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deuce filter micron size

eagle4g63

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Ok, so I went to Napa and bought the #3512 secondary filters EVERYONE seems to be using on their deuce, I asked the guy what the micron size was he replied 10(ten), I had him look up the 3511 primary and he came up with 10(ten). I am converting the primary to a spin on with the filter base #4770(which I have one for the oil filtering rig cause it is NON-bypass) and went with the filter #3522 it is a 10 micron with water separation drain.

NOW, my question I have (which I can't seem to find a straight answer) is W-T-H is the ACTUAL micron size from the MILITARY!!! Some say the primary is larger than 10 and others say not, some say the secondary is smaller than 10 and other say not.:cookoo: I am soooo confused.

Second question, would it be wrong to go to a finer micron on the secondaries when I convert them to spin on???( too much resistance for the injector pump to keep feed)

Third, why are we bothering to pre-filter the used motor oil down past the micron of the filters on the truck(or better yet why at all) if we can just reach under the truck and change the primary with the same flick of the wrist that we take to change the one on the filtering rig(and the same cost!!!!) just save lots of time and the cost of the filtering rig(pumps, housings, fittings and what not) instead of just buying more filters(that you would buy for the filtering rig anyway)

Anyway took enough of your time on this one(This is my first MV so hope you guys understand)
 

wreckerman893

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I filter when I pull the used oil from it's source via the filter on my pump, I filter the warm WMO through two 10 micron filters and I filter it through the pump again when I blend the "Deuce Juice". It gets one last filtering when it is pumped into the tank.

Since the stock filters are 10 microns I don't see any reason to go lower than that...I filter to get crud and water out.

The IP on a deuce is fairly forgiving as far as what goes through it.....you just have to get the water out.....WATER BAD.
 

GoinNutts

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I see what your saying about the filter rigs for pre-filtering before you fill your tank. Why have 4 filters ( 2 in the truck and 2 on the pre-filter rig). This was my same thought. When I convert my trucks filters over to spin on then that is when I plan to try running WMO and diesel. I plan to run all my WMO through a 10 micron before it goes in the tank just to prevent any sand /debris that might fall into the drain pan while draining the oil. I only plan on running the oil from my rigs that I change. I won't be going around and collecting it form all the Jiffy Lubes in town. I have first hand experience and know what ends up in drain pans and that would be the only reason you might want to heavily filter the WMO.
 

NMCShooter

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Dawsonville, GA
Third, why are we bothering to pre-filter the used motor oil down past the micron of the filters on the truck(or better yet why at all) if we can just reach under the truck and change the primary with the same flick of the wrist that we take to change the one on the filtering rig(and the same cost!!!!) just save lots of time and the cost of the filtering rig(pumps, housings, fittings and what not) instead of just buying more filters(that you would buy for the filtering rig anyway)

Anyway took enough of your time on this one(This is my first MV so hope you guys understand)
It's your call, bro......would you rather have a clogged filter that prevents further progress in your shop....or on the interstate. Because they WILL clog.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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North/west Indiana
I see your point in NOT wanting to have to change on the highway, HOWEVER, you guys seem to get about 2 barrels of oil from one filter on the rig(I haven't used mine enough yet to know) I also understand the "sand, water, and crud" but I do use a funnel and a paint strainer from an auto body shop( I paint on the side so PLENTY of them) on ANYTHING that goes into the tank of the deuce.

It seems to me that you just change your primary filter every other tank or so and call it good. I am pretty annal about my stuff and changing fluids and filters on a regular basis. So instead of every 6,000 miles (on straight diesel) you would change say every 2,000 or so? I guess I would have to see how dirty they are the first few times.

Anyway, Anybody have any feelings on going to say a 8 micron or 6 micron final filter? Any pro's or would I just be asking for trouble out of the IP not getting enough flow?

P.S. any of my oil(and I gets all I can use) comes from 3 places, Me, my buddy(who is also annal about changing the fluid in his lawn equipment-it's how he makes his living so don't want one down) or third from his uncle who owns a trucking company and I know the mechanic and he separates EVERYTHING so I know what I get from him-nice stuff.
 

cranetruck

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Ok, so I went to Napa and bought the #3512 secondary filters EVERYONE seems to be using on their deuce, I asked the guy what the micron size was he replied 10(ten), I had him look up the 3511 primary and he came up with 10(ten). I am converting the primary to a spin on with the filter base #4770(which I have one for the oil filtering rig cause it is NON-bypass) and went with the filter #3522 it is a 10 micron with water separation drain.

NOW, my question I have (which I can't seem to find a straight answer) is W-T-H is the ACTUAL micron size from the MILITARY!!! Some say the primary is larger than 10 and others say not, some say the secondary is smaller than 10 and other say not.:cookoo: I am soooo confused.....
The original (military) Primary fuel filter is 40 microns. It's more of a water trap with filter for large particles. It operates at a low pressure of about 8 psi from the in-tank fuel pump.

The Secondary and Final fuel filters (Purolator/Facet #053161-04) are 5 microns and operates at a higher pressure (50-60psi) from the boost pump on the IP.

I use Carquest #86540 for my Secondary and Finals. It is rated 6 microns.
 

Stretch44875

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I use a 3512, and 3540. 3540 is a 6 micron, 3512 is 10. I think the secondaries are setup in series, just install the 3512 in the first one, then 3540 in the second.
 

gimpyrobb

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Yup, or you could run different size filters for each can. (3511)40m primary, (3512) 12m secondary, and (3540) 6m final.
 

Tlauden

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Halifax Pennsylvania
so if i were to change the filters, i really only should need to change the one, where the other one just catches what the first filter may not.... correct? I believe the names are casted on the filter base, "secondary" and "final".

oops.. didnt know that:shock:aua

As to filtering prior vs. the truck filtering, IMHO its much easier to change a filter out in the open on my filter rig than to crawl under the truck to change the primary. That was a pain to change the three deuce filters and would hate to change them while holding up rush hour traffic.

I guess in the end its 100% up to you what you decide to do.... maybe if you decide to use the truck to filter you can install better rated filters in a more convenient spot, just saying, not sure if that would even work
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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Location
North/west Indiana
The Secondary and Final fuel filters (Purolator/Facet #053161-04) are 5 microns and operates at a higher pressure (50-60psi) from the boost pump on the IP.

I use Carquest #86540 for my Secondary and Finals. It is rated 6 microns.

Thanks for that info, I thought I saw somewhere that the secondary/final was smaller but with the filter # I kept getting and it being 10 I was confused.

stretch44875-I use a 3512, and 3540. 3540 is a 6 micron, 3512 is 10. I think the secondaries are setup in series, just install the 3512 in the first one, then 3540 in the second.

That sounds like what I will do, I'll just use the 3512's for the secondary and get some 3540's for the finals.

As to using the truck to filter........That is why I was going to put all easy to change and get to filters and change them regularly so as to not have to be on the road and change them.

Thanks for all the input guys!!
 
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