove the bolt/plug in the center. It's a 3/4" and may be better reached with a nonimpact socket because it's a bit tight in there. Remove the plug and be very careful not to let anything get into that hole. Might be a wise idea to spray the area with a cleaner first and then wipe it or blow it off. Now get a wooden dowl or a soft metal drift and someone to turn the motor over for you. When the motor is turning that dowl/drift should move up and down. If it does not, as mine did not, then here is your problem. Use the down/drift and hammer to lightly tap on the plunger. This may free up the plunger. Do not hit it too hard, there is a small button on the bottom of the plunger that can be easily knocked loose, this is a bad thing to have happen. After tapping if the plunger has gone down turn the motor over again and see if it is now moving. If it moves great, hope that it was a fluke and carry on. If not,as mine did not, you have more work to do.
To remove the HH it's not that hard, took me a little over an hour with taking pictures. Make sure you have some way of marking your fuel lines. I'm sure there is only one way for them to go back in as long as you don't bend them, but why waste the time trying each lines fit, just lable them and be done with it. Also remember the order they come off and reverse that order to replace them. What I found worked best for me was to do the lines to the cylinders in this order: 5,3, 6, 2, 1, 4. Again as stated earlier I'm sure someone has a better way, but this is what worked for me. There is also the over flow T in the front of the HH to come off. Those lines ar 7/16" if memory serves me correct. Then the fuel line to the back of the HH and I believe that was a 9/16". It is much easier to get to that back fuel with all the injector lines out of the way first. when you look at the second pic you will see a cover with 2 screws just below the HH. That is the cover for the fuel shut off valve. Remove this cover and it should look something like the third pic. Slide off the clip that holds the slide bar on. Then cut the wire holding the retaining screws in place and remove the screws. The whole piece will slide out now. Be careful as there is a piece on the end of that shaft that spins on a very small pin. In the last pic you can see the gear inside that housing and just above the gear in te middle of the housing is a small indicator arrow. My gear has a red and scorred tooth, your may only be scored. This is not easy to see with the fender in place. You can see it here because I was able to lower the camera in place. For you to see it you will need to crawl under the fender and look through the vent slots, and even then it's not easy. That tooth muct line up with that indicator, that's the only positiong the HH will come out in. To line that up you need to rotate the motor. Here is where you need to do what works best for you. When that is lined up remove the 4 nuts that hold the HH down. There are clips under the nuts and on top of the HH, don't lose them. Then as long as the gear is in the right position the HH should be able to be picked straight up and out.
One thing I learned was there is a plunger inside the HH that moves up and down on a cam. This plunger can become stuck if any debry gets past your fuel filters or with the ULSD fuels that do not propperly lubricate our pumps. The first pic shows the tp of the HH. Remove the bolt/plug in the center. It's a 3/4" and may be better reached with a nonimpact socket because it's a bit tight in there. Remove the plug and be very careful not to let anything get into that hole. Might be a wise idea to spray the area with a cleaner first and then wipe it or blow it off. Now get a wooden dowl or a soft metal drift and someone to turn the motor over for you. When the motor is turning that dowl/drift should move up and down. If it does not, as mine did not, then here is your problem. Use the down/drift and hammer to lightly tap on the plunger. This may free up the plunger. Do not hit it too hard, there is a small button on the bottom of the plunger that can be easily knocked loose, this is a bad thing to have happen. After tapping if the plunger has gone down turn the motor over again and see if it is now moving. If it moves great, hope that it was a fluke and carry on. If not,as mine did not, you have more work to do.
To remove the HH it's not that hard, took me a little over an hour with taking pictures. Make sure you have some way of marking your fuel lines. I'm sure there is only one way for them to go back in as long as you don't bend them, but why waste the time trying each lines fit, just lable them and be done with it. Also remember the order they come off and reverse that order to replace them. What I found worked best for me was to do the lines to the cylinders in this order: 5,3, 6, 2, 1, 4. Again as stated earlier I'm sure someone has a better way, but this is what worked for me. There is also the over flow T in the front of the HH to come off. Those lines ar 7/16" if memory serves me correct. Then the fuel line to the back of the HH and I believe that was a 9/16". It is much easier to get to that back fuel with all the injector lines out of the way first. when you look at the second pic you will see a cover with 2 screws just below the HH. That is the cover for the fuel shut off valve. Remove this cover and it should look something like the third pic. Slide off the clip that holds the slide bar on. Then cut the wire holding the retaining screws in place and remove the screws. The whole piece will slide out now. Be careful as there is a piece on the end of that shaft that spins on a very small pin. In the last pic you can see the gear inside that housing and just above the gear in te middle of the housing is a small indicator arrow. My gear has a red and scorred tooth, your may only be scored. This is not easy to see with the fender in place. You can see it here because I was able to lower the camera in place. For you to see it you will need to crawl under the fender and look through the vent slots, and even then it's not easy. That tooth muct line up with that indicator, that's the only positiong the HH will come out in. To line that up you need to rotate the motor. Here is where you need to do what works best for you. When that is lined up remove the 4 nuts that hold the HH down. There are clips under the nuts and on top of the HH, don't lose them. Then as long as the gear is in the right position the HH should be able to be picked straight up and out.
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