headlights. no low beam but hi beam works??

[rjinga]

Yes - two blue lights at the top of the speedo - if yours does not light you might need to check the bulb under the dash.

Are the blue lights connected to the wiper lever in some way? Normally you would pull back on the wiper lever which actuates the dimmer switch and turns on the hi beams. I've cut that whole process out of the loop by plugging the connection directly into a foot switch.

 

[lavarok]

RE: no click or non functioning switch - something else to check:

The hi/lo and ignition switches can be adjusted slightly, maybe the screws came loose and its pushed to far down the column to "click". Loosen the screws ( 8mm hex head ) and adjust.

If not, other posters covered the basics.

 

[WARWAG]

Sounds like the switch is either out of adjustment or just wore out completely. Mine is about to get on the last train West. When it does I will just order a complete new unit and install it. I like how they work on the column. Glad you now have Hi beams.

 

[rjinga]

Sounds like the switch is either out of adjustment or just wore out completely. Mine is about to get on the last train West. When it does I will just order a complete new unit and install it. I like how they work on the column. Glad you now have Hi beams.

I'd rather have it work at the column too. I did a test drive last night - reaching down and clicking the dangling foot switch by hand. Not fun.

I'm going to check the adjustment first. Any good threads, preferably with photos?

 

[lavarok]

Its pretty straight forward. You can get to the bolts with a small wrench without dropping the column. A small ratchet may also fit.

If you decide to change the switch without dropping the column, use a piece of tape to secure the metal push rod. Trying to get it back in place if it drops out is a PITA. It can be done, but you'll be cursing unless lucky.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I'm going to check the adjustment first. Any good threads, preferably with photos?

What do you need pictures for? You just replaced the switch yesterday. You have to make sure that the rod fully activates the switch. There's nothing to show that you haven't seen, intimately.

 

[Warthog]

I'd rather have it work at the column too. I did a test drive last night - reaching down and clicking the dangling foot switch by hand. Not fun.

I'm going to check the adjustment first. Any good threads, preferably with photos?

The TM 9-2320-289-20 Tech Manual, Section 4-13 has pictures.

Did you check to see if the rod itself was moving? The turn signal only pushes the rod. The switch on the bottom side of the column controls all the electic.

You can remove the switch, hook it up and test it manually. There should be a click to switch from low to high.

The High beam light is also controlled by this switch.

 

[rjinga]

Ok, I replaced the hi/low beam switch - no hi beams; I replaced the headlights (read good things about the Silverstars, so I'd have done it anyway) - no hi beams; I unplugged the connection and plugged it into a foot switch - HI BEAMS!

Crude but effective.

The Final Chapter - I was back at the part's store, talking to a different associate about the column switch. He said the "click" should come from the switch itself and I can swap it for another one. Go home, take off switch, come back later. Turns out my first switch worked fine, once you remove the packing brace There weren't any instructions with the switch, and apparently the associate who sold me the part in the first place didn't know about removing the brace either.

Soooooo, after removing the original bad switch, installing new switch #1 (with brace), buying foot switch, removing new switch #1, returning new switch #1 and foot switch, installing new switch #2 without brace - TA DA!

 

[badassissimo]

The Final Chapter - I was back at the part's store, talking to a different associate about the column switch. He said the "click" should come from the switch itself and I can swap it for another one. Go home, take off switch, come back later. Turns out my first switch worked fine, once you remove the packing brace There weren't any instructions with the switch, and apparently the associate who sold me the part in the first place didn't know about removing the brace either.

Soooooo, after removing the original bad switch, installing new switch #1 (with brace), buying foot switch, removing new switch #1, returning new switch #1 and foot switch, installing new switch #2 without brace - TA DA!

lol. Sorry. Couldn't let that one go. Honestly though, been there.

 

[rjinga]

lol. Sorry. Couldn't let that one go. Honestly though, been there.

Don't feel bad, I stood in the part's store and literally laughed out loud myself. What else can you do.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I'm going to bump this thread because it covers my problem.

Things done in the last few thousand miles:
1) replaced dimmer switch on the column;
2) Sylvania superstars installed; and
3) HD Relay from LMC installed.

Symptoms:
1) Marker lights/turn signals work;
2) Low beams do not work - both went out at the same time;
3) High beams work;
4) High beam indicator on dash works;
5) Dash lights work; and
6) Dimmer for dash and lower cab light work.

It's going to be a good deal below zero tonight, so I'm planning on my trouble shooting to minimize my time in the cold.

My plan:
1) Check connections at the lights;
2) Check the dimmer switch; and
3) Look for a loose ground at the lights.

Thoughts:
I think the dimmer switch is working because the high beam indicator light on the dash comes on. I don't think the low beams burned out because they both went out at the same exact time and they are really new. I don't think it is a ground because the the high beams work. There is only one plug in the LMC kit to each light. I don't think it's the low beam relay because it is literally only a month or two old.

I thought it might be the actual lights switch, but then I don't understand why the dimming function and cab light would work, along with high beams.

Any suggestions on where to start given the above?

I've read the CUCV headlight circuit diagrams, but not sure what order to start my testing. I have a DVM, but don't have a test light right now.

Thanks in advance.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Just spent some time with the DMM. Bottom line is that the appropriate wires to the headlamp socket at the lamp are getting 12v when they are supposed to. This leads me to only one conclusion that the low beam bulbs/filaments blew out.

That seems strange to me that they would both go out at the same time and under so few hours of use. But perhaps I've been driving with one light out for awhile and didn't know it. Will install new headlamps and report back. Anyone have any suggestions besides Sylvanias?

For further reference:

Yellow wire from headlight knob goes to the dimmer switch. From dimmer switch tan goes to low beams, light green to high beams. If you are using the LMC relay setup, the yellow wire controls the low beams, blue controls the high beams.