Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

[scrapdaddy]

As with anything, once you take it apart, the fear starts to leave and you begin to understand how it works. Now alll I need are the little clips and figure out how to compress the spring enough to install the clips. The book says to use a press, I always wanted a good press

Thanks guys!

 

[stevegr]

Believe it or not I used one of my hands to compress the plunger spring and the other to carefully install both valve locks.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, that's how I lost one taking them off. I'm going to try a more controllable method. Book says to use a press. I would like to have both hands free to fudge with clips.

Thanks

 

[gimpyrobb]

Greg, glad you got it going. Sorry I couldn't help, I was out of town at the Merango show this weekend.

 

[peashooter]

Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I used it as directions on how to remove the HH so I could replace the o-rings and fix the leak I had in that area...... unfortunately I learned afterwords that the orings werent where it was leaking afterall. I found the leak was that 16 point screw thing on the side of the HH and after removing it, cleaning, and reinstalling it leaks worse than ever. Now I need to find where to get a new one of those

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

I've never played with that screw. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Peashooter, those are known to crack and leak. Might want to see if AMBAC sells them. It took me 4 different IPs to find one that would work with my truck when mine cracked.

Kenny, I just took apart an IP and the head had the bottom parts fall off. Any way you could walk me through putting it back together? My biggest concern is, is the plunger oriented to anything in the HH? The plunger has a square section near the bottom, does anything need to line up with the "bow tie" thing you cracked?

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

The plunger should have machined portion on the bottom that looks like a loaf of bread. That lines up in the butterfly washer where it looks like the loaf of bread. If you need anything more just give me a call in the morning. I would say now but I need to get some sleep, just took a day trip to KY and back.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I just got it apart today, won't look at it till tomorrow anyway. I think you answered what I needed. Thanx

 

[peashooter]

Peashooter, those are known to crack and leak. Might want to see if AMBAC sells them. It took me 4 different IPs to find one that would work with my truck when mine cracked.

Kenny, I just took apart an IP and the head had the bottom parts fall off. Any way you could walk me through putting it back together? My biggest concern is, is the plunger oriented to anything in the HH? The plunger has a square section near the bottom, does anything need to line up with the "bow tie" thing you cracked?

I'm all good now, Scott (tie6044) got me one of those funkly little HH screws and it finally fixed my leak.... no more spotted driveway or stinkly cab when driving anymore. Thanks again for the great write ups on IP/HH repair.

 

[deuceaid]

nice resource, thanks for making it,,,,,and now I am adding lapping compound to my "to get" list.

 

[dodgedougak]

Gimpy....hope you can help me out. I have another thread about my motor quitting on me, but in researching this and other threads, I have been troubleshooting the engine. Using the info here, I removed the hyd. head today. I found the keeper and button from the bottom of the plunger to be off the plunger and laying in the lower casing. It appears from the thread that you are the man on these things. Do you have new or overhauled HH's? Do you have links to anyone who does? What is the chance that the barrel/plunger may be OK and that I can just reattach the button and keeper? How would you go with this? Thanks

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

Try to move the plunger by hand up and down and rotating it. If it moves smooth, not easy, it's fine. Many times the button just falls off and needs to be put back on. Inspect the keeper spring to make sure there are no cracks or breaks. I that needs to be replaced I couldn't tell you where to get one. Maybe try an injection shop. Considering when I looked up the part number I found it to be the same or similar to that used on a Case tractor I would start with a farm dealer.

 

[dodgedougak]

Thanks Kenny. I will have to try to find a shop in town with a press so I can take the spring and keepers off the plunger shaft. It seems the plunger is stuck in the barrel, but hard to tell with the spring pressure. We don't have any injector shops in Juneau, so I will have to send it to Seattle or Anchorage if the plunger is seized. I would love to know of a shop that has an overhauled HH in stock. I would get that coming in the AM and then send mine in for a core or to be overhauled and sent back to me. Let me know if you have any good sources. Regards

 

[hilber]

Threads like this is why I love this site.

 

[salvorone@aol.com]

did you use valve lapping compound to lap the shaft? or jewlers rouge?
GREAT POST, glat you posted this ,

 

[Jesse6325]

Considering that the IP on any diesel is the spookiest part on the engine you guys are incedible!

 

[phil2968]

Dodgedougak, Floridanson has heads for sale in the classifieds. I picked one up from him and it worked great. Check him out he is a great guy.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ditto to what Phil said. Thats what I sent you in my PM. I will still try to find the info on a new "keeper" for that button too.

Edit, info here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/...ic-head-ring-clip-needed-hold-button-rod.html

 

[dodgedougak]

Thanks folks. Looking at this unit, it is clear that the plunger is stuck in the "up" position in the barrel. The spring is fully compressed. This unit will need a new barrel and plunger. I am going to be driving this rig on the ALCAN convoy in Aug. and don't want to experiment with polishing out the barrel/plunger unit. I may do that later with this bad unit, to keep as a UBG spare? I have PM'd Floridianson, thank you for the heads-up.