HELP!!! M1009 won't start AFTER replacing starter...

[fmcdh]

Like the title says, I replaced the starter with a 28MT 10 tooth starter which was listed as compatible w/ M1009. The reason I did is that the old one was "slow" when it was trying to crank, I was told that the 24V starters do that instead of just start clicking when they go bad. Well I tried to start it with the new starter and it started on the 3rd try, but still sounded "slow". Then I let it run a bit, tried again and it started right up but again sounded "slow". Let it cool off while I ran to the auto parts store and when I came back and tried to start it up it sounded "slow" and would NOT catch, then tried again and got a clicking sound after a couple of "slow" attempts.

Glow plugs are new within the last 2 months as well, but that shouldn't make it sound like that anyway. Fuses are all fine.

Batteries are both good, one is 13.2V and other is 12.2V, terminals look good to me, connecters @ the starter did NOT appear corroded to me. Solenoid is new as well.

When the truck DID start it runs GREAT, Engine sounds GREAT so I don't think its a problem with the Engine.

I'm lost!!! Any ideas????

 

[Red_506]

Just because you have voltage doesn't mean you have amperage. Have batts tested.

 

[kevin-m1008]

I would check and do the following:
1. Clean and wire brush the battery terminals and battery connectors. There are special battery tools for this. that cost like 5 bucks at most auto part stores.
2. While doing this replace any cable(s) that are not is excellent shape. No cracks in the insulation, no green powder around the connections etc...
3. Have batteries load tested
4. If nothing else the new starter can have an issue also

 

[Recovry4x4]

Load test the batts first. Will most likely save you some work.

 

[mistaken1]

My money is on the 12.2v battery being bad or at least not being charged correctly when the engine is running.

 

[dstang97]

I am willing to bet you replaced it with a Chinese starter, but load test your batteries and go from there.

 

[rickf]

If the batteries come up good the do a voltage drop test on the cables. Also check the engine ground. If the engine ground is dirty or loose then all of the return voltage will be trying to go through linkages and cables not associated with current flow.

Rick

 

[davidkroberts]

just asking but you did replace it with a 24v starter didnt you? I dont know what will happen if you threw a 12v on a 24v hotwire but it cant be good.

1. make sure your alternators are putting out proper voltage and amps. It is also possible (but unlikely) that a bad altenator is putting such a resistance on the belts its making the engine drag..... happened to me so dont laugh, 1 AC compressor, 1 altenator, drove us nuts until we figured it out.

2. most likely its a bad rebuilt starter or a bad connection.

Get a multimeter if you dont have one..... this probably isnt the last time your going to need it on a CUCV

 

[redline300]

I have an M1009 and had issues similar. Make sure the amps coming from the alt are high enough. I found that 12 and 13 volts weren't where my batteries needed to be...more like 14.45. Check and see if the alt is pulling amps and how much..both when the truck is off and when it is running(if you are able to get it jump started). After having my alt tested TWICE and both times I was told it was working perfectly....when in fact it was not. So I replaced the alt and whaddayaknow....everything worked and the k5 started and has been running wonderfully!!

 

[doghead]

Please add your State to your location information. This is a site requirement.

 

[Matt1031]

Like the title says, I replaced the starter with a 28MT 10 tooth starter which was listed as compatible w/ M1009. The reason I did is that the old one was "slow" when it was trying to crank, I was told that the 24V starters do that instead of just start clicking when they go bad. Well I tried to start it with the new starter and it started on the 3rd try, but still sounded "slow". Then I let it run a bit, tried again and it started right up but again sounded "slow". Let it cool off while I ran to the auto parts store and when I came back and tried to start it up it sounded "slow" and would NOT catch, then tried again and got a clicking sound after a couple of "slow" attempts.

Glow plugs are new within the last 2 months as well, but that shouldn't make it sound like that anyway. Fuses are all fine.

Batteries are both good, one is 13.2V and other is 12.2V, terminals look good to me, connecters @ the starter did NOT appear corroded to me. Solenoid is new as well.

When the truck DID start it runs GREAT, Engine sounds GREAT so I don't think its a problem with the Engine.

I'm lost!!! Any ideas????

Fully charged batts should read 12.6 to 12.7 volts
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/battery diagnosis.pdf

anything under 12.4 needs to be charged before you can even test it. The 12.2 is probably junk.
I don't know how you got a 13.2v reading off one batt, unless you're reading it with a float charger connected or with a defective/inaccurate meter. It's just not a valid reading unless you tested it almost immediately after removing the charger.

Pull both batts, fully charge them (most auto parts stores will do it for free if you don't have a charger) then load test them. You need *known* good batteries (fully charged and load tested) and spotlessly clean and tight terminal connections before you can accurately diagnose charging and/or starter problems.

 

[Warthog]

Even in the Tech Manuals it clearly states before diagnosing any electrical problem, you must fully charge and load test your batteries.

 

[deuceaid]

Just because you have voltage doesn't mean you have amperage. Have batts tested.

voltage UNDERload is what you need to know.....bad batts can read good on voltage all day long