J pipe replacement on a deuce?

[rfischba1]

Anyone have any tips for replacing the J pipe on a M 35 A2 duce, mine is rotted out at the bottom. What tools are rquired, do I need a heat to rmmove the old pipe?
Thanks

 

[rdixiemiller]

RE: J pipe replacement on a duce?

Usually pretty easy. There is a band clamp at the turbo flex pipe, a hanger under the fender, then the external stuff. Desdert Rat and I pulled off 2 complete exhausts at Howards in 30 minutes, didn't even have any penentrant spray. Broke a couple of hanger bolts, normal hardware store stuff.

 

[bigbee]

j-pipe

Pretty straight forward replacement- The one thing I did to my deuce tractor before I sold it. Mine has a whistler turbo, but it should be about the same.
To make it a little easier:
1 remove the air cleaner
2 pull the inner fender off
3 pull the flex pipe off the exhaust and stretch it "a little"
4 loosely clamp the new pipe in place so you can wiggle the new pipe and the flex pipe onto the exhaust and clamp
5 oh, yeah, the filler plate on the fender will be the first thing off and the last thing on.

 

[rfischba1]

RE: j-pipe

Thanks a lot, I 'll need to wait til the weather warms up for this project.

 

[acetomatoco]

RE: j-pipe

mo fun in the cold snow and wind.. I did the one on my 800 series.....at zero degrees F... and the worst part was the spring loaded bolts on the upper support....but the experience was part of my education....after all I am only 64 years old...ACE

 

[devilman96]

RE: j-pipe

If you can spare the cash get a new SS pipe from Saturn...

 

[Trango]

RE: j-pipe

I welded a new patch of metal over my rusted J pipe.... I bent and kerfed out some pipe that matched the OD... and welded it on with some fluxcore. It looked nasty when I put it on, but then I cleaned up the welds and shot it with flat black, and it doesn't look so bad.

 

[builder77]

RE: j-pipe

rfischba1 if you replace your rotted J pipe can I have it? I am trying to obtain a bad pipe that I can use for testing noise reduction of mufflers and baffles.

 

[ah1955]

J pipe replacement on a deuce

I went the repair route also, bought a prebent 90 degree elbow and a 3 1/2 I.D. X 3 1/2 O.D. connector I forget how long, most parts houses can get different langth so you can get into good pipe with your joints also got a stack turn out becouse the tip of my stack was all rotted off. All told the three pieces cost me about $50.00.
Made a jig out of scrape peice of plywood for a base and pieces of 2X4 and drywall screws to keep distance between the J-pipe the same and the angle between the inlet and outlet true measured and marked then cut the old out and fitted the new pieces in had my buddy at work mig weld everthing up then I cleaned up the welds, spray painted the pipes with about two coats dull black high temp stove paint, with the flex pipe and the turbo clamp loose you have room to be off alittle and everthing still fits and looks good.
How ever you go when you are done use something to cover the stack so water does not get in when not in use. I use a 1/2 gal. plastic milk jug the inside dimention seems to fit smug and have not had it blowen off yet.

 

[rfischba1]

RE: J pipe replacement on a deuce

Gos Idea, Il'll do that.
Thanks

 

[houdel]

I did the same as AH1955, got a couple of 3-1/2" ID x 3-1/2" OD elbows and a 3-1/2" ID x 3-1/2 ID connector and a fistfull of clamps and replaced the bottom of my J pipe. It was an economically feasible project until I realized I needed the second elbow because the elbow section of pipe coming down from the turbo was also rotted out.

I probably could have bought a new steel "J" pipe for what I invested in parts, but by the time I realized I needed the second elbow I was already in too deep and had to go with the repair.

I used regular muffler "U" clamps which are somewhat ugly, were I to do it over again I'd go with the flat band clamps which are relatively unnoticeable. At least if I have another rot out, I'll probably only have to change out the bottom connector which was only about $12.

I use a 2 liter pop bottle with the neck cut off to keep water out of the exhaust pipe. Following are pics of my repair, I ground down all the old metal with a wire brush on a 4" angle grinder and refinished everything with 1200F high temp exhaust paint, the job ended up looking quite good, except for the muffler clamps which I will probably replace with the flat band clamps eventually.

 

[466Navastar]

how about welding the pipes together and putting the ugly clamps back in stock?

 

[oddshot]

I did the same as AH1955, got a couple of 3-1/2" ID x 3-1/2" OD elbows and a 3-1/2" ID x 3-1/2 ID connector and a fistfull of clamps and replaced the bottom of my J pipe.

I went the DIY route myself ... except I replaced both elbows ...

Using a sawzall, I cut the old system ... and fitted the new parts with the system installed IN the truck.

Then to hold everything where I wanted it ... I screwed in a couple 1/8 self-tapping screws at every joint. These screws do a good job at holding everything in place so the pipes don't twist or pull apart

Then I pulled the pipe out and welded it all together. I used no clamps at all.

I ground down the welds a bit and put a coat of hi-temp flat black on it. Looks and sounds great.

My total costs was about $65.00 and an afternoon of work.

oddshot



BTW ... before you start a project like this ... its a good idea to find all the rotted and soft spots in the system. There is always more rot then you think hiding under what looks like a good spot from the outside.

You do this by tapping on the pipes with a metal object like a screwdriver or wrench ... a rotted spot will sound dull when you hit it. Also press on the pipe with your fingers and poke around a bit with an ice-pick.

If you don't get all the rot found and cut out ... the whole project could be a bust.

Its kinda like putting a patch on old wineskins.